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About Black4DR

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    Rank: RB20DET

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  • Car(s)
    R32 20DET 4Dr
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  1. I removed the tacho in my R33. Then went around the circut board with a soldering iron and resoldered all connections ( they looked fine before hand ) Problem solved.
  2. still has the cover mate, and all of the little metal spacers are still in the rubbers. Really dont know why it does it..... I can get a new wheel and pick up for a few hundred bucks..
  3. Pretty certain my CAS is poked. But i want to see if anyone has encountered this problem before... When Im setting my timing, everything is algood until i start tightening the three bolts up. Everythings mint till the bolts just start to touch the spring washers. Then the timing jumps from 15 degrees to tdc. Its not even a gradual change like what normally happens sometimes. Its like someone flicking a switch!! And it changes while I drive. at times the cars gutless and pops out the exhaust between gears, other times it goes mint... The engine is a Rb20det.
  4. Black4DR

    Nz Revisited

    Our rego is only like $300 a year though..
  5. Well I checked everything off on my list, making some decent power pre tune. Luched two gearboxes and a diff haha Run a 14.2 @104mph. Would have done better but a lost 5th so had to pull the pin. New box and a tune will see me in the 13's
  6. I took the guts out of my idle control and put a small manual lpg power valve (like a tap) in the line to the idle control. All sorted now.
  7. Look out for white marks too, they indicate the spark arcing to earth. Check the plugs while your at it. The earth and the electrode should have nice sharp edges, not rounded. If the plugs look old replace them anyway. Cheap plugs are fine, stick to big brands like NGK and champion. Dont bother with iridiums
  8. Could be as simple as needing new plugs lol Detonating is basically the fuel/air exploding. Smashes pistons and rings.... The technical term for detonation as "two flame fronts colliding". It can be cause by improper fuel miXture or preignition. Preignition is when the fuel ignites before its suppose to.
  9. Sounds like a weak coil. Probably spark breaking down in the high rev range. I hope for your engines sake its not detonating. Mine would clink when it was doing this.
  10. Was the nut loose? If no look somewhere else mate. Something has worn out. Take it to a garage and ask for an opinion. They shouldn't charge if they think they might get a job out of it. I think it's either UJs, CV or diff back lash. It could be anything really. I had a Subaru at work that was making a clunk noise on rough ground. Believe it or not it was the brake pads were loose in the caliper and were jumping up and down. The point I'm trying to make is it could really be anything and unless you have dicked with something tighting all of the bolts in the world isn't going to solve your issue. And if it is a loose bolt thank you lucky stars your drive shaft hasn't dropped Out...
  11. My commy did this when the cv in the drive shaft was worn
  12. Thanks, I have no idea. It's yet to be dynod and tuned, but it goes like a cut cat. It was as fast as my mates 25DET but his wasn't Running right haha. Thanks I Will try that, I recently cleaned the boost tee and now its stable as. Was full of black gunk and would hit 15 pound and creep back to 13psi etc. Good now though! Goes to show how much of an impact that black stuff makes.
  13. I always just tuck them close to the pod filter. They don't have to be in the intake. So long as its sensing the same air around the filter should be fine. Unless someone can tell me the filter changes the air temp lol.
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