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EvilINGT

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Posts posted by EvilINGT

  1. Hey dude

    R33 GTR original parts can replace the WHOLE front end. I know some people use just the bumper, but it wont give the wide look your after. I believe you will need all parts that make up the front end of the GTR ie guards, front bumper, reo, lights, and bonnet, maybe even the bonnet hinges.

    As for the rear end, R33 GTR 4 Door was made by Autech, the rear 1/4 panels and doors are custom. I think a guy named Ernest Parry once did a 33 Sedan to 33 GTR sedan conversion. Apparently there are a couple floating around OZ.

    If you want it slightly wider and subtle, the best i can suggest is custom hand flaring/pumping of the guards, that way the amount of extra width is up to you and you can also fit wider wheels :rofl: (as opposed to "bolt-on flares"), probably cheaper than sourcing Autech parts too.

    cheers

    Evil

  2. Damn, mine just started freaking out today. Drive to bank, fine. Come out of bank, turn car on and tacho freaks out. Reads approx 1500 RPM higher than normal idle and movement, and is not steady but moves around erratically up or down 100-200 RPM. Would love to know a fix for this.

    SII Manual Turbo

    cheers

    Evil

  3. Yeah, i saw this car sitting there last Monday, sitting on the train on my way to Rotto (via ferry) as well. Very distinctive even at that distance. This makes it the 3rd ive seen in WA in 2 months. The other two being the Fabcar ones, 1 sitting in the dealership across from Skippers and the other sitting on a hoist at Cannington Autowholesale about a month ago.

    Wish id had my camera with me all 3 times :rofl:.

  4. Had this happen to me, a bit of the exhaust wheel chipped/came off and unbalanced the shaft, so was the lovely sound of the bearings eating themselves :P, i didnt want to accerlerate anywhere, so embarassing. Lucky i had already bought a GCG R34 highflow for $2k off the SAU forums :D, it even came with braided lines plus all the other bits.

    cheers

    Evil

  5. Just did my parcel shelf today with Dynamat, all the rattles and squeaks are gone :laugh:, One wedge pack managed to do most of it, i didnt cover every single part of the shelf, but will when i get some more Dynamat. There was some left over but im about to tackle my front doors, so i dont want to run out and the odd shapes might come in handy. Should of taken a pic, will post it up when i move my splits to the rear and put my new ones in the front.

    cheers

    Evil

  6. Good point about the speakers. I have CDT 6.5 Splits up front and Alpine Type R Coaxials in the back running off a Lanzar Amp. I find as long as you have the ability to adjust the volume on your sub/s then turning the volume down is not so much an issue. I am frequently reaching for the sub control as i listen to a range of different music styles. Im lucky my headunit can control the bass, as well as having the volume control for my sub up front. I imagine sound deading your boot would do a lot to keep the bass "in cabin", (warning off topic) which is something i will doing soon, as my next upgrade is a set of Hertz Mille MLK2 up front, move my CDTs to the parcel shelf and run the 4 speakers off a 4 Channel Amp, looking at the Audison Vrx 4.300. Also wouldnt a 12in sub be able to still move more air at a lower volume?

    cheers

    Evil

  7. I have a CDT 12" sub in the boot tucked into the drivers side corner, very small im pretty sure my ICE guy said it was 1.2 cubic foot enclosure. Not 100% sure, but i believe this is about the smallest enclosure you can put this sub into. Awesome sound quality without too much big boomy bass, im pretty sure it would be a lot louder with a bigger enclosure though. BTW it runs of a single DD 1000W Amp, enough kick for 2 of these subs.

    Just look for a sub that does what you want, check the specs you would be surprised the kind of enclosures that some subs require.

    http://cdtaudio.com/testreport_2.htm a review of the sub on the CDT website

    post-11434-1187249723_thumb.jpg

    cheers

    Evil

  8. Bought my SII Sedan at autoworx. Paul was a good guy to deal with, kept the shop open for me after hours to come in, as i flew down from Broome that day. Hope you keep up the good service and rep.

    Yeah and start complying 1998 JZX100s, and i might buy my next car from Autoworx :thumbsup:

    good luck

    Evil

  9. Doing about 90Kp/h on the highway :(. Yeah it looks kinda odd, but i guess at least you cant see the cable ties holding it on anymore :P, or the hole from rubbing on the tyre. Im more worried about the "splash tray" under the engine that i ripped off on a curb.

    Usually if you can give them the part number they will at least try to find it for you, at least the Nissan dealership in Broome does.

    cheers

    Evil

  10. I got rid of my ciggy lighter, and placed my boost controller (Turbosmart E-Boost 2 60mm) there. Cut the hole out with a dremel then smoothed it with sandpaper. I use my ashtray for coin storage :P, I run the power for the boost controller directly from the ciggy lighter plug. I moved the plug for the lighter to the centre console bin, using the cap style one. The only problem is i cant see the BC when in 1st, 3rd or 5th, but no big for me as the Eboost has audible overboost alarm, plus i am modding the dash with the optional eboost warning/shift light kit.

    Can get and post a pic if you need clarification.

    cheers

    Evil

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