Shaun

Thanks for that; interesting read. So a bit of toe in, and around half a degree of negative camber (for my application). I dont fully get castor yet, so ill have to read more. I wasnt aware that there was castor adjustment on my skyline; not that ive ever looked for it though. Shaun.

Thanks for you input. I really wish i understood how the different suspension geometrys affected the cars ability to put power down. I understand that the car squats and that negative camber becomes greater when squating, but i dont understand how toe in/out or caster affects it. Anyone know of any sites i can view to get a better idea? I feel stoopid.

Why would a larger slave make the problem worse? I thought the Nismo item might provide more movement or something, but i really dont know. I havent had a look under there yet; ill have a look and get back to you. Im hoping i can adjust the clutch pedal and all will be ok, but the car has had some heavy single plates in it through out its evolution, so it is possible that they have taken their toll on the pedal box. Hope not though. Shaun.

Thanks guys, i think the search button is working now. Shaun.

This is the best forum ever!! Thanks for the info. Ill give that a try before i spend more coin. Shaun.

Thanks for the reminder Duncan! +1 for faster server too. UAS sell them for $120 which isnt too bad. Now for another question. Is it a worthwhile upgrade to get the Nismo larger slave cylinder rather than a stock replacement one? I think the Nismo ones are about $80 or $90 extra. Thanks again, Shaun.

How do you do that? Is there a thread on the pedal under there or something? Shaun.

I actually dont know if he added timing at all; im just assuming that he did, as the other tune was to run the brand new engine in and i suppose it would be a conservative tune. Looking at how straight my other exhaust is, i dont really think there would have been restriction in that either! Shaun.

Fcuk i love this forum! Half an hour and ive got a definative answer. Remind me to make a donation! Thanks guys, Shaun.

Ok. Thanks mate, ill have a look at it. Shaun.

Hey, has anyone else noticed that the sau site is really really slow. It took about 10 minutes to load on my computer, and sometimes it doesnt connect at all. Are there still technical problems with the new server, or is my computer fcuked?

Hi, I just bled my clutch because im having disengagement problems, and was wondering if i can remove this distribution (?) block that is situated in line between the master and slave cylinders. Then i could just have a braided clutch line made up that runs from the master cylinder directly to the slave cylinder. Surely this would be better for pedal feel and be easier to bleed. Also, i wouldnt mind knowing what its for before i remove it altogether. See the pic below; its the funny black box that has a bleed nipple on it and lines running into and out of it. Also, does anyone know of people who would make a braided line that runs from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder? Thanks, Shaun

^^^^^What does that mean? Shaun.

I just got under my car and there is only one line going from the brake booster to the rear. It then splits to each rear wheel via a distribution block, so i suppose you'd just install it in the single line before the distribution block. Its a very small diameter line though, so it would be pretty difficult to flare, but certainly possible. Ill include a pic of the distribution block. Note the single line going into the block, then the two other lines going to each rear wheel. Shaun.

Yeah, mine has ABS. I just got under the sar, and there is only one line going from the front to the rear, then it splits to each wheel via a distribution block. Ill upload a pic of this block. Good to know. Its a very small diameter line to flare though; i wonder how hard it is to install. Shaun.

Its the centre muffler that makes the difference, and custom is the only way to go if you want to maintain the 3.5 or 4 inch diameter. Scott put the rear magnaflow on first (with my old exhaust's centre section), and he said that it did make a big difference , but the centre muffler really quietened it down the most. The Kakimoto is in 3 inch only, so i suppose youve gotta decide on size. It depends on how much power youve got.

It was a trust exhaust. Its for sale if you want it! Lol. Scott at Gosford performance exhausts and intercoolers made the exhaust. I think he's just closed the business, but he's still doing mobile stuff and has a factory by in Gosford. Not sure what he calls himself now; something to do with race cars. If your interested, i can certainly arrange details to be traded. Shaun.

Hi, There is a group buy going for the B&M line lock kits, and i was just wondering if any of the drag racers out there have installed them in a skyline. The reason im asking, is because a place i was going to buy one off ages ago said that i'd need two kits to make it work on a skyline. I dont really understand why, but it turned me off the purchase. I just wanted to confirm whether this is correct, and ask where on the car have people installed the solenoid and cut the brake line. Its kinda related to forced induction. Thanks, Shaun.

Ground clearance is about 110mm.

Im interested to know that as well. Ill get it tested and see how it goes. Whats legal again? 92db @ 75% of engine redline rpm. Is that right? Shaun.

Ok, ive just spent the last few hours searching, but havent found anything definative, so heres my problem: Im having clutch disengagement issues; when i coast up to a set of lights or a roundabout and put my foot on the clutch to put it in neutral, the gearstick doesnt want to disengage from the selected gear. I have to force it out the gear and the car wants to still lurch forward as if the clutch is still slightly engaged. Also, if i dont FULLY depress the clutch into the carpet, its usually quite difficult to select 3rd and 4th gear unless the engine and gearbox revs are exact. This has only started hapening the last few days. Its an R33 gtst gearbox behind an rb26 in an r32 gtst. The clutch is brand new, the slave cylinder is as old as the gearbox (no idea), and the master cylinder is an original item as far as i know. I havent bled the clutch yet either. Im hoping the slave is not pushing the fork thingy in far enough, as that would be the cheapest fix. Oh, and im also interested in getting a Nismo bigger slave cylinder. Is this a worthwhile thing to do?? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Shaun.

Thats right. I was originally going to go with two of the magnaflow mufflers, but i really wanted to have maximum noise supression, and the slight offset of the perforated tube in the centre muffler is apparently the best way to achieve this without loss of power. Roy, I didnt weigh it, as im not concerned about weight at all. Shaun.

Yeah, i find it difficult to explain, but i just know that i had a look at a line lock kit previously, and found that i needed two kits in order to make it work. Im not saying that im 100% correct, but i wouldnt mind confirmation that you definately only need one and where the kit is best installed. Also, do the hard lines have to be flared? As soon as i know these things, ill transfer the money! Can anyone shed some light? Thanks, Shaun.

Just to update, i got the final tune done yesterday and had the closed loop cruise initiated. The car made 350.5rwkw @ 17psi, but more importantly, i gained 76Nm of torque which is really noticable on the road. The old and new dyno sheets are below. Im pretty happy with that, Shaun.

Hi, I recently posted a question about finding a non restrictive exhaust that will support 350 plus Kw and be quiet at the same time. Those in the know told me the answer was the custom route, so i started my research. Im letting you all know this because i know that there are alot of people out there who could benefit from this info. I previously had a jap brand 3.5 inch exhaust that was over 100db @ 5000rpm, and it bought out all the rattles in the car and droned like a bitch. Very non restrictive, but a bit to loud for me. I should mention that this is on a single turbo RB26 with large (1.06ar) turbine housing, so for those of you with twins, it will be much much easier to control excessive noise, and the above exhaust would probably be fine. Anyway, i discovered a great exhaust bloke at Gosford and we set about designing this system. I got Hi-Tech in Bathurst to make my centre muffler which is about 5x8x12 inches, and is offset in/centre out in design. It uses 3.5 inch perforated tube through the guts. It was $360 custom made in stainless. The rear muffler is a Magnaflow Race Series item, and is a 5x8 oval and 12 inches long. Its centre in/centre out and uses 3.5 inch perforated tube straight through. The product code is 14151 on the Magnaflow website. Its awesome quality and was about $330. We used 3.5 inch stainless piping and the sound supression is amazing; no drone, deep thoaty sound; cops wouldnt even notice you. It would definately be legal, although i havent had it tested yet. For $950 cat back, im stoked. Ive got a Metal cat 4 inch catilytic converter and the screamer plumbed into the exhaust. Ive got another front pipe though which allows the screamer to be vented to atmosphere. I can confirm no loss in power compared to the jap system, as i had the final tune yesterday and, with no changes except the exhaust, the car gained 5rwkw and 76Nm of torque. Actually, the tuner probably added a bit of timing which would mix things up a bit, but the exhaust certainly didnt restrict things. Anyway, just thought id let those who care know that it is possible to build a non restrictive, free flowing exhaust. Ive added some pics and before and after dyno sheets. Ive gotta put a polished 4 inch stainless tip on the rear muffler yet, but ill do that this week. I suppose its not a DIRECT comparison due to those possible timing changes and boost control set up, but i still think its pretty good. Sorry for the long post, Shaun.