SkudR33
-
Posts
534 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by SkudR33
-
-
...rattling noise was that has been annoying the shit out of me, which turned out to be 3 pens and $4.30 change inside my door [emoji53]
Hahahah -
Yeh may aswell just swap it over... then you can also rip apart the old one and find out exactly what your problem was!
Good luck with it all.-
1
-
-
Dude can I just ask did you have piston at tdc when you did the leakdown test? Did you also make sure the engine is at operating temperature. You do realise if the valves in the head are open it will give you a false reading...
If you did do the test correctly, you gotta understand no engine will have 0% leak because an engine needs to allow crank case pressure to escape. Crankcase pressure travels to your dipstick, oil filler cap, pvc and any other head drains which may be present. On average most engines leak between 5-10% of the air which is compressed into the cylinder. You really need to have a gauge that tells you how much air is leaking out. If you find you are leaking more than 10% but below 20% it just means engine has some wear on it however once you start passing mid 20's it means you got a major problem.
You need to redo the test and get the actual percentage of loss which is occurring... unfortunately if you did the test correctly and you have a 30% leak going through the cap and dipstick it means you got piston landing or ring issues... -
I started playing it again after 3 years... can't get past rank gold nova1. I've noticed it's really random, I have games where I ace and then 10 minutes later I find myself anchoring.
Alias is skudbrah -
a litre per 300 is a bit much. Hope its just valve stem seals
It sounds extreme right - I'd imagine they'd be smoke pouring out everywhere and it would be catastrophic! -
Welcome dude - there's a wealth of knowledge on these forums.. make sure you use the search function regularly and if you still find yourself caught up do not hesitate to ask for advice!
-
I'd put my dollars on valve stem seals then cause your compression numbers aren't bad enough to be blowing oil out your exhaust... also note that if results are unchanged between wet/dry compression test it generally means rings are not your problem... sometimes valve seating can cause a drop in compression. That's another whole issue to worry about but should not result in burnt oil!
Plus you just changed turbo and a little bit of shaft play shouldn't be causing any issues like what you're explaining...
Dude one other thing, make sure your pcv isn't seized up... it really assists in lowering crank case pressure when the manifold is in vacuum. It's an easy thing to look at while you wait to do a leak down test!
-
If you blowing oil on deceleration, especially down them big ass hills it generally tends to lean towards blown turbo or valve stem seals...
If blowing oil on cold start it could be cracked ringlanding or bad valve stem seals...
If you blowing oil on hard acceleration it could be rings, ringlanding or turbo seals...
It's honestly such a flamin mongrel to find the issue...
Steps to resolve this:
1. Both dry and wet compression test.
2. Leakdown test.
3. Check turbo for shaft play.
From my personal experiences, I had blue smoke on cold start and under high boost/rpm application. Lasted 12 months and my engine crapped itself- turned out I had a small hairline crack in the ringlanding which developed to a catastrophic crack.
If you are from West Sydbey, I can refer you to the guy I used to work for - he has a fetish for jap cars!
-
I had same issue - they all rubbish not mention the fact they all start falling apart and coolant leaks out of the wicks... it's virtually impossible to find a decent kit that covers all the hoses you need to replace!
-
It's easy dude! Look up the m80 installation manual then work backwards to disconnect it all. If you learn how it all works you'll know how easy it is to remove...
-
Going out on a limb here... I had the exact same issue. Turned out I had a faulty injector. Test resistance in the injectors... look through my profile and you'll find a post I've written up on it. I had similar issues to you... car would sound like dog balls on idle and under high load I had a small misfire that I couldn't notice without looking at afr's
-
If you twist 9 and 46 it should bypass the ECU and it still retains the use of the A/C button on your console.... ive done the same thing to my car!
-
You gotta get somebody to have a proper look at it... if wiring to the original ecu has not been damaged (including interior and engine bay) it should run fine. I think it'd be very difficult for somebody to give you a solid answer online.
Where you from? Maybe somebody close by can give you a hand!!!
-
Were they second hand? Did they get cleaned/tested? Never seen trouble like that with jecs 550s, saying that if you're buying now go with top feeds for sure
I bought them of a club member, they were practically brand new. He had the original receipts and paperwork. He had bought them from a supplier in Perth who claimed they were flow matched within 2%.
I got them cleaned and tested before I installed them. The spray pattern was awful and the injectors were not flow matched within 2% error like they promise. I seriously replaced them with a top feed setup a month after I had them installed! -
I tried JECS 550's - it was shithouse. Tuner was so angry and the car just idled like a bush pig. I chucked the whole lot out and went top feed setup.
Take my word for it and don't waste your money on a side feed setup! -
I got mine running in good condition 2 years ago for about $200
-
Starter motor did that to me in my Camry. Something went faulty in there and it was grounding 24/7 and draining my battery...
-
-
Dot is to face the front of the engine (ie towards the water pump)
-
Could be rubbing on the timing belt cover. Mine did the same.
Front top cover isn't on... Can I ask did the residue it was creating feel tacky sticky. Like I couldn't get the black shit of my hands without giving them a decent scrub in mechanics soap.
It could possibly be rubbing on the bottom cover or on one of the bearings...
Thanks for the opinions! Really trying to get as much info as I can before I replace the timing kit.
-
Do a warm dry and wet compression test. Also do a leak down test.
If you're saying it's coming straight from the exhaust ports then I would definitely say it's got nothing to do with your turbo unless it's leaking through the seal into the compressor side!
Also check your breather setup - make sure your pcv isn't blocked or any parts of your crankcase ventilation setup!
-
1
-
-
Wasn't sprayed with TAC2 or something was it?
Honestly feels like it was! Lol
I definitely didn't spray anything on it when I installed it. There is abit of oil build up around the bung that I've put in place of the VCT solenoid but the black crap that's building up on the belt is just way too tacky to pass as oil build up.
It seriously feels like that black gasket maker paste...
I'm gunna have to replace the whole timing kit - timing belt is way too serious to be overlooked.
-
Both tensioners are spinning freely, no issues there. Also the belt does not whine at all - seems to be tensioned fine.
Is it possible that the belt is faulty?
-
Is the plate between the timing gear and the balancer on there?
Yeh, I ran my inspection camera to check.
Also the belt doesn't have much play in it while it's rotating.
compression test question
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
I gotta agree with you on that one - those compression numbers are not too healthy!