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SkudR33

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Posts posted by SkudR33

  1. Thanks :).

    I have bookmarked this page already, just waiting for a day when I have a bit of time to do it, tried to drive today with the Air-con on and the car stalled everytime I stopped cause the revs dropped...need to do this asap.

    Definitely the iac! Scrap the mechanic and attempt to clean it yourself, a quick way to test this theory - spray some carby cleaner into one of the hoses attached to the iac and see if it temporarily fixes your issue.
  2. So i either didn't receive an instruction manual with my gauge kit or i just lost it, anyway

    could someone enlighten me on how the wiring works in this particular setup please ? (which is what)

    so far i have the vacuum hose routed to inside the cabin and just need to wire this thing up

    but am having difficulty without this manual

    Correct me if I'm wrong guys.... Red = positive! black = ground and green = boost signal.

    I'd get 12v power to both ground both blacks, then connect the green from solenoid to the green on the gauge. :)

  3. Cheers guys will have a look tomorrow and see if I can rule anything out.

    And Scotty is there a way to check the Injectors with out taking it back to my tuner for this drop?

    Goto to the last few posts on the thread I linked below. I wrote up a small guideline to check injectors because that turned out to be my issue. :)

    http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?/topic/438150-Cylinder-%231-Dropping-Completely

  4. That might work however it would still run rough as shit in lower rpms as it is now wouldn't it?

    Edit: Just read my first post and I think I forgot too mention that while cruising or in the lower rpm range not making boost it coughs and misses as well. It runs really rough until I start bringing it onto boost and then gear changes it feels like it loses all momentum similar to applying brakes a bit.

    This only happens when using headlights or windows. So during the day it runs completely fine

    Have you checked ignition, fuel and air to make sure there is no issues?

    If you want a walk through guide of what you need to do, I'll be more than happy to spend 10 minutes writing up a little guide. But I think you might be able to find some threads relating to similar issues. :)

  5. My '96 R33 gtst has recently started to run really rough when using headlights or winding the windows up or down.

    At idle if the headlights are turned on or the brake pedal pressed the idle starts to hunt and when taking off it coughs and splutters like it's choking.

    I have played with all the usual electronics and have found most cause the idle to hunt before regathering itself or if it's the headlights to constantly hunt and then intermittently run like ass.

    Occasionally it will stall when coming to a stop using the brakes and clutching in. While cruising at say 80km/h and I wind the windows up or down or turn the headlights on it will splutter briefly until I stop using them.

    I have used a multimeter to test everything and the battery is holding charge and not dropping in volts when the electronics are used so I am very confused. Also I have removed the IAC valve and cleaned it to see if that would help but that failed. It has brand new coilpacks and spark plugs gapped to .8mm and I am running an adaptronic ecu with map sensor.

    Any ideas?

    Quick fix is to raise your idle a bit.

    I'm sure somebody else has experienced this...

  6. I agree with MJtru I think I'll re build the bottom do the basics good head gasket arp studs and bigger oil pump and bigger sump, new timing belt water pump. Just leave it standard too begin with and upgrade turbo and comp :-)

    No point in spending big bucks to rebuild rb25 back to standard - don't waste your money... Either throw in a rb30 bottom end or just get a second hand motor and throw it in your car.

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