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SkudR33

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Posts posted by SkudR33

    Turbo Timer

    in General Automotive Discussion

    Posted

    Hey does anyone know how to wire up the turbo timer with a immobiliser I have a HKS timer , its all in and working in my R32 just cant lock the car while its still running ? or will it depend on the type of immobiliser?

    I used to think the same about my one - turns out while the car is still on you need to hold the lock button for a few seconds... Hopefully that works for ya!

    Please Help! Not Sure Of My Problem

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Are you still using your stock clutch? I seem to have the same problem when taking off fast the clutch slips from 1 to second gear then it's find onwards. I believe you need a new clutch as I was told by my Tuner "Racepace".

    Ucanfindmeonhwy

    I totally agree - sounds like your clutch is slipping... Try shifting to 4th gear without taken your revs above 3500rpms and then once your in fourth gear foot plant it. Guarantee it will slip!

    Changing From Side Feed To Top Feed

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    There are plenty of fuel rail kits out there, Plasmaman being on of the more expensive ones. I guess you are guaranteed it will fit under the plenum, although I usually recommend the Proflow ones since they modified them slightly to fit the RB25 better.

    What the hell is a 1150cc Bosch injector? Seems every supplier is bumping the flow numbers just to make their stock sound better. At what pressure does it flow 1150cc? I assume we are talking about 1000cc EV14's here? If you are running e85 have you looked at the injectors designed for that? (Xspurt 1400's and ID1300's)

    Will I be able to fit full length top feed injectors with a standard plenum on my rb25det using the proflow rail?

    I know the aerospeed fuel rail also fits 3/4length injectors with the standard plenum.

    R33 Gtst Upgrades Advice Please

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Or do it yourself... I've been modifying my car for over 2 years now... 80% of the work is done by me and I'm not a qualified mechanic. This forums provides amazing DIY tutorials and you can also search on google and YouTube. There is also a copy of the service workshop manual floating around that provides you with detailed steps.

    Speak to your tuner about the combination of parts you need, fit them yourself, then get it tuned.

    Cylinder #1 Dropping Completely

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    I've fixed the problem, and the solution was so simple I feel rather foolish...

    I checked all the plugs and continuity of both the injector loom and from the ECU to the injector plug (for the injector loom). All tested good, however when I unplugged the ECU I noticed the end of the ECU plug wasn't quite flush with the housing on the ECU.

    Cylinder #1's ground is right at the end of the plug (pin out 101) and so is a switched 12v power (pinout 109) - which I imagine powers the injectors. When I looked inside the plug I noticed both pinout's 101 and 109 had a slightly splayed female connection. So I closed the connection back up, bolted the ECU plug back together and the problem is fixed.

    I guess over time the plug worked it's way loose at that end and #1 cylinder was the first to drop offline when the connection became dodgy.

    Good news :) glad I could help...

    Cylinder #1 Dropping Completely

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    I'm also currently dealing with this problem of #1 cylinder not firing on my RB25.

    As I have a wideband permanently wired in, I was quickly able to diagnose that the #1 injector was not squirting fuel. I initially thought the injector was clogged so cleaned it and reinstalled and a week or so later the problem resurfaced. I then figured the injector was on it's way out and ordered a new Nismo 555cc from Japan.

    After driving to work on 5 cylinders for the last two weeks, with the car sounding like a poxy WRX, I installed the new injector only to find it is still not firing on that cylinder.

    I have found the problem, as I connected a mutimeter to #1 then #2 injector plags and found that #1 is only getting 7.5 volts and #2 is getting 11.5 volts. Any idea what would cause this?

    My next step will be to pull the injector loom apart and look for anything dodgy there.

    Run your multimeter across the metal pins in the injector where the loom plugs in and check resistance - it should be roughly 12ohms. If you get a resistance of 12 ohms, this will confirm your injector is not faulty... Other thing I'd check is the voltage for that first injector at the ECU. It might be breaking down somewhere along the loom? Or check for continuity in the loom.

    If you need anymore help let me know :)

    R33 Gts-T S2 Fuel Pump Problem

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    Hi!

    I'm having issues with my fuel pump. The pump does not prime when turning the ignition on. Pump and relay are ok. Relay harness is getting solid +12V all the time.

    I'm really confused with all the FPCM and ECU related stuff. How is the system designed to work? What kind of readings am i supposed to get from the ECU pin 18? Now I'm getting constant +12V when ignition is on...

    Only way i'm getting the pump to prime is by grounding the black/pink wire from relay to ECU pin 18. This way I can get the car started, but it dies immediately after I take the wire off from the grounding point.

    It is hard to try to solve this problem, because I have no idea how the system is supposed to work... :confused:

    Are there any relays or fuses apart from the ones in the boot that should be checked?

    What is there to do? Is hardwiring the pump going to be a solution?

    THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!

    -Lars

    Unplug the harness going into the fuel lump in your boot and test it with a multimeter. When you click the accessories on one of the pins should get power for the first few seconds ... If it's getting power means your pump or wiring in the petrol tank are screwed.

    Let us know how you go!

    How To Replace A Timing Belt (20/25/26) Pics!

    in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

    Posted

    Hey mate just wondering do you need to have to get new tensioner and idle pully or can you just use old ones??

    You don't have to replace them but it's highly recommended... Look at it from this perspective; will cost $200 for a timing kit which includes the bearings.. This is cheap insurance for protecting your motor. You'll be kicking yourself if one of your bearings fails and you smash the internals of a perfectly healthy motor.

    Defected And Questions.

    in New South Wales

    Posted

    Well today was my 6th attempt and still no good, this time the THC was 0.39 Nox was 1.19 and CO was 2.5, there was a silvery/green r34 infront of mine and he passed on his 4th go, my dad took the car today as I couldn't make it, and he didn't get me his number, if anyone knows him or if you're reading this could you please please please inbox me asap, my rego is getting cancelled on Friday ffs, I'm so sick of this, its been 8 weeks now, this time I put in a mixture of vortex 98 and E85 making it E30 and still nothing, the testing guy apparently told my old man "this cars being used as a racing car or something?" wtf was that meant to mean, thanks.

    That is bad news... Perhaps you need to get an after market ecu and get it tuned down for EPA...

    Ps: pardon my comment if you've already tried my suggestion - just feel for ya!

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