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Hornet2572

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Posts posted by Hornet2572

    Fs: 4 X Nitto Invo 235/40/18 Tyres. Brand New

    in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)

    Posted

    For Sale:

    4 x Nitto Invo Ultra High Performance Tyres

    235 / 40 / R18 (Tyres only, wheels not for sale).

    I purchased these today, had them fitted and drove home (60kms)

    I don't like the fitment, and reckon I can get wider ones on the wheels, so I want to pass these on.

    I paid $598 for them.

    Will sell for $550 if someone wants them asap.

    I am hoping to pick up the wider size tomorrow, and will swap them over a day or two after that.

    The car won't move again until they've been swapped over.

    Can do pick up (Picton area 2571 NSW), or meet at Narellan, Campbelltown, Blacktown, or Wollongong / Wonoona areas.

    No postage. Sorry.

    PM, Reply here, or 0410-double-three-seven-double-eight-one

    http://www.nittotire.com/passenger-tires/invo-luxury-sport-ultra-high-performance-tire/

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    R32 Gtr - Atessa Confusion During Skidpan

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    Do you remember what the torque gauge is doing?

    It could give you an indicator.

    If the gauge is working instantaneously but you're not feeling the fronts grip, then the fault would be mechanical but if the torque gauge isn't reacting, I'd guess electrical.

    As an aside I check mine in a wet grassy paddock, haven't done wet bitumen. (haven't had a wet paddock for a while either)

    Does slides, straight line clutch drops etc and it hooks up as I'd expect, instantly, gauge and front wheels all happy together.

    The gauge is working when the wheels engage. If I complete a hook turn and step off the clutch, as the rear wheels spin up, the gauge does nothing, but then as the fronts kick in, the gauge then bounces up to the level it is seemingly providing. So I think the relationship between the wheels and the gauge is ok.

    I found this article interesting:

    http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=107753

    The G sensor is pivotal to how the system reacts. Also it might be worth re-calibrating the G-sensor. You can see how I did it in my thread here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356654-r32-gtr-g-sensor-fix/

    Regards,

    Jeff

    Cheers Jeff, I'll have a read through the article and your thread. A re-cal might be worth doing, even if it doesn't 100% fix the issue.

    I'd say that using a fairly crude AWD system in a scenario it wasn't set up for will likely cause unexpected results. The GTR was intended to be a tarmac race car. The ATESSA was pretty much there o make it power the front wheels on a straight line launch and to transfer drive to the front under certain lateral G conditions. If that Autospeed article linked above is the one where JE swapped or rotated his G sensors, you can get a good idea of how basic the program in the computer is.

    Of course - Never have I expected the system to work flawlessly while chucking it around a wet skidpan, and I am under no illusion that it was designed for that purpose. But Tarmac race-cars sometimes raced in the rain, so surely the system would have had *some* of it's design characteristics aimed towards putting the power down on a wet surface.

    Being the first incarnation of ATTESSA, the version in the R32 was quite crude, and relatively slow to react (compared with the versions in R33, R34). So it's quite likely that your manouvres on the skidpan are happening so quickly that ATTESSA can't keep up, and may lag behind or just give up in despair.

    Hmm... I think the lag is definitely there, but was hoping that it was for a reason other than that it just simply can't keep up.

    There's some pretty clever blokes working on the "G" sensor and their results are astounding.

    Datsun_1600 would be one of those blokes and there are others on the GTROC forum.

    Incredible that upgrading this sensor can have such a profound effect on a 25 year old chassis.

    Sure the 32 was the first ATTESSA version but the 33 isn't too different, maintaining line pressure to the transfer case clutch packs in order to reduce their reaction time.

    I do like the electronic upgrade.

    I'll have a look over on GTROC and see what I can dig up. Cheers.

    IMO the biggest problem with R32 ATTESSA is its tune, not the response speed. The ATTESSA ECU takes fore/aft accelerometer and slip signals to push power to the front (which works fine, as we see in straight line response) but then uses the lateral accelerometer signal to reduce the amount of power that goes to the front (this function is way overdone). The signal benders reduce the lateral accelerometer signal, so the ATTESSA ECU doesnt cut power so much.

    $60 ebay signal bender transformed my 32.

    The more work you've done on your suspension setup to reduce understeer, the more power you'll be able to send to the front. Nissan included the lateral accelerometer/power cut function as a way to stop power induced understeer.

    Thanks mate, the signal bender sounds like something I should look into. If I do a G sensor re-call, and test it, and then if still no luck, have a look at one of these jobbies, hopefully I can get a solution. Do you remember which one you used? Brand? Description? I'll scan eBay and see what I can dig up.

    Thanks for the responses - It was a relief to log in here and not just see a bunch of replies of "Your system is f**ked" etc... There's still hope! Lol.

    I will have a bit of a read of the G-sensor stuff and the benders and see what the go is.

    Cheers.

    R32 Gtr - Atessa Confusion During Skidpan

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    G'day all,

    I have been playing with my R32 GTR for a little over 12 months now, and am still relatively confused as to how the 4WD system works in the car. I have been competing in a wet skidpan motorkhana championship throughout the year, and during those events have been confused by how the system reacts versus how it is supposed to react.

    It's simply a very wet skidpan scenario, lots of revs, lots of handbrake and clutch work. I have noticed though that if I throw the car around a cone in a 180 degree turn, when I step off the clutch the rear wheels hook up quite strongly and no power at all goes to the fronts. The car sort of hovers with the rear wheels screaming for probably a second to a second and a half, and then the fronts kick in, and I launch off across the concrete towards the next cone.

    In a drift situation where I am feeding the power on, and sliding sideways around the obstacles, mostly the fronts engage and I get a nice smooth all-wheel drift. Sometimes though, the fronts will only kick in mid corner, or will cut-out mid corner. I don't get a warning light, or any error codes throughout the competition, and all the fluids / reservoirs seem good. If I grab the handbrake too quickly before the clutch is all the way in, I get a 4WD warning light on the dash, so I know that at least the light is working.

    Is there any hard and fast rule or information about how the system should be working in those circumstances? I get a lot of people coming up to me and asking if I have disabled the system, or if I have a controller and have put most of the power to the rears. Granted, none of the people who ask me own Skylines, or know much about them, so they could just be assuming it's meant to be constant all wheel drive?

    On a dry road, the system works great and I've never noticed it cutting in and out during normal or even "spirited" driving on dry surface.

    Anyone got any similar experiences? Or can at least fill me in if this is how it should be working, or if it sounds like there's an issue?

    Cheers.

    Cliffs

    Under load on wet skid pan during Motorkhana competition, front wheels engage randomly, and disengage randomly, causing me to spin out which makes me sad. Help.

    The New Official S A U - N S W Spotted Thread

    in New South Wales

    Posted

    White R32 GTR with SAU sticker on 1/4 window, driving on Remembrance Drive at Picton heading towards Tahmoor about lunch time today. I was in my grey 32 GTR coming out of Mitre 10 car park.

    Saw this car again today, correction - not an SAU sticker on the window, its a sticker that says "I Love my R32" or something. Lol. Saw it in Tahmoor town centre.

    Fs: Syd - R32/33/34 Fixed Back Seat Rail

    in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)

    Posted

    I recently bought a new fixed back seat for the driver side of my 32 GTR, but could only buy the rails in pairs for some reason.

    I don't need the passenger side - Will suit R32/33/34, suitable for fixed back seats.

    I paid $600 for the pair, so trying to recoup my funds. (Receipt available)

    $300 for the passenger side rail only.

    Pickup in Southern Highlands, Campbelltown, Blacktown areas.

    Can unpack it and post a picture if required, but it is brand new sealed in the box still.

    PM for further details.

    Matt.

    Fixed Back Race Seats - R32 - Height Issues

    in Motorsport

    Posted

    Hmm - Might be on to something there, Roy. I'm sure the fella from the supplier told me some were HANS and some were Non-HANS, and I just assumed that the HANS ones were the wrap-around ones, but maybe not. I'm going to chase them up again this week and see if they've had any luck with suppliers etc.

    Fixed Back Race Seats - R32 - Height Issues

    in Motorsport

    Posted · Edited by Hornet2572

    Thanks for the suggestions guys. I will try and get a look at a proper Bride and see if they're any better.

    Roy - Racetech was one of the main brands I was testing in, tried about 3 different variants, all were wide optioned, and non HANS (Still street driven car, so definitely don't want the wrap-around head rest).

    Fixed Back Race Seats - R32 - Height Issues

    in Motorsport

    Posted

    Hey All,

    The time has come for me to put some proper fixed back race seats in my R32 GTR, so I organised to visit a seller today to "Try some on" so to speak, and found the most bizarre problem;

    I am a short, dumpy sort of body shape, only about 180cm, 95kgs, and pretty stocky.

    So after jumping in a few seats from Velo, Racetech, Sparco and Cobra, it appears that an X/Large is the best to accommodate my butt, shoulders and hips, and that's fine. But every single seat I sat in, my shoulders covered the harness slots in the back.

    Both I and the sales rep were a bit confused, given that I don't have an abnormally long torso or anything, but nothing we could find worked as they all had the harness slots too low for me. The best we could find was one of the Racetech seats which my shoulders covered about 90% of the harness slot - The rep stated (and I agreed), that my harness angle would be considerably restricted even at that position.

    We tried swapping the seat cushion padding between the seats to try and lower me into the frame a bit more, but no joy.

    Has anyone experienced anything like this?

    Or does anyone perhaps know of a certain seat that has particularly high (or large) harness shoulder slots?

    Seems to be an odd problem to have, given that I'm not tall at all, I wonder how taller blokes deal with the problem?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Cheers.

    Coilovers Too Stiff

    in Suspension, braking and tyres

    Posted

    I have recently put a set of K-Sport Coilovers on my R32 GTR. I have had real issues trying to find a good adjustment to suit driving on the street. At the drags, I put the fronts 4 clicks off full hard and the rears 2 clicks off full hard, and ran a PB and found it to feel very good during the run. At the motorkhana, I have them all set to full hard because I want it to hook up wheel spin on the wet concrete and it feels great... But I haven't found a setting I am happy with on the street yet. It's either bone-shattering hard over the bumps, or wallowing over them and bouncing up and down for too long. I have pretty much put it down to the springs / spring rates. When I bought them, the K-Sport guys said different spring rates were available if required, so I might give them a buzz and run it past them to see what they recommend.

    At the end of the day, they are a budget coilover, and so the performance leaves a bit to be desired. I will probably only use them another 12 months before moving on to a more substantial set up.

    When you get a chance to adjust them, have a good drive on all settings and see what you like / don't like and let us know. I'm interested to get someone else's view on them.

    Nsw Sau 1/4mile Pb's

    in New South Wales

    Posted

    Some wicked times coming back into this thread! So I thought I would join in the fun :)

    Last week I went to WSID with a mate of mine for a few runs. He in his VE SS and me in the R32 GTR.

    My best - 12.296

    60' - 1.708
    MPH - 113.66

    I was stoked :-)

    240kw & 14psi

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