SLY33
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Posts posted by SLY33
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i love Rb26 stroker kit threads
Once i get mine running ill let you know if i can "feel" the dollars spent in terms of smoothness and response etc
Theres a few 2.7 2.8's running on this board, would be good to hear from.
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as stated what is the purpose of the engine?!
stock crank and rods can handle 800hp (while given not indefinitly!), so any of the aftermarket cranks you mention should be fine. the step 2 HKS kit is ~800 rated, and as this rating is very much more than likely conservative, im sure if your building a street car that it will handle 1000.
Either way it sounds like fun, my HKS step 2 is nearly done!
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grab a whole series 2 loom or just the coil pack loom?
my guess would be the coil pack loom(?).. Any chance of throwing in some stock S1 coils? that'd be the easiest way to get it at least running.. but then youve gone to the trouble of swapping all the plugs over...
look on the bright side, you need it running by friday, its only tuesday
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Just a note, seeing as the other thread was closed.
As someone stated at the end of it, this IS a public forum, one which slide does business on. More the point why the other thread starter might seek to get others opinions on his product. I agree that he has no place to slander or start bad rumours about the product- But he hasnt! He merely stated his problem, to which most ppl assumed it was his installation error anyway
If anything i saw the outcome of that thread POSITIVE for Slide. Not merely the barrage of satisfied customers jumping in and backing slides reputation, but slide then openly stating he will pay return postage would only make me more comfortable in buying from him.
Look at it the other way. If he didnt post, no one would see the outcome or be aware of all the satisfied customers or see the willingness of Slide to backup his product. Instead, offline rumours could circulate "my mate had one of those slide turbos die after 100k's" sort of thing. And those are ones most that hear it wont see any amendment for, and more likely to truely tarnish a reputation. Example, ive heard so much about turbo company "X" (dont want to tarnish rep!) about lag in their highflows, and numerous cases of them failing, that i wouldnt buy one! I could say that just by reading some of the satisfied customers and seeing the businessman reply in person that i would buy a slide turbo be I in the market for one.
Am i the only one that thinks the other thread is not bad for Slide?
my 2c to that
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And we wait for the results........
Now we enter.. end game. Your mine Simpson!
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pre-load on the wastegate might need to be checked.
good suggestion, ive had that problem before... wastgate looked shut but was actually loose so it could open a couple mm without any boost signal.
boost and ecu should make a world of difference even if the above isnt the case.
I thought the first thing anyone would ask is what highflow is it?!
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Which would you go for???ive got 2 options....
1) get splitfires, and hope that gapping at .8mm will work
2) regap my .8mm ngk's to .65mm, and hope it doesnt missanymore
either way will i lose a noticeable amount of power gapping from 0.8mm to 0.65mm????ive heard that too low a gap will slow the car down heaps???
no you wont lose power. i have splitfires, and tried larger gaps, even 0.8 i got a few misses here and there, 0.7 works for me.
do the checks as mentioned.. i fixed a coilpack once with a tiny piece of electrical tape.
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while im aware most would have seen this, those that havent need to see it!
The mines ultimate r34, what 2530's can really do.
It looks like they have this thing pulling hard from not much over 4grand, almost unbelievably quick to ~9grand redline, what a crazy powerband!!
does anyone know how much peak power the mines car makes?
Am i remembering correctly that this car is in Australia now?
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2x3" exhaust with 2x magic cats into a single 3.5
^^do you have any pics of the exhaust setup?!
great results! ill always love the 2530's..
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BBGTR, how much did your csc setup cost you and whered you buy it from, and do you have fronts and rears or fronts only?
Can someone please post pics of these AP5555 caliper setups?
And what exactly is an AP5555 caliper? is it a top shelf AP 6pot or what?
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It actually will. It is well known that Garrett under-rate their turbos and that you would only require around 480 engine hp to have 300rwkw. I have seen an R33 put out 300rwkw on a GT28RS
While i dont know the specs of a GT28RS, isnt that like saying i know of a 2835pros making 300 at the wheels, but most of them wont in the majority of cases?
with all the fricken ratings and various housing choices, these ratings mean little to me now!! It does what it does and you'll only know when you try
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And just to set the record straight don't want 300rwkw, but I want my turbo to be capable of it if I ever do want to. I am really only looking at around 270-280, the motor is untouched except for cams.
just some points on the HKS2835proS. This is NOT an all-day-everyday 300rwkw turbo. I think people have read what it "can" make, and taken it as gospel that it is easily achievable. It is only rated at 420ps, even if you factor in your HKS conservative estimate, your still gonna be pushing it for 300rwkw.
Now i know you said you dont want 300rwkw. My results of the full 2835proS kit, with all the support mods were 265rwkw on a totally stock motor, and 281rwkw with poncams. So id say that those are closer to your everyday figures for this turbo, which puts you just where you want to be, but with possibly not the easy potential you want for the future. Its great street turbo.. What are others making with their 2835's consistently?
So if you have cams already, then a jump from 240 to 280+rwkw wouldnt be bad, but just keep in mind that to get an extra 20rwkw to achieve 300, its not going to be a simple boost increase and a tune. With and without cams there is an issue of boost falling off and killing the peak power.
cheers
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nehting over 330mm is an overkill on the streets imo
if 'purely' street then you maybe right, but factor in the odd track day and bigger the better i guess..
Talking to racebrakes in regards to 345mm fronts vs 360mm fronts for my GTS, they told me "the 345mm setup will do everything you want. Full Stop." I cant remember the exact words he used in regards for the 360 setup, something like they are just totally awesome... Personally i would go for the largest rotor size i can fit under the rims, as im running 18's on the GTR i think the 360's will be just right.
Fitzpatrick Speed Works, can you shed any light on WP racing gear? They are significantly cheaper than the big three, yet not cheap enough to consider them "cheap", at under 7grand front and rear.
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im still reluctant.. but for the money. you cant compete.
i have the same opinion, you cant compete for the money as most aftermarket options of that size are double the price plus. But that said, if they dont last then that would make them a bit of a waste of money!
They look ok from the outside, but id like to hear from someone who really knows brakes inside out who knows whats INSIDE them and if they are actually assembled with any sort of precision! Remember China made stuff is made in China for one reason. Its CHEAP to have stuff made there. Now im not sayiing everything from china is junk, but i would say that the big names like AP and Alcon etc, are expensive for a reason!
If i see someone using G4's/China equivalients on a successful targa car id buy em right now
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And front rear bias was 60% front 40% rear.
After the uprade - there is less then 1% difference between left & right - and bias has incresed to 85% front 15% rear.
Cheers,
Actually - the calipers are pretty big - here's a shot - those wheels are 18's as a comparison - (the brakes won't fit unless you have 17's as a minimum)
is it not necessarily a good thing to have so much bias at the front? Eg my car has no ABS, if i had a bias like that, i would be locking up the fronts prematurely, yes?
your right they dont look a bad size! what size are the rotors?
you guys say you can run an AP 6pot pad, this is saying the pad area is the same as 6Pot AP setup, and is hence bigger pad area than a GTR brembo front setup that i was going to put on?!
gee im thinking it doesnt sound bad for the price now!
How about WP racing? Anyone know who and where they are made by/at?
cheers
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Those G4's are cheap, but i think they look cheap. The calipers look small for an 8pot!? Dont you want a big caliper that will run a much bigger pad?
And what is WP Racing? thats a decent price for front and rear if they are any good!
Has anyone put either of these to the test? or opinions?
AP Racing Vs Alcon? opinions? Im considering these for the gtr..
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i dont believe the stock brakes are really up for a "tough" track day, especially if your running sticky tyres and run extended laps in succession!
on my gtst which run pretty similar brake setup to your non brembo 32gtr, i had the calipers fully rebuilt with new seals, the works, and fairly new dba4000 rotors. After a few hard laps really getting on the brakes, massive shudder started when i applied the brake (which mostly went away after they cooled down) and after the track day we pulled the brakes off to find that the new rubber seals had all but melted away! Discs had a mega blue hue to the centre of the pad area, and i had pushed them to absolute fade, yet not one of the colours on the "thermocolour paint" had changed at all.
i was running semi slicks, which no doubt really worked the brakes hard!
Im sure going to a bigger rotor would help, but ultimately a bigger rotor and some better calipers would be ideal.. Are the 33GTR brembo calipers much better than 32gtr non brembo's?
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actually picked that off the AMG forums, lol, gave me a good laugh
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I really need advice on what could be a crucial decision.
I've suspected for some time now that my wife has been cheating on me. The usual signs...phone rings, but if I answer, the caller hangs up. My wife has been going out with the girls a lot recently, although when I ask their names she always says, "Just some friends from work, you don't know them."
I sometimes stay awake to look out for her cab coming home, but she always comes walking up the drive as I hear the sound of a car leaving, around the corner, as if she has gotten out and walked the rest of the way. Why? Maybe she wasn't in a taxi at all?
I once picked up her cell phone, just to see what time it was. This caused her to go completely berserk. She quickly grabbed the phone out of my hand and cursed me hysterically, screaming that I should never touch her personal property, then accused me of trying to spy on her.
Anyway, I have never broached the subject with my wife. I think deep down I just didn't want to know the truth, but last night she went out again and I decided to really check on her. I decided I was going to park my GTR next to the garage and then hide behind it so I could get a good view of the street around the corner when she came home. It was at that moment, crouching behind my car that I noticed a small amount of motor oil leaking from underneath.
So... is this something I can easily repair myself or do you think I should take it somewhere to get it looked at?
An oldie but a goodie. apologies if its already been posted!
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I did this 18 months ago. (Qld to SA)
Just take it down to Sturt St? Inspection station for a Vin check, then drop the papers and Qld plates off at your local motor reg office and collect your new plates and a rego sticker.
Sturt St Inspection station are much better than regency, just make sure obvious defects are removed (tyres etc) but if its stock you shouldnt have too many problems there.
It depends where you live. I tried to do the sturt st inspection as everyone said it was easier to get through there, but they told me due to where i live it had to go to regency park. This is no biggy tho! it doesnt go to the "pits" for a simple state rego change. They have a new warehouse building you just roll your car through, they do engine number and VIN checks to make sure nothings stolen and everything checks out. Obviously you cant roll through there with a big highmount, but if the car is stock you will have no problems whatsoever.
I took my perth registered GTR through there with Z32 AFM's, HKS turbo's, and Power FC. All i did was bolt a stock exhaust on and it was stock height. They checked the numbers, had a quick look at the tyres and that was it. All they looked at inside was the odometer. None of this kickpanel off business you get through the pits.
You'll have no problems at all, the whole process took maybe an hour, most of which was waiting for my turn, then you take the papers they give you to the office next to the pits and get your new plates. The car inspection took all of 5 minutes, then another 5mins as he went to run the numbers.
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sounds like a beastly setup with the rb30! what would it be worth as it sits?
have you run it down the quarter with the rb30?
what brakes are you running up front?!
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interstate car in sa is interesting... afaik, u CAN get defected..but once ur back across the border it's null & void.
exactly, and vice versa. My SA reg car got defected in NSW, i got it cleared but by that time the car was just about to return home so i never even lodged the clearance papers.... The interstate defect only applies in the state of issue unless they have recently changed it, ie technically my car is still defected in NSW. I got it back to SA, then got locally defected
, but as far as cops were concerned they had no idea it had an NSW defect.Back on topic, my car has just gone through regency with a huge HKS type-R FMIC, lets just say it didnt fit without some 'modifying', and it went through fine. It also went through with the pod. From what ive heard from workshops that see heaps of cars that go through, FMIC is not an issue, but if the install of the return pipe is a messy hole hacked out of the car, ive heard them pick on this.
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Dude what do you want to do with this car?
I went in a 32gts with a light tuned rb26 stock turbo's only about 250rwkw, and the car was a beast on the street. You have 380rwkw now, how do you drive that seriously!? Im presuming you track it, or are just a nut to have that much power in a little RWD 32 gts!!
oh ive also heard that for GTR the GT-SS's are a really awesome choice. But 4WD is pretty different to RWD! On a track with some track tyres it'd be a blast.. on the street, you'd think it would smoke the bags all through 3rd!
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I am a little confused myself Maybe because i initially thought my front brakes were clamping more strongly, shifting weight too quickly to the front, thus getting the rear light and twichy.
I was running some mismatched pads, and normally they were fine, but when driving hard and getting the heat up in the rears, the rears would bite more when coming into a corner hard on the brakes, and in fact were JUST locking up the rears, and that would cause the rear to step out! it was a bit unnerving! This could be whats happening to you. even if you have only front brakes working and no rears, on hard straight line braking i dont think the rear would step out. at worst if you have over powered fronts youll just lock up your fronts more often, the rear should simply follow correct?!
Maybe because i initially thought my front brakes were clamping more strongly, shifting weight too quickly to the front, thus getting the rear light and twichy.
2.8 Options
in Forced Induction Performance
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^haha, not such a problem in a gtr tho