N0Vus

C34 Laurel Questions Partner just picked up a immaculate C34 Laurel Medalist 25. And I have some questions of parts people have used to get a OEM style aero? Theres next to no information on these cars online. Looking at doing a tidy front lip and sideskirts.

Has anyone chucked a RB25DE 4Speed auto into a A31 in replacement of a buggered 3speed auto? Mate has pulled his from his C33 Laurel, a clean removal as he was planning on using it again. By the odd chance has anyone got any experience with doing this? This is my daily so I'm trying to prepare so it's not off the road for an excessive amount of time Cheers

Cheers guys

Firstly I have searched and couldn't find anything. Has anyone had experience with pinching other RB stock cams for that little bit extra? Considering comparing the different cams specs and doing a swap of there are gains to be made, just general question while I look into it as if someone has experience and has a answer it would save the time researching from my mobile Cheers

Ive picked up a D22 gearbox as they are the same gearset as the rb25det box etc Has any one done this before? Im looking at this as this box cost me $250 nzd and a 25det big box sells for 2.5k If i can source a rb bellhousing from a big box it appears it will bolt on but i think I will need to space it out as it appears the input shaft sits out further but the gearbox in total is shorter then the rb, so maybe the difference is in the bellhousing or maybe a spacer at the center plate will be enough

Ok, to start I have tried to search for answers So ive picked up a RB25DE R32 engine with loom and ecu and all i want it for is head loom and ecu. Now I plan on mating it to a rb30 bottom end. My question is has anyone run this set up on the 25de ecu with the correct sized injectors to suit the extra half a litre? Is it safe enough to drive? Not worried about top end, as long as itll be safe for daily driving. What are the afrs like? Id plan on chucking in a wide band sensor to keep and eye on anything. My reason for this is my 20e auto cefiro is shitting itself, my 180sx isnt done yet, with out that being done I cant do my 2j conversion, so 30de is done from what I have and will in long run be put into my other car once 2jz swap begins Cheers in advance for any help or insight

Hey all im after some dimensions from a rb25det box if someone has one out of the car. Im after -bellhousing length -how far the input shafts comes out past the bellhousing -box length(end to end) Cheers

A31 Cefiro I must add^^^^

Anyone know what crossmember will bolt a Big Box in? And are there any combinations of driveshafts to fit a big box in? Or should I just cut my yoke off and weld on the big box yoke at length?

Ok well I guess we will sort a new feed for that then, didnt think to far into it at this stage. Ill have to look more into it because the normal power feed etc was somehow running 12v constant so the car would stay running with the key out as a turbo timer would act. So ill have to either get the ecu trigger to work, may wire up a relay using the ecu trigger and the 12v switched feed and get it going that way, either that or anything that only feeds 12v with the engine running haha. More investigation is needed for the next step... dont worry though guys his car is miles away from being ready to drive

Its been fed from 12v switched power, so key off no fuel pump power

We ended up giving the r32 loom 12v where needed and put the fuel pump on a switch

We got it running found some info from someone thats done the swap. And regards to the comment about small tyres, I have a friend who drifts a single cam non turbo rb20e r32 and goes out with the big boys. A turbo twin cam rb20det will do just fine. The one problem I have with community is the hate towards RB20'S

My mate is putting a rb20det into his r33 just as a skid pig to learn to drift. Now we have a r32 rb20det with loom and ecu. Dash plug pins done match. And square plug under airbox pins dont match. Need some advice to set this all up. We cant even find any wiring info for the RB20e R33 to even begin to figure it out. So any infomation would be good. Or any tips to make it run with out it being wired to the car, more like its just sitting there to hold it. And dont just say get a rb25... picked this motor up for $200 with a rebuilt head. And getting this wired up will help when his RB30DET goes in as he has a R32 RB25 head. Cheers

Sweet as, im sure if I slap a head on the old block assembly id get abit of money back. Thanks alot again! Selling off what I dont need now see if I can buy a new motor off my uneeded bits!

Yeah I understand that, I will make sure I talk to the supplier and ask for what ones they offer for the 25 neo, for 9:1CP, and double check it here and with a couple of other places to make sure, I could probably ring RIPs. Another question I have, Will a R33 head bolt onto a R34 Neo Block? Since the Neos are hard to find as just I head im tempted to Buy a complete package, raid what I need and put a R33 head on? And sell off, Would this work? And Does anyone have a clue on what the compression would end up being from this? Cheers, Liam ***EDIT Answered my own questions, but have come back with another, what is the compressed thickness of a RB25 headgasket? CP Calcuator says 8.18:1CP, if the head does fit. I did have to fill the field "Compressed Head gasket thickness" with the size of a head gasket regularly available, now is the advertised thickness the compressed size? Or uncompressed? Just so I can have that information avalible

In the way of tuning, I have access to a tuner, who has lived and breathed link all his life and also owns his own dyno etc. So I feel I can get a decent tune for sure! Ok so my plan now is, source a RB25DET Neo Head. Once ive got the head then I can proceed to get the pistons. And carry on as I was Im not to concerned if it will take me longer to build using the Neo head, but Im young and can wait haha

Here in NZ, Rb30's are very hard to come by so its not as easy as $150 worth of parts, when you'd be lucky to pay less then $300 for a bare block I was planning on building it to around 350-400kw, for use on the road and to try get on the track as much as I can. Hoping it will be something I don't have to worry about to much in the longer(ish) run. And I dont have the standard pistons, only the rods. So you are pretty much saying if im only after 350kw, stick with std bottom end and put my money into the Neo head? On the other side of things, by the looks of things the only way im getting a RB25DET Neo head is by buying a complete motor. Thanks for all the feed back everyone, helps alot. ***EDIT Ok, so Im thinking I will leave the pistons for now and see if I can get a hold of a 25DET Neo head. As R32Abuser said, the higher compression is better for off boost, which I understand. So my next step is, since I dont have stock pistons I will probably get some forged ones to achieve static 9:1CR and I suppose a bit of piece of mind to know I have a good set. So should I run with stock rods or get forged rods? As I said im after 350-400kw, but will be good to have something capable of handling more as I dont see my self getting rid of this motor once built and would like the option of going further as years come by.

So I have myself a pair of brick headlights, and was curious to see if anyone has compared the light dispersion between each lens? It would really suck if I swapped lenses over to find out I am unable to pass a warrent. So anyone has any details id be much appreciated!!! And yes I have tried google, and searched the forum cheers

Ok im sticking to the R33 Head, To much hassle and extra costs related to get the R34 25DET head which I guess leaves some extra money towards cams. These are the same as what Im looking at LINK. Should I be getting 9:1 over 8.2:1? This is my first build, and I was told slightly lower wont do any harm? But I guess if someone with experience with the same build can tell me other wise Ill take that knowledge!

Im in New Zealand

Thanks heaps! Ok looks like Ill be using my r33 25de head. The only way id get a neo head is to actually buy a whole 25det motor Can the neo de ports be ported out to turbo spec? and cams arent a big deal as they would most likely be swapped out Yeah the vct oil feed stuff I already knew, but was double checking it wasnt different with a NEO head. Thank you for helping Ben!

I havent found much about the R34 heads. Like I know the r33 de/det are the same, so I originally opted for that, but now my quick 30det build has become a forged build, so im looking into the NEO head for the better flow. The main question I really need answering is, are the de/det neo heads the same? as i said before theres been mention that intake ports are alot smaller? but then other pepole have questioned this saying that the comparision i was viewing was 25 vs a 20neo

Yeah I used the search feature of the forum, and came across threads that went the wrong direction and talked about other things. Either im using the wrong keywords to find posts but I haven't found much, may possibly be using the search feature incorrect. ***EDIT: Ive also been sifting through google for the last 2 hours. Came out with more questions then answers, there is alot of incomplete information regarding use of the neo head.

Hey all im getting into my rb30 build, and have some questions I havent been able to find answers for. Firstly, any difference between the R34 RB25DE head and the R34 RB25DET Head? From what I have read neo heads are the way togo but, there has been some question about port sizes between the 25det and 25de neo heads? Will running a Neo head require different pistons? Compared to if I ran a R33 RB25DE VCT head? As im about to order some CP Forged pistons and dont want to run into the problem where I pick up a Neo donor motor and sell my r33 rb25. Anything else I need to know? Running the R33 head I know I have to run a external vct oil feed etc, is this all the same with the neo head? or do I need to further modify the head? Cheers, Liam