Ramius83

Tuners here in the States are far and few when it comes to this damn Power FC D-Jetro. So I'm resorting to other means and renting a dyno and self-tuning. Can someone send me RB26 or RB26/30 Apexi Power FC D-Jetro maps that run pretty well? My car is going for around 600-650 rwhp. I'll gladly compensate you for your time into this. Thanks all.

Finally got a Datalogit installed and changed the MAP PIM scale and offset numbers on option 1. Changed to 6630 and 0 (off the top of my head) and she still just cuts off immediately after it catches during start up. Any ideas now?

I thought it should still start though as load is also determined by TPS input. And I thought it silly that the Power FC NEEDS to have those sensors hooked up and calibrated just to start and idle. But I guess with it being older technology, it is what it is. What if a sensor goes bad when starring the car 300 miles from home? That would suck lol......

Ok. Thanks for thy replies guys. Damn, now I need to find a dataloggit now. Can the FC Halo do this as well?

Ok ok, before you flame me, I have read the Power FC FAQs. This is an Apexi Power FC D-Jetro for and RB26/30 in an S14. Engine starts and idles fine with the stock ECU, plug in the Power FC, and it just starts and immediately dies. I have turned the boost control feature off. I am using 1000cc injectors and have set the injectors to 44%. I am using the GM 3 bar map sensors, which have not been calibrated in the hand controller because apparently I need a dataloggit. I have the signal wires of the map sensors going into pins 27 (black wire) and 35 (orange wire). I have checked all power and ground connections, all are ok. Anyone have any incite into this? Would be greatly appreciated.

Does anyone know Leithy (Robert)? I have paid him for this sump that I am needing for a truck project and I have not received it yet. I paid for it back at the end of July. I would appreciate any help with this. Thanks all.

PM sent........

For the oil feeds, returns, or both?

Normal to fill to the bottom of all welsh plugs on both sides as needed with the block level on a stand......

Well, all I can say is Nitto Stroker with a Dry Sump setup........PROBLEMS SOLVED!!!!!!

Meh, if that is all that happened, find a new cap. Have all the caps shaved 0.1-0.2mm, have it line bored, then re-shim and you are good to go. Obviously, find out why it happened too........Need a cap? I am in Georgia and I could send you one.......

What about the oil pump or rear main oil seal dowels? Are those intact or still there? Could have been something left in the block before you/RIPS got it and came loose while running......

I purchased and am awaiting a Quaife LSD Front Differential for an R32 GTR oil pan. Quaife only sells the LSD Front Diff for an R33 or R34. What is the reasoning for this? Does anything need to be trimmed/modified for installation into an R32 GTR oil pan? Or is this a typo and will bolt right in? Thanks all......

I am coming down to the nitty gritty part of this build. I have just about finished the dry sump RB26 oil pan. But, I have a question for all you RB30 guys...... Would it be beneficial in adding the RB26 girdle windage trays to the RB30 girdle? Has anyone done this? Would this be a bad thing or not?. I'm thinking that with the RB26 oil pan bolted to the RB30 block, the windage properties would be nearly the same as the RB26. So I thought about drilling and tapping the RB30 girdle for the trays. What do you guys think?

Quick info.....putting an RB26 AWD pan onto an RB30. Running a dry sump system, modding the RB26 pan with three -12AN pick ups. Is it best to put the stock windadge tray back in if it can be fitting? Or should I just leave it out?

Here is the template that I promised everyone. It is in PDF Adobe Acrobat format. Just print it out. Then measure from side to side and top to bottom and compare it to my measurements. If they are off, just blow it up or shrink it until your measurements equal mine. The bolts holes don't need to be super accurate as the bolt head and washers will take care of the slack. The holes I have marked are dead on with my template. The two larger holes need to be big enough for a M10 bolt to go through, and the three smaller holes need to be big enough for a M6 bolt to go through. I actually have the one I have pictures of for sale if anyone would like to purchase it. I made another copy and I am using it. I'll let it go for $60 USD shipped to you in Australia, England, etc......Just shoot me a PM or post on here. 2083_001.pdf

Well, everything worked out as planned. The second tensioner is exactly dead straight with the other timing belt components. Here are some pictures. I'll be attempting to scan in the template I made into a PDF file. It has total size measurements so when you print it, you can blow it up or shrink it until it measures right.

I just may do that. With it being aluminum, it really didn't take me long to do, thankfully. It's 1/4" thick. I'll get to work in the next few days and trace it out and upload it.

The water pump still bolts to where it goes. Look at the bracket I made. It has indentions for the water pump mounting ears. The template I made for the bracket had the water pump mounted to the block so I knew where it went and the curves/mounts it had. When I'm at the shop again, I'll take a pic of it with the water pump on.

BTW, how did you do it?

I did make a "copy" from a piece of cardboard lol. I shouldn't need to make another one. Unless I get another block in the future and it doesn't have the machined area.

Actually, that is the external oil pump bracket from Ross. Good eye though..... The S14 this RB30 is going into won't have A/C for now, and it has electric power steering pump from an MR2. I am actually looking into a small A/C compressor that I can fab a bracket where the power steering pump use to mount. But that is another day/week/month/year lol.

Being in the USA, RB30 blocks are hard as hell to get here. I found one, ordered it, freighted it, and received it. All looked great, even had the original hone marks. All was great until the timing cover was removed. My block didn't have the machined flat area for the relocated tensioner. So I came up with this idea. The plate sits where the old tensioner was located and goes across to the flat surface that the timing cover sits on. Those two surfaces are flat and level with each other. The plate bolts down to the block with the original tensioner hole and 6mm stud hole, and two new holes were drilled and tapped where the a/c compressor bolts are. The tensioner bolts down to a large washer that sits on the aluminum plate. The tensioner was machined down the thickness of the washer and the aluminum plate. See anything that might go wrong with this?

And what are you doing with the cam covers and venting? Are you just capping off the valve covers and PCV, completely sealing the engine, then just venting the oil tank? I have already tapped the oil dipstick hole and installed a barb fitting that I will attach a vacuum regulator to, or just a simple piece of hose with variable size restrictors in it to regulate sump vacuum/pressure.

There was also a 1.85mm friction disk that was included with the kit, I guess for differences in stack height. We left that one out and just threw all the 1.75mm friction disks in. I would assume that the larger disk would increase the break-away torque, which may result in a clunkier diff in parking lots and such. After I get the car running, I'll let everyone know it was successful or a failure lol......