JDMfantasy

Eh, my bad...after looking back at the dyno graphs the official gain was 28 wheel horsepower. From 256 to 284....almost 30 ponies to the ground. But if you want to cut corners, like R31Nismoid said, you probably wont notice the difference

A screamer pipe or "divorved" downpipe will always give you more power. Whether or not you want a louder exhaust is up to you. Back to back tests were done on a 7M-GTE (3.0 liter supra turbo) using a full 3" downpipe that replaced that replaced the cast turbo elbow and all, vs. a full 3" downpipe with a divorced wastegate or screamer pipe as you call it. The result was a gain of 22 wheel horsepower from just the screamer pipe. This was done on a bone stock motor with only a cat back and an air filter + the 2 aforementioned downpipes. Pretty big difference if you ask me.

Discopotato, I see what you're saying...but you question the shape of the plenum based on what? There are no back to back dyno numbers on any manifold, so what can you really compare? Obviously this manifold will do what is supposed to do....flow lots of air. Is there a better design? No question. What is the better design? I don't know the answer, do you? We could build any number of different style manifolds, but who is going to test them back to back on their car? Also, saying that stock manifolds and endtanks are the best at distributing air is almost comical. The stock RB26 manifold is a tube with a slight taper in the rear, not a shape for ideal distribution of air. Like I stated before, we build our manifolds around a goal, and we build what we feel will best meet that goal. It is a generally known and accepted fact that a taper toward the rear of the manifold will speed up air velocity, allowing the runners furthest from the TB adequate air. For that reason, our manifold gradually tapers toward the rear. It has gradual curves compared to other manifolds. The TB directs air towards the center of the plenum, not down the backbone, nor the first few runners. It has large runners to flow lots of air. I guess what I'm getting at is how is this manifold simply "monkey see monkey do." There's only so many ways to shape a manifold, everything looks similar. What would you suggest that would make for a better manifold for a drag motor? (obviously twin TB's may be better for air distribution, like I said, thats what I wanted to build...) Again, our manifold is not "perfect". What is perfect? Without knowing any facts as to what truly is best, how can you complain about ours? Question the design all you want, but without any evidence to support anything, who cares.... I hope you can see my point. Here goes the controversy

I'm sure the owner of the car will post some dyno #'s once the motor is back in the car, so we'll have to wait and see on that. We wanted to use velocity stacks, but at the time we could not find any in the size we needed. I've located some now of course, but...too late What areas would you improve on Roy? I agree with you on the runner to stock flange, it is a bit of a step down. The head has been ported significantly, so the stock flange will be opened up to match, and that will take care of the step. I hear ya there....intake manifolds are one of those areas that are still up in the air. Stack vs no stacks, plenum volume and so much more....we do the best we can to make a quality product, but there's always someone out there who can do it better. Does that person then make somthing better?...nope. Even if they did, who's going to test the two back to back? I guess we'll never know. All I can say is that for the goal of the car, I think this manifold will get the job done.

Nope, they're not. I'll agree with you that they look funky, but thats normal when you take a grinder to them. Thanks though

Tig'd both inside and out. Same material and technique used on our fire truck parts (rated over 500 psi)

I would not build a manifold based on looks. It is a large capacity plenum with large runners and TB because a ton of air is being moved through it. The runners are 51mm ID, and they taper down to the stock flange (this speeds up air vel.) which will be port matched to the ported head. The opening of each runner is radiused out to from 2" to 3.5" for max flow and smooth transition. This is not going on a street car. Not sure if you're serious about the welds, but they're all sanded out. None are visible. Our MA70 supra came with the 7M-GTE 3.0 turbo. We swapped it out in favor of the 1UZ.

The 1UZ makes his home in a mk3 Supra

Ha, all welds are sanded down smooth. I would love to build a dual TB plenum, but no one seems to want one...If I had a GTR, you would see one. We are building a dual plenum, dual TB intake for our twin turbo 1UZ however B) Heres an old pic

Well, like I already said.....my hoses are clear, that way I can see if any oil is draining out of them. ...and again, like I already said, there is anything draining, so I'm guessing the road is just fine. Guess no body reads posts anymore... If I was pulled over, why would a cop open up my hood? We don't have all those strict rules and regulations where everything needs to be stock. I've driven alongside the po-po countless times, never have I been pulled over, and the 4" downpipe on my supra exited right out behind my passenger wheel. They never seemed to mind There are no idle problems, as long as you plug up the factory holes in the intake tract. Bottom line is you do not need a catch can. If you live in lock-down land, and are worried about oil pouring out of the bottom of your car, maybe a catch can is for you.

Yep, just some pics for anyone who enjoys modifying their skyline.

Heres a few pics that show the build up of our custom GTR intake plenum. This will be going down to Australia, to a fella with a drag R32. The car will be making between 1000 -1200 awhp. Runners are 51mm ID, throttle body is 105mm.

No oil comes out of the hoses. They are clear hoses, and theres nothing coming out of them, so no problems there. Also where I live there are no emissions testing or inspections or anything of that type of nature, so you can get away with non-street legal everything B)

A catch can is not needed. Instead of paying $100 + for a can, run your hoses to the bottom of the engine bay, and simply have them vent to the air.

I spose we could....