SSM

Got some more work done on the build. I have also scraped together a order for parts from Eric's Performance Parts in USA. Can't wait to get some parts in the door so I can deliver the engine to the engine specialist. The parts list that I have ordered is as follow: -NPR Piston rings -Competition Clutch 6 puck with springs -Cometic NISSAN 1989-02 RB26DETT 2.6L Inline 6 87mm Bore 1.3mm top end kit -ARP Flywheel Bolts Kit -Nissan NIS-IOK-RB26 Fuel Injector O-Ring Kit -Nissan 12309-05U00 Crank Pulley Bolt -ATI Super Damper Nissan RB26DETT R33 & R34 1000hp -Nissan GTR RB26DETT ARP2000 Head Stud Kit -ARP 202-6004 Rod Bolt Kit for Nissan RB26 -ARP 102-2201 - Pressure Plate Bolts -Cometic PRO2017B Street Pro Bottom End Gasket Kit -Exedy Flywheel 15.8lbs Nissan R32 (NF01) -Greddy Timing Belt RB26DETT -Nissan 13074-58S00 Timing Belt Idler Bearing -Nissan 13070-5L300 Timing Belt Tensioner -ACL Race rod bearing std clearance -ACL Race main bearings std clearance So, to some pictures Had an incident last year. The trackday tire did hook itself on the front fender and bent it. So I bought a set of fiberglass Sport Evolution fenders that I have had laying around since. I started fitting them this week, and they fitted very well. Just need to lay some new fiberglass on the left one to get it fixed onto the point that is under the low beam light. Also saving 2.4kg pr front fender. While I was on the loft finding the front fenders I stumbled over my old stock E30M3 S14 gearbox crossmember. And that looks like it would fit the RB25 gearbox mount. The rubber mount will fit right on, so lets hope it might be the right hight for the gearbox as well. Also received my R32 GTR Mishimoto radiator the other day. Was lucky to get one used from a guy in Norway with two dual fans and a expansion tank. It sits very well in the chassis. Just need to make some good fixing points for it. Searching Ebay I found this HKS Type R oil cooler and filter relocation kit for RB26. This is the best HKS kit they sell with thermostat in the filter housing. So I can now remove the stock water oil cooler under the intake for good. This kit cost a shit load of money new from HKS, so I was not slow on making the decision for buying this second hand. Gave it a good clean when it arrived. Probably need to make my own hoses, doubt this will bolt right up. Just trying some different positions for the cooler and the fan. Having the fittings in the bottom of the cooler is suboptimal, but as I said I was just playing with it. Probably will fix it onto the top of the intercooler when I buy that. Till next time..

Feel free to sketch.

Need advice. Can anyone here tell me how my catch can is supposed to look inside? Baffles? I have buildt it, and just spot welded it together and made sure it fit the car before going into the next stage. So I have to take it apart to do the inside. But I do not know how it is supposed to look. The bungs is AN12 x 2 from rockercover. AN10 x 2 from crankcase breathing and AN10 x 1 as a optional return line to sump.

Ok, guys. I have talked to a guy here in Norway that have run his 700hp RB26 for 30.000km without issues. He does a lot of trackdays as well. I have seen his car and figured that I should ask him how and what he has done to the oil system. He has done as follow: -Drilled the return galleries -Rear head drain to under oil level AN10 -Rocker cover breathers to top of catch can AN12 -Rear twin turbo return line works as a crankcase vent to top of catch can -Catch can return line to sump under oil level -And a modified Trust/Greddy oilpan sump What oilpump and restrictor he is using I do not know. I'm using JUN pump and 1.2mm So, I went to use his solution. But I'm swaping into another chassis, so to build the sump downwards is not an option. Here are some pictures of how far I have come now. And I'm happy to get input on this. Remember, this is my first RB26 so do NOT copy this and think this is a top of the line solution. I delivered my engine to the best engine builder in Norway. He has build some 25-30 RB engine over the years. Most of the engines that comes out of his shop runs and runs and runs. I think it is probably because he is very detail orientated and checks everything twice. What I wanted he to do is a lot, but now lest focus on the oil control. I told him to drill out the return galleries. And since I have not found any damn pictures of that being done in this thread I might as well post it. This is done by a professional, and it is not recommended doing on the garage floor with a hand held drill. Fist he cleaned the block, pressure tested it and honed it: The oil is returning in these small holes as seen here Here as seen with the Cometic MLS head gasket laid on No fancy equipment, just e regular drill The drill is marked to how deep he was going to drill the hole Here you can see the other side of it Then he decked the block to the finish an MLS gasket requires as well as degrading The same was done to the head And the result with the head gasket back on The block got powder coated and is ready for further assembly

How is the routing on the hoses?

So. Have been working more on the oil pan. I have never ever tried to TIG weld aluminium before, so I had to give it a shot this time and try to learn it. I thought I got it going pretty well. It takes a lot of time compared to welding steel, that's for sure. To start with I just cut out the oilpan to see if the engine would fit the car in the first place. Then I made some plates of 6mm aluminium and some half moons to close the holes for the driveshafts. After welding that on, The engine was crashing with the bracket for the steering rack. In and out about 25-30 times I finally got it right with clearance and the engine placed in the middle of the car. Next step now is to start making the brackets for the engine mounts. I also had to do some custom work on the JUN baffle plate. The sump became a bit smaller when I was finished, so the baffle plate would not fit as it was. So just some small mods and it was good to go. The sump will be extended to both sides in order to swallow more oil. I know the welds are not the art kind you usually see, but I like to do as much as I can myself and learn along the way. Also got some more parts in the post. First to show up was the NISMO lightweight flywheel and the Cometic MLS gasket kit. Hopefully the rest will show up later this week, as well as the Mishimoto intercooler. Looking forward to place the coolers and everything. Made some threaded aluminium bungs, and using the fixing ears that was already on the baffle plate. Welded and is now fitting properly. How it turned out. The dent you see is for the steering rack bracket. Fitted in the car. Had to cut off a small bit off the bracket after this photo in order to get more clearance. When it was in the centre of the car, it was touching the bracket. Don't mind the loose aluminium plate. It is just to have some millimeters of clearance to the steering rack. Mocking up with a laser tool. My car have been crashed on the left side at some point, so I don't think I can use a cross measurement to place the engine. Best I have is the small hole in the front box there. Probably need to convert to electric powersteeringp pump. I see VW Lupo/Polo and some other small cars have a very descent one. And some new parts at last. Till next time...

Is it a way to mount the RB25 power steering pump in the position where the AC compressor was, and run everything on the same belt. Or will there be wrong RPM's for the power steering pump?

Got some more work done on the build. I have also scraped together a order for parts from Eric's Performance Parts in USA. Can't wait to get some parts in the door so I can deliver the engine to the engine specialist. The parts list that I have ordered is as follow: -NPR Piston rings -Competition Clutch 6 puck with springs -Cometic NISSAN 1989-02 RB26DETT 2.6L Inline 6 87mm Bore 1.3mm top end kit -ARP Flywheel Bolts Kit -Nissan NIS-IOK-RB26 Fuel Injector O-Ring Kit -Nissan 12309-05U00 Crank Pulley Bolt -ATI Super Damper Nissan RB26DETT R33 & R34 1000hp -Nissan GTR RB26DETT ARP2000 Head Stud Kit -ARP 202-6004 Rod Bolt Kit for Nissan RB26 -ARP 102-2201 - Pressure Plate Bolts -Cometic PRO2017B Street Pro Bottom End Gasket Kit -Exedy Flywheel 15.8lbs Nissan R32 (NF01) -Greddy Timing Belt RB26DETT -Nissan 13074-58S00 Timing Belt Idler Bearing -Nissan 13070-5L300 Timing Belt Tensioner -ACL Race rod bearing std clearance -ACL Race main bearings std clearance So, to some pictures Had an incident last year. The trackday tire did hook itself on the front fender and bent it. So I bought a set of fiberglass Sport Evolution fenders that I have had laying around since. I started fitting them this week, and they fitted very well. Just need to lay some new fiberglass on the left one to get it fixed onto the point that is under the low beam light. Also saving 2.4kg pr front fender. While I was on the loft finding the front fenders I stumbled over my old stock E30M3 S14 gearbox crossmember. And that looks like it would fit the RB25 gearbox mount. The rubber mount will fit right on, so lets hope it might be the right hight for the gearbox as well. Also received my R32 GTR Mishimoto radiator the other day. Was lucky to get one used from a guy in Norway with two dual fans and a expansion tank. It sits very well in the chassis. Just need to make some good fixing points for it. Searching Ebay I found this HKS Type R oil cooler and filter relocation kit for RB26. This is the best HKS kit they sell with thermostat in the filter housing. So I can now remove the stock water oil cooler under the intake for good. This kit cost a shit load of money new from HKS, so I was not slow on making the decision for buying this second hand. Gave it a good clean when it arrived. Probably need to make my own hoses, doubt this will bolt right up. Just trying some different positions for the cooler and the fan. Having the fittings in the bottom of the cooler is suboptimal, but as I said I was just playing with it. Probably will fix it onto the top of the intercooler when I buy that. Till next time..

Sump will be extended to the right and left.

The more I read the more confused I get. And I can't seem to find what I'm looking for. I have stripped down my RB26 now and it is being buildt as we speak. Parts I have is: -Late model R32 crank with long nose -JUN oil pump -JUN oilpan baffle -1.2mm oil restrictor If I do this: -Drill the return galleries to 10mm both in the head and the block -Make the entry to the galleries smoother -Mine's or Hi-Octane rocker baffles And as for the catch can: -AN10/12 from rocker cover to top of catch can -AN10 from top of catch can to oil pan. (ABOVE OR UNDER OIL LEVEL?) -AN10 from bottom of catch can to oil pan. ABOVE OR UNDER OIL LEVEL? Have I gotten everything correct then for building a RB26 that will last? I'm driving the car manly on the road, but when I'm on the track I drive pretty fast. So I'm building it as a trackcar. EDIT: Spec will be stock rebuild bottom end with all balanced internals. 6Boost manifold, BorgWarned 7064 EFR .92AR turbo and stand alone engine management system. Aiming for around 340kw at the flywheel.

What will be done to the bottom end is: -Fully balanced crank together with flywhee, clutch and harmonic balancer. -Balanced stock rods and pistons -Hone and deck the block -Drill the return galleried to match the head gasked (10mm) -JUN high flow oil pump -1.2mm gallery restrictor -New race rod and crak bearings after the machine shop have taken correct masures of the clearances The head will get a full check with pressure testing and flow testing. Drill the return galleries and make the oil entry better. New decking for the head as well as a good cleaning job. The total long block will be packed with stock main bolts, because ARP is not needed for the power I'm aiming for. There will probably be ARP bolts in the rods, ARP in the flywheel and ARP head studs. Cometic complete gasket kit for the top end and bottom end. The long block will be put together by the machine shop, so I'm picking up a new buildt long block. I would love to get some inputs from you guys if you think I'm doing this the correct way. Should I maybe cost a new set of rods and pistons now when I'm first at it? Aim is not more than 500hp anyway. I'm probably going top mounted upgraded stock twin turbos on custom manifolds.

Okay, so, I have got some work done. The engine is now fully stripped down and I have made a deal with a engine shop to take care of the internals for me. And since he has a lot of work to do now, everything is on hold. There is no rush when building something like this anyway. I have made a list for a shop in USA that sells almost every part that I need, so I'm waiting for a final quote on the price there. The cylinders looks good, so there was no unpleasant suprises when I opened the engine. Here is how each main bearing looked. I'm no engine expert, but there was only significant ware on the number 1 bearing. Since it is late model R32 GTR engine, the crank has the long nose. Saved some bucks there! One random shot of the crank Started to take apart the head and placed the parts in order on the bench. Rest is up to the engine builder to take apart. And a complete stripped block. Ready for wash, hone, deck and some drilling. Till next time

Hello I have started to strip down my RB26 R32 engine, and I have some questions that I hope some could help me with. There is a LOT of water, air and oil lines on this engine. And I'm going single turbo. So, what can I remove and what is done to all the lines when going single turbo? I'm also wondering what the thing that is under the intake is. I have not pulled this engine myself, and this is my first time working on Nissan engines.

Bough myself a bottom mount manifold. Claimed to be out of a old HKS kit. This is just a test project to see if I can use a bottom mount single setup, but the main plan is to cut off the flange and turn it over to a top mount manifold. Would also need to angle the T4 flange as well.

Update time! I have not done much with the car itself. There is winter here in Norway, and I f**king hate to work in a cold ass garage when I actually don't have to. So I have just been collecting more knowledge about the RB26, as well as collecting parts and working out solutions in my head. I was surfing Ebay and stumbled over a swap kit for RB26 in 200sx. It was fair price so I just bought is. Figured that it is more easy for me to modify them mounts, rather than te stock aluminium mounts. To be honest, I don't think it is that much off. Have not had the time to test it on the engine yet. From USA company Wiring Specialties. They are making custum wiring harnesses for different cars and applications. I found ound that they was actually making a RB26 harness for the E36. So I emailed them and told them what car and model I had, and they could make one custom for me. So I sourced a C101 plug (BMW interface) on Ebay in USA and just got that shipped directly to Wiring Specialties. So now I have a plug and play harness for the RB26 in my E30M3, hopefully. Another benefit is that the Japan wiring harness is not having a good rumor in beeing of high quality. This makes my build more reliable and safe from electrical problems caused by an old harness. Everything in this is new, all the plugs and connectors is new. I have read that people have had problems when mapping PNP stand alone engine management systems, that is caused by a bad stock harness. Another thing that Wiring Specialties do with this harness is that they clean it out. They route it a bit different and some boxes, relays, ignition amp and injector resistance is moved to inside where the ECU will be fitted. So the engine itself will look more clean. The wires for the injectors for exaple is now routed under the intake. This this costed me a lot of money, so I'm just hoping it will work as it should. Only thing I need is a BMW oiltemp and water temp to get correct reading in my cluster. Also need to solder 3 or 4 wires. For the reverse, speed signal and rev counter I think. Have not had a good enough look at it yet.

Got some more photos of it on email. I can see some rust on the flange, but I also noticed that there is these small braces from the flange and onto the turbes. I remember seeing that on the CX racing ones if I remember correct. Another thing is that the 6Boost manifolds are coated anyway, am I right?

Crap. He claims it is 6Boost, but there is no 6Boost logo welded on the numer 1 tube.

Can anyone validate if this is a genuine 6Boost manifold? Have not bought it yet, but I have an offer.

My friend have a 86 Cosworth. It will be that car and mine that is going to cruise the alpine roads august next year. He is doing a complete rebuild of the YB engine and some DTM parts.

Main reason is that I want my car to stand out. There is a LOT of S54 E30's being buildt in Norway at this time. And I have always loved the RB26 sound, and I have dreamt about swaping an RB into something. So it was time to make a boy dream come true. Just hope I can get this to be as reliable as the BMW engine was/is.

That is the plan. But for 2015 me and my friend have a 7000km trip to the Alps planned. So that is the main goal for next year. Italy, Monaco, Switzerland and so on.

I'll just let the photos do the talking.

Thanks. Yes, I have read that thread before. There is a LOT of solutoins there that you will not find in my car I have also read all about Newman's car, and there again I find a lot of bad solutions and shortcuts. Like taking the exhaust through the heater hatch.... Anyway, these bad boys turned up at the door today. Will take som better shots when I'm going home from work.

Received some parts before the weekend. Hope I'm doing this rigt!! JUN oilpump, JUN baffle kit and N1 waterpump

Tomei is best and JUN is not that good? Have a JUN pump on hand now.