Godzilla32

Thanks again for the reply Geoff. Would a rattle gun fit in there with only the radiator removed?

Recently put the crank pulley bolt back in and did it up real tight, now i cant undo it to make changes! I didnt think id need to undo it so i did it as tight as i could. I've already broken about 3-4 breaker bars!! Can anyone help me to get this bastard undone?? Thanks guys, Deren

Anyone got any good ideas?

Im in Melbourne so something local would be best. I asked at nissan and intake are 35 each and exhaust are 50 each..Can i get cheaper? If so where? Also i need a good cheap cylinder head shop... Anyone got good suggestions? Thanks guys, Deren

Ok thanks Geoff, makes sense. One less thing to worry about :-P

Normally means that your head gasket is leaking oil into the water and vice versa. ie need new head gasket...

The whole belt seems to be working its way forawrd, not just on the crank pulley. The whole way around it seems to be moving forward... Im not keen on putting it back together with it doing this. Any help would be great

Ok thanks for the advice mate. I'll go do that now..

Mine is doing this now...How did you fix yours?

There must be something missing. Make sure the actuators are operating correctly by blowing compressed air in at the boost controller (drivers side) 10psi should operate the actuators smoothly. Test that first to see if they are working properly.. If not work out where your leak/problem is... Hope this helps, Deren

Yeh i got a smaller torque wrench over the w'end but i'll hopefully borrow one tomorrow off my boss's brother.

Thanks guys but i spoke to Geoff and we worked out a good way for me to get some more movement. It worked very well and i now have a much freer smoother rotating cam. There was deffinetly no marks on mine whatsoever. I have had a few tough spots on this mild rebuild of mine but im getting there now. I put in the rear turbo tonight and got the second ready. I've cleaned up the whole block, head all ancilliarys. Also ever part i am putting back on is getting a through cleaning and polishing! It'll look great when its all finished. Im pretty fussy when it comes to perfection!! Once again thanks for all your help, especially Geoff! Deren

I just looked then i cant see any markings at all on any of the caps... I dont think it would have been possible for me to bend a valve as each time i installed the cam i made sure it was the same way as when it was first taken out... Im just puzzled as to why it wont rotate?

Thanks i'll get them in order but im still confused about the rest of your PM...I replied there. Thanks mate

My next dilemma! I got it all torqued back down and now i cant budge the camshaft. I oiled it up upon installation. I did however fail to mark all the cam brackets before removal, so now they are all probably mixed up apart from 2. The front one and the 2nd one which i had marked for lining up the cam. Am i in trouble again? I dont want to reinstall everything incase i go to start the engine and the cam jams and everything hits everything else!! Please help

Hey Geoff, i did exactly as you said and managed to get the broken bolt out without a hitch! Thanks very much for all your help lately Cheers, Deren

Is it really important to torque the crank pulley bolt to exactly 446-466Nm?? Thats a huge amount of torque and the wrench needed would be very expensive. Im planning to buy a smaller one for lighter jobs but i cant even find some where to higher one like that. Someone said they just did it up as tight as they could, and it was ok. I'd prefer to torque it to the right tension but sounds as though it will be difficult... Deren

Thanks heaps for that info mate! I've got a friend coming to help me out 2morow. He said to use the same technique that you just said... Where should i get the new bolts from? Thanks again Geoff Deren

...you have jolted your turbo and your exhaust wheel has come a gutsa, and its really damaged so struggling to spool.. That sounds very unlikely to me... More likely a pipe loose as you mentioned or a punctured intercooler core... Also if the turbine wheel was off there would be no boost at all...

Its 206 (rated) flywheel kw's. Prolly more like 210-215. But a completely stock gtr should show around 165 at the rear wheels (as mine did) Im not sure about at all four wheels..140 could be right...

Well its apparently very important to replace the tensioner stud as its under a fair bit of pressure (hence tensioner) To remove it you lock up a 2nd nut behind it and undo the first. Nissan told me not to bother replacing the bolt as its not under any real stress. But im very suprised they said what they did about the tensioner stud?!? Thats pretty reckless of them!

I was very carefully tightening down the exh cam shaft in many stages when one of the bolts snapped! Im really upset now cuz i've never fixed this kind of problem before... Please can sumone guide me thru wat i need to do. I roughly know how but im scared of doing more damage. Also paranoid about metal shavings etc.... What should i do??? Thanks again, Deren

Umm well id pull the turbo off and get it checked out it may need a rebuild. There could be a problem internally. Thats all i can suggest if you have narrowned the noise down to the turbo. Try using a stethescope to listen to each part of the engine when sumone shuts it off and stars it up or just while its making the noise...Whenever that is... You can use a piece of hose like garden hose. Works the same... Deren

I will pick up both new ones 2morow they are only about 4 dollars all up..

Yeh i have decided to do both but they quoted $130 for just the idler bearing - no assembly! Need help sourcing the parts at a decent price..