Godzilla32

Easiest way to check it out is get it scanned at a garage. any with a scan tool will work

Much appreciated mate. How much was it? Deren

Hey everyone, I've searched and searched for the topic but can't seem to find it. Apparently there is one but oh well. I have my RB26 on the stand out of the car and i want to mod the oil pump collar on the crank to improve strength. I am curious who has had it done in Brisbane. I need a contact that i can trust to do a good job at a good price. If any of you have had this done in brisbane please let me know. Cheers, Deren

Yeah clearly it comes down to compatibilty of various parts made by different companies. Deren

I had a chipped turbine blade (ceramic) which made a shrill/squealing noise. Only on full throttle though. Only takes a tiny little chip on a blade to throw out balance (im guessing) and cause a noise. Hope this helps. Deren

Using a stock fuel rail do you need to remove the stock fuel pressure reg in order to fit the aftermarket adjustable item? Thanks

Either that or couldnt it also be the turbo (compressor side) oil seal??

Make sure you use a strong magnet when/if you end up drilling/tapping it...The magnet will attract all the metal shavings and stop it all from going in your sump.

I wouldnt be modifying an exhaust that is mean't to fit perfectly without any changes myself. Defeats the whole purpose of buying the bolt on exhaust option in the first place... There has to be another explanation for why its knocking on the cross member or watever its hitting.. It can be hard to see without a hoist and getting under it properly and checking from all angles.

Why does it make a difference if your going up or down a hill? The exhaust hangers/rubbers should be holding it secure enough that it doesnt move so much to hit any part of the car. Id be checking that you have hooked all them up first and all the rubbers are in good condition before making any mods to the 'bolt on exhaust'... Deren

To stuff the thread you first have to cross-thread it. If the thread is damaged you will have to run a tap thru it to clean it up. If its that far gone you might have to put a recoil in it...Kinda a bad situation to be in as the consequences if it leaks or comes out completely are clearly far from good. Dont take any chances Hope this helps, Deren

Have you tried checking the installation instructions on the apexi site? http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/5.pdf Im planning on installing one into my R32 GTR so let me know how you go. Hope that helps, Deren

Hahah

Coolant should be changed every 20,000 km's or every 1-2 years. Despite what manufacturers say. A low glycol concentration will destroy the internals of the cooling system in the engine. Also any decent quality coolant is ok as long as its mixed to the correct concentration for that particular engine...Your family mechanic isnt a sales person for nissan spare parts is he? lol

Thats the connector for the thermo switch that turns the sub cooling fan on. Its an extra fan incase the engine is idling and the clutch fan isnt doing enough revolutions to create sufficient airflow to cool the engine coolant. I think it also comes on when you switch your AC on, but my AC has never worked so i cant back that up. But it would make sense as there is no way of electronically switching on a heat activated clutch fan!

Anyone got a R32 GTR gearbox stripped or one they wanna get rid of? Need a few parts. In brisbane. PM or call Deren 0402 829 091

Or you could do what im doing and completely remove the engine and every little nut bolt and washer and polish everything one by one...But i probably wouldnt advise this as it tends to take just a little longer Mind you the end result should be insane!

If anyone has one with no scratches and preferably no tint (but not essential) please PM me or call me on 0402 829 091

Bonnet sold, drivers door still available... I also have other bits and pieces to sell. If anyone needs anything please PM.

Was thinking the same

Yes it will. PM if interested. Deren

If the r32 uses a disc/drum combo on the rear. There will be a small hole (normally filled with a rubber plug) in the hat of the brake rotor. Thru this, once correctly lined up, you can use a small flat blade screw driver to turn an adjustment wheel. One way will tighten the h/brake shoes and the other will loosen them. Try to see the thread on the adjuster. That will give you an idea of which way it needs to go. Normally turning it to the right will adjust it up but on some cars they reverse the left side adjuster. Anyway just click it up until you cant turn the rotor anymore and then back it off a few clicks so its just barely dragging. After you have done this on both wheels test the handbrake. If its still not within 5-6 clicks at fully on, you will have to then adjust the actual cable. You can do that at the handbrake lever end. Hope this helps, Deren

Haha very funny. I was thinking the same. To replace the cam gears first install the inlet gear and fit belt then set belt on exhaust gear and work it accross until it slips onto the end of the cam shaft. Use patients and you will get there. The 2nd time i did mine thats how Geoff showed me to do it!

Bonnet still available. Anyone need a GTR (aluminium) bonnet?

I have a damaged one. Dunno if its anygood to you.