Mitch_Dubya
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Posts posted by Mitch_Dubya
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Wired in battery isolator
Mounted the monster wing on the fibreglass boot. Fingers crossed it doesn't rip off
In to work for a 4 wheel wheel alignment
I'm working on making the front bar a quick release with locating bolts at the side and tie downs and rubber rings. Just need to bolt the harness in an a quick service and it should be right for a shake down skid on June 5th
After that, I'll look at tow straps, mounting and wiring in a tacho, fit up some new 2nd hand semi slicks I bought today and roll the guards
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Its ALIVE!!!! just like the mountain from game of thrones, it just needed a rewire and its good to go on crushing skulls
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Had one of those 'two steps forward, five steps back' days. Looks more an more like a car again but we've hit a snag with the wiring.
It'll crank over and it's getting fuel but won't fire. Old man thinks we've got something wrong with the wiring of the crank angle sensor. A knock on effect from the messy ball of wiring we were dealing with from the old shell. Took the seat rails apart to see if we could get them adjustable again, bigger job than we'd anticipated but it's now been rebuilt, much stronger than before. It's also the best part of an inch higher but I'm not sure if I prefer it that way, time will tell.
Plastic flush mount boot lid has been fitted
Headlights fitted as well
New wheels aren't gonna fit without flares and/or stretched tires
Hoping a better wiring diagram will help, if not I've got an auto elec mate who's done a few different LS swaps who might have to come in an save the day. Don't know if it'll be at the logic skid day, don't know if I care right now
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Yeh I'd read his thread before, was kinda the reason I was worried about putting some on. Something about them looks goofy to me (no offence intended if that guy is reading). I think it's the shape of his, and not having skirts that continue the shape or something. I'll have to get my hands on some and dummy them up on the car before I cut away the guards.
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I'm also toying with the idea of plastic fender flares and painting them white. It looks awesome on some cars and on others it looks shit....
Thumbs up
Not so much
Anyone want to share an opinion?
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progress report:
brakes have been bled, clutch bled.
Exhaust and tailshaft in
wheel on, back on her feet
fuelled and and no leaks
It came with a set of 17's that had stretched tires and rolled guards. I had previously tried to fit some 235 semis but it wouldn't clear at the front. I've lined up a guard roller when the car is back in town but I also picked up some cheap 18x9's with 38 positive offset. First impression, they look to clear a lot better
I have another set of ugly arse tri-spokes that are 17' and had planned on keeping all my wheels the same size but my work have stacks of 2nd hand rubber coming off cars that still have a heap of tread, all free. Most cars with good quality rubber are 18' plus so it made sense to grab the bigger wheels.
First thing I did was raided the tire pile for some banglops and Bridgestone Potenzas which will all go up in smoke on an upcoming motorkhana day. If I find a good grippy set they may make a lap dash day.
So to get it started:
mount ECU and plug in
wire in battery isolator
working on mounting the seats on functioning rails and mounting them up
Wheel align
battery in and hope for the best
once its running again I might get it back in town and work through the last of non-essentials
- mount tow strap (coz no skills)
- tidy up switch panel for fuel pumps, ignition and starter button etc
- roll guards
- Make up some door cards
- cover holes in parcel tray etc.
- fab some door handle, window switch etc
- fit new pass door, mirror, lock barrel and guard
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Yeh ill do the motorkhana @ Logic in June. Cant see myself having time or money to get it to a test and tune day or Shep Deca
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Getting close now.
Engine mostly wired in
Dash made up with a few switches and gauges wired and mounted
Stripped the last of the required parts from the old 33.
One last tank slapper
May she rust in peace
Rear subframe ready to go in. The fuel tank out of the blue one had a couple of holes accidentally drilled into it at some point so made sure they were properly fixed.
Gonna have to roll some guards
Mounted the surge and pump
And the fuel pressure reg
Rear subframe in, only took minutes
Got a replacement passenger door and guard, just gotta remove some plastidip
Home stretch now;
Mount ecu
Seats and harnesses
Exhaust
Bonnet
Boot and wing
Tacho and shift light
Front bar and headlights
Battery isolator and start button
See if it starts
Bleed brakes and clutch
Wheel align
Probably a bunch of other stuff
Do many skids
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It'll be ready by 4th of April..... 2017
Got a few good hours on it today, trans cross member fitted and final adjustments to engine position all sorted. Gear selector fitted up and feels 100% better and more direct than before.
Tractor tube cut to cover the hole, want to make the cabin more air tight
A little over engineered but race car
Ripped a bunch of plastic, seat belts, hood lining etc. Any weight save was put straight but in via tek screws, silicone and grommets.
Made a good start swapping the wiring loom and doing it in a much more efficient and sensible way.
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Cheers Amir, good to hear.
I finally got to lay a spanner on the car today, albeit with my mischievous 18 month old son 'helping'. While I was honeymooning over seas the old fella got a bit of work done.
Tranny rebuilt, newish clutch and all back together
Subframe/front end of blue car removed
Steering column/box swapped
Brakes, clutch, pedals, wiring loom all swapped
We soon had the subframe on the white one (finding more than half the bolts were finger tight at best). It should drive/steer 100% better than before.
After lunch we had other things to get done on the farm but late arvo we decided it was time to see if out trans tunnel and chassis rail 'massaging' was on the money.
So up and in she goes....
Like a glove.....
Happy we've got better clearance for the rhs extractors and steering and the engine is now clearing the clutch master cylinder much better as well. We wrapped extra heat wrap where the extractors pass the steering box as well. Happy to see progress although with lap dash 2 only 12 days away I'm losing hope fast. I'll get a full day at it Thursday without Oscars help so I think I'll know that night if I need to bother entering. The only car part I could find in Bali was a cheap rip off momo deep dish wheel
List of things to get it finished enough to race:
Fit trans cross member
Swap whole rear subframe/diff/fuel tank/tail shaft etc.
Fit exhaust
Fit radiator
Swap surge tank
Fit battery
Plug in/finalise wiring loom
Fit/attach all engine acc. Fuel, power steering etc.
Mount Ecu
Fit seat
Fit boot lid
Fit bonnet
Rough in and wire oil pres, water temp
Turn the key and see what happens.... I've got no hope
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Logic. I'm half tempted to do the SAU autokhana day in Shep, May 14th. You ever done one?
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Logic. I'm half tempted to do the SAU autokhana day in Shep, May 14th. You ever done one?
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Yep, Lap Dash 2 on the 3rd of April is the target. 1 month and counting
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Yep, Lap Dash 2 on the 3rd of April is the target. 1 month and counting
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So wedding been and gone, was a good night. Now back to the race car. Got the new clutch, was missing a few bolts so I'm happy I'll get a decent run out of it for $250. Stripping out all the interior, dash, heater box etc. swapping parts across one at a time, I've underestimated how much time this is going to take...
Finding better places to run wiring, mount ecu.
Got the trans housing welded up and a few new ramps and syncros ready to rebuild the box as good as new
Ground off all unnecessary bolts sticking out of the firewall that'll rip your hands up
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So stripping all pipes, clips, wires and anything in the engine bay that's sharp enough to cut your hands up (old mans pet hate).
We also deduced that at some point the trans had been removed without the engine coming out. When it went back in, a lot of the bolts towards the top never went back in. When it comes time to massage the trans tunnel we'll make sure we leave room to work on it down the track to put a new clutch in.
The extractors on the drivers side pass between the chassis rail and steering box with little clearance. The chassis rail gets a 'massage' to help there but the extractors were never bolted on 100% as the whole bank had soot marks out the top. Another thing to do better the 2nd time round
Also look to put another heat barrier between the extractors and steering box, car runs a power steering cooler, I assume this contributes.
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Can't afford a new/2nd hand t56 or new HD clutch so soon after buying this and so close to the wedding so for now it'll be new synchro and ramps ($91), weld up trans housing ($0 thanks uncle tony) and rebuild the tranny. As much as I know it's not the done thing to put a 2nd hand clutch and flywheel in, it's the only way I'll have the car racing this year so my brother is picking this up as we speak
Xtreme HD button clutch and flywheel that has apparently only done 1,000kms and then removed to go auto.
Paid $300
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The car is at my old mans farm, he's been a mechanic for 40years and is more into race cars than I ever knew. I've got a month off coming up to do a few things... Rebuild race car, get married, go o/s for honey moon, rebuild a race car!!! My old man has already put a few days spanner time into it, I only hope I get to put some time into it myself. I'm genuinely excited to learn first hand and get the car the way I want but I can't complain I guess.
Within an hour he calls me to say the engine and tran are out and he's found the issue.
There had been an issue previously with a stripped/broken bolt in the gear selection somewhere which had been solved with dropping an oversized bolt in and pointing a mig welder in the general direction
The bolt was catching 6th gear, munched away, filled the box with metal and eventually the weld let go. There was also the issue of burnt out clutch plate
f**ked flywheel
And a few bent fingers
Inside the t56 we've got to replace the 3rd/4th sycro and a few ramps as well as have my uncle (engineeer/engine builder) weld up so alloy in the trans housing and helicoil the plate back.
Not sure which issue came first and if it caused the others, doesn't really matter I guess. Time to get started
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The spec list from the blue skid pig which should translate to the rebuild minus a few kilos, plus a few functioning gauges.
LS1 R33
T56 gearbox
Extreme clutch
Cusco coilovers
Castor rods
Camber arms
Lengthened LCAs
Rear camber arm
Hicas lock bar
Cam spec half cage
Hydro handbrake
Surge tank
Bosch 040
Fuel pressure reg
Sparco harness
Fix back buckets
Oil cooler
Power steering cooler
New ss rad
Thermo fans
Baby cam
Drift wing
New push rods valve springs etc
Tuned at jaustech 260rwkw 756nm
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A few things that troubled me with the blue one helped me to the decision to do a reshell with the white one.
Blue one had a sunroof (that leaked) and fouled my helmet, boot leaked, every panel was rough as guts, wiring was non existent, no gauges worked, paint was awful... Etc.
So plan of attack;
Engine & tran out/indentify problem/fix
Put back in white one doing a better job
Swap all the good bits from one to the other
Deadline early April for second sprint event (away on honeymoon for first)
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So I did an khanacross/skid pan day, had a blast then put the semis on for a track day. First lap coming onto the main straight in third gear, nowhere near the limiter it revs out like it popped out of gear. I shifted to fourth... Nothing. I shifted to third... Nothing there. Assuming I've blown the box somehow I roll down the straight and around the corner and for some reason tried again to find another gear and away I went. Through the back onto the main straight and same again. Came good after 10 seconds, so next lap tried to short shift into fourth and crunch, couldn't get it in. Throughout the day I stuck with 1st through 3rd, even finding the limiter in 3rd if I eased through it and kept putting better laps down with the obvious handicap. Last sprint for the day, took off 1st, 2nd and leave it in third for the whole session, put some good laps in, my best lap even. Tried to downshift into the pits and couldn't, came to a complete stop and still couldn't hit any gear but third.
Limped it onto the trailer and off to the farm for major over haul
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The story. I am very late into the race car scene an was convinced by a mate to take his 33 to a track day and I was hooked from the first spool an had to have one. I've only ever owned one car (V8 67 fairlane I build 10 years ago with my dad) and as much as I loved the boost and chu chu, n/a V8 always made more sense for me.
I was selling cars at the time so over 6 months I bought/sold/traded my way to where I'm at now, rebuilding and reshelling an LS power r33. I initially bought this r33 from a guy in Ballarat
Which came with a free 33 rolling shell which I figured I could sell some parts off to buy more parts to eventually LS swap the silver car.
My mate half suggested leaving the shell behind but it turned out to be a wise decision to trailer it back to Wodonga. The trispoke wheel on the spare had proper semi slicks which I'm still getting use out of. The giant dual blade wing has since been swapped for a fibreglass flush mount boot etc.
I did a few track days in the silver 33, worked through a few issues it had and got a crash course in turbos. I then had an opportunity to buy/sell/trade up into a ready built 33 ls1 with two racing seats, serious roll cage, drift wing, cam, drift steering/suspension setup far cheaper than I could ever build myself
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Mitch's R33 Ls Track Car Rebuild
in Motorsport Builds
Posted
Local driver training track here in Wodonga, just an autokhana day