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2_Liter_Turbo

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Posts posted by 2_Liter_Turbo

    Garrett G Series

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted · Edited by 2_Liter_Turbo

    Has anyone mated a G30-770 to an SR20 and has put it to test yet? A G30-900?

    Doing research for my own road race / time attack RWD SR20VET project. My road race class limits me to about 500rwhp, but time attack class it's unlimited. I'm trying to find a turbocharger that gives me the ability to limit power but carry it through a wide powerband as well as letting it loose for time attack as much as it will give. Another turbo I was looking into was the EFR8474, but I was hoping to get some real world data/experience as all I have at the moment is paper and limited internet data.

    I have both N1 cams and Kelford 184-ST cams at my disposal. Head has full port and chamber work, larger valves, and hypertune manifold w/ Bosch DBW. Bottom end is not built yet, but I am heading toward a long rod 2.0L currently (considering 10:1 compression), but things may change in the future. Currently on AEM Infinity and tuning for E85.

    • Like 1

    RB26 Cylinder Head Options

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    I've been doing research on cylinder head tech lately, and most of the info I find is either spotty or conflicting, ha ha. Any solid tech resources available for my reading pleasure?

     

    The specific question I have at the moment involves which blank canvas to start with. I've read that the R34 NUR heads had some differences in water jackets for better cooling and air flow is a bit improved, but I can't find any definitive proof of that, or even an OEM part number other than the standard (11040-05U00). I've been thinking of ordering a new cylinder head to mate with my new N1 block (Planning on doing a Nitto 2.8 build), but I wanted to make sure I start out with the best OE head option possible (that's still available) before sending it off for machine work. Is there a different head available that's better? Or is it just internet lore and every RB26 has the same standard base cylinder head?

     

    2_Liter_Turbo's '90 TH1 Skyline GTR Build Thread

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    13 minutes ago, jmknights93 said:

    R32 GTR front lip never came out from factory in body colour. I have noticed over the years that the colour of the plastic changed from a darker black to a lighter grey colour though. Something other owners may have noticed also?

    Ahh, interesting. I heard that some '94s came with a smooth painted lip, but if it was textured, it came black or gray OEM. This one is definitely a lighter gray, the picture makes it look darker than it really is.

    2_Liter_Turbo's '90 TH1 Skyline GTR Build Thread

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    Found a brand new OEM Nissan front bumper and lip for a pretty good deal! My bumper and lip have some flaws that I didn't want to address when I get the car re-painted (factory color), so I picked these up instead. I've seen some other TH1 GTR's with a gray/black lip and I thought it looked pretty good, but I'm not totally sure if I want to go that route or paint it body color like my current lip. Did they always come body color from the factory? I'm open for discussion there.

    03-27-17_BNR32-BumperLip.jpg

    • Like 1

    RB Stroker Kit Reliability & Quality

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted · Edited by 2_Liter_Turbo

    3 hours ago, GD51LA said:

    you need to know your eventual goal first, if you want to be a competitive drag racer one day, then build 26/30-34, if you want to stay street the revier 2.8 is the way to go

    obviously can't beat the jap quality if you have the coin, otherwise the
    nitto/brian crower quality is also good

    Goals are for a high powered super fun street car. I may go to the drag strip once in awhile, but I am not after any records or competition. I road race my S14, so I have enough "race car" to keep me happy, ha ha. I just want a fun street car again. I am thinking of doing a single Borg Warner EFR 8374. But maybe an EFR 9174. I'd like to find what sort of powerbands people are getting with those on RB's before finally deciding.

    RB Stroker Kit Reliability & Quality

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    3 hours ago, GD51LA said:

    by the way my mate just bought a stroker sr20 crank from china and after picking it up from being tuned the bottom end shit itself, after the inspection the crank was to blame

    Know by chance which brand it was? I'd expect to hear BC, knowing their reputation for poor quality SR stuff (I've been doing SRs since '05, so I have more experience with them, RBs I'm new to, lol).

    RB Stroker Kit Reliability & Quality

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    6 hours ago, r32-25t said:

    I've seen a tomei making 475kw or 635 aussies hp at the wheels (will be more soon) and hasn't show any issues at all. 

    driving it, I love the way it drives down low and I never realized what I difference .2 of a liter could make

     

    can anyone confirm if the spool has the factory rod length?

    Is this your own car by chance? If so, how long/many miles have you had it?

    RB Stroker Kit Reliability & Quality

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    8 hours ago, LaurelPWR said:

    I've also wondered about the quality of crank shafts in the popular stroker kits as you can go on alibaba and buy one from China for thousands less then through a vendor like nitto or spool etc. and if theirs also come from China well I've seen plenty of high hp cars successfully running them emoji848.pngemoji848.png

    I would suspect the ones coming from Alibaba would be free of Nitto's/Spool's quality control (so possibly the rejected ones), so I'd steer clear of those! The factory's will do anything they can to make back what they can on rejected parts.

    RB Stroker Kit Reliability & Quality

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    RB Stroker Kit Reliability & Quality

    I've been searching for hours, and I probably still missed some good info, but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for.

    So I have a new bare N1 block. I want to do a 2.8 kit for my BNR32. I don't want to get into an RB26 Stroker vs RD28 or RB30 argument here, lol, I have my reasons for going the route I am, and would rather focus on the info I am after. 

    I mainly want to hear from people who have ran any stroker kit such as Nitto, Spool, JUN, Tomei, HKS, Etc (with mileage & power numbers if possible) their experiences in terms of driveability, power delivery (obviously dependent on turbos as well), and most importantly, reliability over time. I've been leaning towards Nitto, because I want to keep as long as a connecting rod as possible (I think the Spool 2.8 kit also has the factory length rod as well vs a shorter rod like the Tomei kit for example), for things such as increased dwell, decreased piston speed and side loading. 

    I've read that Nitto (and Spool) outsource some of the parts (the crank itself I believe) to China, which isn't necessarily a deal breaker, but it does leave me a little hesitant. With that said, I know the majority of "Japanese Brands" also outsource their manufacturing (primarily to Taiwan in my experience). It all really comes down to quality control, which is why I'd like to hear from owners of said stroker kits and engine builders who've installed various brands on their experiences.

    2_Liter_Turbo's '90 TH1 Skyline GTR Build Thread

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    Acquired a brand new N1 RB26DETT engine block from a friend of mine yesterday. It's the start to a very long road, lol. It'll sit for awhile, but I'm still pretty pumped about it! I haven't fully decided yet, but I've been eyeing the Nitto 2.8L 86.5mm bore stroker kit. The main reasons why I like the Nitto kit is that they retain the factory length rod (they move the wrist pin up) which reduces piston speeds (helps retain RPM characteristics of the RB26), decreases the rod angle (less friction and stress going sideways against the cylinder walls), and increases the dwell time (lets stuff burn more completely at high RPM), and you get a nice billet crank. Plus, the Australians are crazy, and I like crazy!

    03-21-17_N1Block.jpg

    • Like 2
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