hey_aleks

Nah I just bought a new one from a generic Auto Shop for $55, what condition is your old one in?

Sweet thanks for the advice, lucky I didn't put the engine back in... Have you done any welding work before?

Ah sweet it all fits Do you know how to treat any rusting stuff? I have some surface rust near one of my intercooler pipes and I'm not sure if I should just sand and primer or just leave it

Wow your intercooler holes are great bro well done... its good that you're planning ahead, alot of tuners don't like to touch turbo conversions because there's no air flow on dynos which increases the heat inside the engine bay (Fire hazard if parts and clamps aren't put on properly). Maybe put some rubber around the pipes where they enter the holes so they don't rub on the chassis (one of the tuners told me to do this). Did you manage to get the fmic in without removing the horns? I removed mine at the start and it doesn't look like they'll fit so I'm curious to see if yours will. Keep me updated buddy, we should all do like a mega thread when everyone is done.

And yeah there was a tiny bit of oil coming out of the turbo before I fixed my line up but it's perfect now. I've redone my setup a few times now (after a few 4 hour drives) just to check up on everything and so far it's going great. If you check up on stuff a few times after the conversion you can make sure everything is put on properly.

I thought you were gona use an r33 intake plenum my bad, if you use the n/a 34 one it'll be fine. I meant the coolant/oil lines for the turbo since I just saw stock hard lines in the pics but you've got the right idea anyways. I took my engine out since I'm doing a manual conversion, here are some way better pics which woulda been amazing when I was doing mine haha let me know if you need any more.

Nice intercooler choice, the return flow type will shorten your piping quite a bit. You're Gona need to make up some custom turbo lines as the metal ones won't have anywhere to go. Will you be using your r34 loom? I'm not too sure how that's Gona work as the r33 aac unit is much smaller and different to the r34 as it doesn't have the same loom plugs. Id say using your n/a manifold will be alright but you'll have to buy a 90° bend pipe because it'll hit the strut Tower if you use an rb crossover. Also this would remove the bov like you want to. I have heard that some people end up having issues with not using the bov (no damage, just the afm detecting more air through its sensor and adding fuel to compensate) but you should be fine. You should definitely run a boost gauge if you can. I realized yesterday that my plus T was only running on 4.5 psi as the boost tee was faulty. It already felt like day and night on that psi vs the n/a power. I could also see that I had a vacuum leak with the gauge as the needle was going down when I wasn't applying throttle. Ill have my engine out today since I'm doing a manual conversion so I should be able to get some nice pics.

Nah I only ever drive it in triptronic it definitely still works I'd die if it was just auto

Hey boys, not too sure what that piece is mate but I remember chucking a few useless pieces after removing my bumper since it didn't look like they had a purpose. This is what my setup looks like right now: -no bov -coolant feed line from the manifold has been blocked off since I'm already using the heater core -using the piece at the end of the GT y-piece as my throttle body (since the tps plugs are different on the gtt throttle body and our loom will only plug into the GT tps) -also have added a nipple after the Turbo elbow to support a boost controller which goes to the waste gate Just an update guys, there are a few fault codes which will probably have to get fixed by a tuner. The abs system and boost sensor pressure codes won't clear my ecu as the 34 has a boost pressure sensor on the cross over pipe where as I've tried the 33 one and the custom one I have on now. I do know for certain that the ecu is cutting power as the timing is all over the place so it is definitely a good idea to get is looked at by a tuner. However, I've gone on a few 2-3 hour drives (hitting boost non stop since im a chile) while also dailying the car and clocked 2000 kms and the car runs nicely. It does however idle high since the gtt manifold has a different cold start system but this can be resolved by a tuner maybe using a GT base image instead of a gtt one? In drive (auto for the time being), the car idles perfectly. Next thing to do is upgrade injectors, get it tuned on e85 for reliability and bloody install an lsd (single wheel burnouts are disgusting)

So there was already a circle on the passenger side of my engine bay so I used that. For the other side, I had to remove the windscreen bottle to move the battery over and cut a hole using an angle grinder so there was no size. I'll send a picture in a bit when I get to my car [emoji106]

Looks like you've got most of it sorted out [emoji106]. Probably don't need too much lighting as long as you have some portable lighting as well. Maybe it wouldn't be a bad idea to get the engine compression tested before the conversion to make sure it'll be 100% worth?

Yeah if you need to be done in 4 days I reckon start asap mate, never know what will come up when doing the conversion. I don't think a fmic is necessary if Canada doesn't get really hot so you could stick with an r33/34 smic but not sure what your plans are. Reply with all the parts you're using just so I can go over them and see what issues I had when putting my parts on. Also I'm getting my first tune done next week (been using the det ecu so far and it runs completely fine with some timing pulled back). I tecommend maybe looking into an e85 tune if you're getting a compatible fuel pump and 1000cc+ injectors. Otherwise just go with the stock parts, you'll definitely be happy with the power if all goes well mate.

Yeah I think doing It yourself is the better option as some people charge like $100 just to solder it. As for the tuning, fuel doesn't need to be altered just ignition timing so as long as they're a decently reputable tuner, they'd be able to sort you out. Nistune is very basic, just ring a few shops that you can find and explain the situation. They might even have another option for a piggy back.

All I did was just buy a GTT auto ecu with nistune already installed on it. You can either do that or just buy a GTT auto ecu and the nistune separately and either solder it on yourself or get someone to do it. The ecu part of the loom is exactly the same with the GT and GTT cars so it was plug and play. In Adelaide, most tuning shops do a combo where they install nistune on either your ECU or one of theirs and dyno tune your car for around $900-$1000 so probs best to ring a few and see what they think before buying anything. What state do you live in mate?

Not too sure on the dimensions mate but it looks to be fairly standard compared to my previous ones. I did end up cutting the reo bar but I'm pretty sure if you really wanted to, you could avoid doing so. There are some guides on the internet and maybe look at getting a return flow fmic? This removes the need to possibly relocate the battery or cut holes on the left side of the chasis.

Yeah basically ended up finishing all the big parts. Car drives great now, I do still have the check engine light though. Since I used the GTT intake system, my traction control and throttle motor sensor units are throwing faults (maybe because I'm still using the n/a ones with the turbo ecu). However this doesn't effect how the car drives. I've been doing test runs to see if anything leaks or overheats but it all looks good. Car just has boost in every gear and after owning many R33s, feels much snappier and drives differently to normal turbo engines. Still yet to get it tuned but at-least I am able to monitor everything through nistune so no damage can be caused. Awesome that you were able to pick up a front mount as well as the other parts, it's a big thing to get out of the way. I'd say my front mount inter-cooler was one of the toughest parts of the conversion. Getting it to clear the radiator fan while the bonnet was fully closed took a good day (I did end up just cutting the fan blades with a hack saw equally). I had to drill a hole next to the battery for the cool side of the fmic. A bit of custom work might be needed but you'll be fine. I'm going to start my brake conversion soon since you can definitely feel the n/a brakes being the weak point atm and also a tyre upgrade all around.

Nice pics mate good thing that you're planning things before putting them in unlike many others! The more stock hard lines that you can use the better the setup will be I reckon... In regards to the coolant return, make sure you check that once the coolant drain plug is removed, it actually isn't blocked off at the end. When I took mine off, I put a zip tie through and the tip became blocked off by something inside. I didn't really think to check if it maybe it drains vertically and there may be a hole below where the wall cuts off. Do some checks if ya can mate because if it does have a vertical drain hole, I'd be keen on doing mine the same way as yours! By the way I rang a few mobile bolt removers yesterday. If the drain plug for the oil in the turbo ends up causing issues, another option for us is to have the oil pan taken out. Once this is done, we need to also replace the oil pan gasket and do an oil change basically. Once it's taken off, we take the pan to someone who could tap and trill it for an oil return line which would work nicely in my opinion because the line would be quite vertical and run directly down to the pan. Another option would be to purchase a scavenge ($100 ish?) and have the feed be pumped through it back into the return plug which would reduce the chance of a blocked line due to insufficient downward gravity. However according to a few people, these pumps do tend to fail due to excessively heated oil so constant monitoring would be needed. Yeah I've decided to try and get the 33 crossover pipe just to see if there are any power gains/losses with the BOV connected and working. I do know that not having a BOV WILL NOT CAUSE ANY DAMAGE TO THE TURBO unlike what many people say on the internet so if you still want to go ahead with that it will be fine. You'll need to possibly craft up a custom intake pipe without the BOV lines if you're planning on not running one though. Keep me updated man looking good so far!

OH I thought it was exactly what you were buying haha Keep posting when you start putting stuff together or ordering parts so people can have a look at what we've done when they try turbo their 34. My oil drain seems to be running nicely now, no dripping but there is still oil in the turbo compressor at times but there is absolutely no shaft play. Let me know what your plans are

f**king scum

Hey mate sorry for the late reply, been quite busy. In the pic of that hose tail adapter, the nipple looks extremely small for the oil return. Just make sure it's the same width as the straight hose tail adapter since it needs to flow freely to the pan via gravity. Also when you start it for the first time basically just let it idle and watch for absolutely any oil leaks from the adapter, return hose and the oil pressure sensor we are tee'ing into. I did have some issues yesterday with my stuff leaking by I've tightened it all up and will have a look tonight after work to make sure it is all flowing correctly.

Basically I tightened it without the small black piece connected to it. After it was reasonably tight (Don't do it too tight, maybe around what the manifold bolts are tightened to?), I rotated it once until it was facing the direction I wanted it to. When you do run the car for the first time just let it idle and check every line you have changed for any leaks at all which need to be addressed before you attempt to drive the car. I also recommend getting a consult cable to see if there are any faults. For the oil return be extremely careful. On the NEOs, you have to use the plug which is left of the standard DET return plug. Oil goes back to the pan with the help of gravity, and only gravity. This means that it should be as vertical as possible or you WILL end up leaking oil when the line starts getting blocked (which happened to me). This line is completely different to the oil feed as it pumps it to the top of the turbo without the help of gravity. I'll send you a picture tonight of the oil return I am going to try and use.

Oh well it's good that you clarified that mate! Unfortunately I already spent quite a bit on another ecu and the piggy back . They didn't exactly say what the problems would be if they did piggy back it so I'm not entirely sure, maybe they are right. I'll update the info in the post though so if anyone else is doing the conversion, they don't change their ECU. Cheers mate! As for the dump pipe extension, I ended up just using the entire exhaust I had lying around from an R33 sedan which ended up fitting perfectly. For the extension, just go ahead and measure the distance from the dump to the catalytic converter. Then all you have to do is bring the cat or dump to an exhaust shop, tell them you need to extend it as it's a bit short due to being an R33 part and they can get that done quite easily. I nearly did this but realized that I'd be able to use my 33 exhaust.