hey_aleks

The standard GT N/A can be chipped but if it's auto it will cause issues (according to them). Since the module which controls the auto system is in the ecu itself (unlike the 33s where it's separate from the standard ECU), it will cause the system to play up. That's why you can't use some standalone ECUs because they don't have the auto system. Now this is going off of what the tuners and the person who programs Nistune have said so it might not be 100% right mate.

Yeah I wish someone had done one for an R34 when I began my conversion ... I work full time so the car was in the garage for 2 weeks (only worked on heavily on weekends and spent the week days getting parts). The reason why it took so long is because there aren't many exact guides or tutorials on the conversion and nothing is engine specific. It's kind of a blank area and I find it really hard following written guides without any pictures. Of course now I know the layout of my engine bay and most of its components. What I used to get a better understanding was the workshop manual for the NEO DE and DET I was told a lot of wrong info which caused extreme delays. A hug amount of turbo conversions are done on standard RB25DEs not NEOs and the blocks are indeed different. Two examples of being told incorrect information: I rang two tuners who apparently "specialize" in skylines and have done many +t tunes. Both told me that I was able to use the 33 auto turbo ecu to safely drive the car to their located and then they would install a nistune piggyback on my stock ECU for the tune. Once I corrected them after trying to fit it, they told me the standard 34 auto non-turbo ecu would be fine to drive it there and that they would proceed with installing the nistune piggyback once I had arrived. The night before my tune (I had to take the car there at 8:30AM), the tuner I chose to go with rang me up and said I had to get an R34 auto turbo ecu before the tune or it wouldn't be possible. Fortunately, he happily offered to sell me a $350 bone stock auto turbo ECU to proceed with the tune (still had to pay for the nistune and tune itself). Quickly told him to f**k off and have now chosen a tuner who was recommended by a mate. I was talking to two mechanics who deal with skylines all the time. One mechanic told me to ignore the water lines for the turbo as they aren't needed and he always sees skylines without them on stock and aftermarket turbos. This was my original plan as it made things so much easier. I then talked to a few other people who have a vast amount of experience with skylines and they quickly told me that ignoring the water lines was the stupidest decision and that the turbo would quickly seize. If I was to do it all again, I think I could do everything over a single weekend. Like I said the hardest part was setting up the turbo lines. I recommend making a plan before you start dismantling the engine and making sure that whatever engine you're turbo converting is the same as the guide you are following. Please guys if you have absolutely any doubts or want pics or need me to clarify anything, don't hesitate to text me on 0421 802 474 anytime....... When I started the conversion I hated bothering people with questions but I am not at all bothered to help anyone out and to help people learn from my mistakes.

Doing a +t conversion on an unopened RB25DE NEO (R34 GT) Just before I list everything that I have done so far (not finished yet), I'd like to say that I've only been doing my own work on cars for the past 3 months and am not very technically knowledgeable on the field. I have however been given a vast amount of advice from real tuners and mechanics who actually do the conversions. If i have done something incorrectly please tell me so that I can change it. These are the parts that I had to use: Parts (R33 GTS-T IMPUL used as a donor car): R33/R34 turbo manifold gaskets ($55) R33 RB25DET turbo manifold R33 RB25DET elbow compressor R33 RB25DET S1 turbo with R33 RB25DET dump pipe 30CM extension to make the dump pipe meet with the cat which can be substituted by having a long decat pipe created by any exhaust place if you want a louder system(Instead of this, I just used the entire exhaust system from my 33 IMPUL sedan) R34 GTT injectors on an R34 rail R34 RB25DE NEO intake manifold (Re-used manifold gasket) 255LP Walbro fuel pump (Why not use this chance to start fresh and upgrade a cheap part) Fuel filter replaced R33 RB25DET S1 AFM (had to re-wire this which is easily done as you just have to merge two ground wires) R34 GTT AUTO ECU (You CANNOT use a NON-R34 ECU on an R34 as the LOOM has a different ECU plug. Some people on the internet will just tell you to use an R33 ECU like they did tome which is completely wrong so be careful. Also if you have an AUTO you wont be able to piggy back off of the N/A ECU so you will have to purchase an AUTO TURBO ecu and hopefully put a nistune on it. The person who sold me the nistune pulled some ignition timing off to compensate for the high comp engine in order to safely get the car to a tuner or be drivable. If you do use a manual ECU your auto system will be f**ked. If you use a standalone ECU your auto system will be f**ked. All of this information was given to me by the person who programs the nistune units and a few tuners have also advised me of these issues) Currently I do not have a BOV being used. The R34 N/A intake manifold is much longer then the turbo ones which does not allow me to use an R33 cross-over pipe. I do have theR34 and R33 turbo manifolds in my garage but want to see if the y-intake will work without a BOV. If there are issues, I will install an aftermarket BOV somewhere along the piping. R33 RB25DET S1 Inter cooler (I am using all of the stock inter cooler piping for now except for fabricating another piece of pipe in order to compensate for the short cross-over pipe) R33 RB25DET S1 O2 sensor (I had to also re-wire this as it was attached to the dump pipe before installed. If you can take it off and put the R34 one on that would be the best option but this was not possible for me as I had already put everything back together and I don't want to break my hands taking it off) OIL FEED: What I did for this line was tee into the stock oil sensor right next to the standard oil filter location. A brass "T" piece placed between OIL sensor (right next to oil filter) which runs a braided hose line via the T piece to the top of the turbo. OIL RETURN: The NEO block does not have the standard return plug so around 30CM to the left of where the standard oil return plug should be, there is a hole blocked by a plug (similar to sump plug). What I have done is run a high pressure and heat resistant 300PSI hose from a replacement bolt which attaches to the hose and is clamped down, the stock metal piece (also clamped). I did have to use an angle grinder to shorten the piece which fits under the turbo in order to avoid too many bent lines. WATER FEED + RETURN: Both of these lines were used in conjunction with the heater hoses which are near the firewall above the O2 sensor (The hoses are a decent size and will most likely be covered by a silver heat protector). I put a plastic heat resistant "T" piece in between where I cut both hoses and am running two corner pieces which bolt on to the sides of the turbo. My shitty tips: Be ready to improvise Every conversion has been different and don't be afraid to get creative If you are doing the conversion and expect to be done in a few days please don't do it. Expect the worst (unless you are knowledgeable on engines and/or have done this before) I went into the conversion assuming my car to be not drivable for a few weeks so I put it in the garage with decent lighting Take your bonnet and front bar off as soon as you start Try and keep the car in a garage with good lighting as this helps SO MUCH YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND I WAS USING MY PHONE'S FLASHLIGHT FOR THE FIRST FEW DAYS f**k THAT SHIT Be prepared to get around 50 cuts per hand and literally shed blood, sweat and tears (if it doesn't start) Keep track of every bolt, nut, screw, hose, nipple, ground (EXTREMELY IMPORTANT) and have the work shop manual printed if you can which is extremely helpful The intake and turbo manifold bolts are recommended to be torqued to spec (which I did but they still felt quite loose to me so I decided to tighten them further. You shouldn't get snapping studs unless you tighten/loosen at an angle due to R34s being a bit younger but be prepared for this to happen as it is common and fixable) The reason for the conversion is to get some hands-on experience with an engine. I did have an RB25DET I could have engine swapped but where's the fun in that. Also the higher comp engines apparently hit boost extremely early on in the RPM range which I wanted to experience for myself The whole process would be 150X easier with the engine out of the car (not that hard of a process) For the turbo lines, take your hard lines and possibly the turbo to a specialized auto shop. For example, I took mine to Adelaide's OG speed shop and they were able to sort out some lines for me. They were not right the first time around (due to a misunderstanding on my end) so I did have to improvise with the water lines as straight bolts do not fit on the sides of the turbo and corner bolt on pieces are much easier. It's hard to explain the whole turbo line setup so the auto shops will be able to help. In my opinion the turbo lines are the only "hard" part of the conversion and getting the right configuration for these lines was definitely the hardest step for me.

Water feed/return: Both of these lines are identical for my setup (Using STOCK R34 GT NON TURBO INTAKE MANIFOLD) I've bought a meter of stainless steel braided hose for the setup (probably don't need that much but just in case something happens). The thread size going into the turbo is 18MM for these lines. This can either just be a straight piece or a corner piece which attaches to the braided line attachment. I am using a plastic (high pressure and heat) T piece to tee into the heater hoses aswell. So the T piece needs to be thick on the ends that we need to put through the heater hose and then the end that comes out needs to be able to fit inside of the braided line, but obviously be a bit tight. After draining your coolant, take off one of your heater hoses and go to a plumbing store with it and ask for a T piece which fits on both ends but also has an end for a hose (which will probably be around AN6 in size or AN8 (yellow = heater core hose, grey = braided line, red = piece that attaches to braided line, blue = adapter to fit a thread, black tip = thread going into turbo, black T = T piece).

Just an update, I went to OG speed shop (in Adelaide) and the older lady there is absolutely brilliant. Literally sat me down for 3 hours and worked out exact what lines, bolts and T pieces I needed for the setup. Here's the exact setup for anyone with an RB25DE NEO wanting to turbo: -OIL FEED: Brass tee piece placed in between oil sensor and block just next to the oil filter which runs to the top of the turbo through a braided line (AN8 SIZE LINE) -OIL RETURN: There's a bung (similar to the one when draining the oil from under the car) located to the left of the DET place. I'll be using an extended 300PSI high heat rubber hose which is extended to reach that location. -WATER FEED/RETURN: The heater hoses are literally to the right of where the turbo would be sitting so I'll be splitting these hoses and placing a brass T piece in between to run two braided lines to the turbo. I'm not 100% on the thread sizes and braided hose sizes so when I have all of the lines and bolts made (tonight) I'll post a pic and the exact length and thread size needed.

RB25DE+T NEO (R34) Hey lads, I'm currently in the process of turbo converting my R34 non-turbo sedan. I have an R33 GTS-T Impul that I'm using as a donor car. Here is the parts I am using for the conversion: R34 GTT Intake manifold (I was given the entire intake manifold with GTT injectors and plan to install the whole thing instead of just the injectors and it Is a bit different to my DE one so I'm not sure if this will cause issues) R33 RB25DET turbo manifold R33 RB25DET turbo and dump pipe Walbro 255LP pump IMPUL 33 auto ecu (just to take it for a drive after finished, will be using my stock 34 ecu with nisstune after my tune on the 13th of SEPT Now for my issue. Everything has been going good so far with no really complex issues except for the turbo lines. My NEO block has every water line plugged up with a metal plate and the oil feed is blocked off from the inside. I will be using the VTC plug which has a bolt in it for the oil return so that part is fine. I will also be putting a brass/metal TEE in between the oil sensor and the block and running a stainless steel braided line to the turbo from there for the oil feed. I have also been advised that I don't need water cooling as many people with stock turbos don't run them (a skyline mechanic told me this but i'm a bit cautious). So I was wondering how to exactly "tee" into the heater core for a water feed and water return as I've seen it suggested but have no idea how to do it. Any input to what I've done so far or my future plans would be greatly appreciated.