Monte0704

Stupid American here. I paid $29,000 AUS for mine. Happy as a clam.

Lol, thanks for the heads up. I have a sawzall. I'll figure it out haha.

The charcoal canister on a stock BNR32 has a fuel tank vent that runs along the firewall, by the clutch, and all the way back to the thingy in the picture. I want to delete as much as possible, so can I just cap the line coming from the tank, or is this breather line needed? Also I assume the little canister that looks like the ones on the fuel rail are just a check valve?

Which master cylinder are you using with that, and where did you buy the adaptor from? I can't find it

The idea would be to find a Wilwood master that has a threaded insert in place of the res.... then I can just tap that.

My Wilwood brake master has a nipple to feed the clutch master already. So that's the plan.

Oh, sorry guys. 1990 Nissan Skyline GTR with the clutch booster.

Clutch Master Cylinder Booster Delete Hey guys. First post. I've done a lot of reading and checking on pretty much every forum I can find, and I have yet to stumble across anyone who has completely gotten rid of the clutch vac booster. Plenty of people running without her hooked up, but no one has bothered to delete the booster altogether and replace the master. The idea is to delete the booster, install an after market clutch master with a remote res fitting, and use the brake master res to feed the clutch. That would tuck that clutch master into the firewall, and eliminate the res. Just wondering if anyone has any info whatsoever, or am I going to be the first to adapt a 300zx TT (or GTST) Clutch slave to remote type non-boosted?