wadedos

I have an awd rb25det s1 stagea with a 23740 0V300 ECU. The ecu unfortunately got really wet and would start but engine light was on, ran like shit, no consult connection could be made. Got a 23740 0V3010 to replace it, engine starts and runs mint, like the previous one did without check engine light and consult connection can be made. How ever with the new ecu i now have the 4wd light and abs light on dash. Have checked 4wd computer for flashing codes and though consult got nothing. Does anyone have any ideas, suggestions. Thanks in advance.

I brought a rb25det freddy ffp with no intake bolts / studs. Does anyone have any idea what length bolts are required ? As the stock ones are too long.

I brought a s1 wgnc34 with a neo motor. The rb25 s2 vct solenoid has been used instead of a neo. Will the rb25 s2 vct solenoid actually enable the neo vct. Should I just get a neo solenoid. Thanks in advance.

I know that the caster will be different, it this a normal thing to do ? Supposedly people do it to counter the slight left pull from driving on the left side. Any ideas on how you adjust them, the centers feel pretty solid ?

R33 adjustable caster bushes Just got a some caster arms with adjustable bushes. Any ideas which bush is suited for which side of the car. Edit: I have read + is for the passengers side and - is for the drivers side. I have assumed the one closest is the passengers and the one furthest away is the drivers side. Can someone confirm this

I don't think the misfire and pop is anything to do with the timing, as at 15* on 9 to 10 PSI it still does it. Just on 20* it overboosts way past the set boost. So I cant even floor the car to red line. It will idle at 650 at 15* but hunts a wee bit. If I raise the idle, it is abit smoother. But the car is so loud. So I prefer it lower.

There is no problem with 9 - 10 PSI. I just cant understand when its set to 15. It will only boost to the desired set level perfectly. When set to 20, it just completely overshoots the set level around 4.5K. It would actually probably keep boosting past 9 - 10 PSI, but I will take my foot of as it starts to break up pretty quickly. Sound to me like its missing ? Like it popping and cant boost any more. The missing problem is another problem for another thread.

Yeah I know. I'm a bit unsure, and confused. It's just really odd. I have just set it to 15 at the moment. Is this going to seriously retard it ? It actually seems like it pulls harder and sharper on 15, compared to 20. How would I know if its pinging or detonating ? would it be audible ? I have a Power FC with Hand controller, just haven't put it in as I would need to get it tuned, which seems a bit pointless with the stock injectors and turbo. Need to upgrade.

My ECU is 23710-13U10. Which is an auto ? Over boost hard I mean by setting 7 PSI for the low setting on my EBC, it spikes to 9 to 10 PSI. Which is almost 3 PSI difference. I even tried connecting the wastegate actuator straight to the vacuum line and still over boosted. With the timing set the 15, this never happens.

Cheers mate, I wasn't too sure. I have tried both 15° and 20°. When I had set the timing to 20°, it idled way better and crackled and popped when decelerating. But when flooring it, the turbo over boosted hard ? Like was hitting 9 - 10 psi at 5k+ RPM Then setting it back to 15 ° it would run better and hold the boost defined my by blitz sbc. But idled quite rough. Is this normal for it to over boost when running 20° ?

Ignition Timing for RB25DET Manual with Auto ECU I have a 1996 ECR33 GTS25T RB25DET which was a factory automatic. It has been converted to a manual but still has the auto ECU. The previous owner had apparently removed the CAS to supposedly check the cambelt, then installed it centre. Now my question is for you guys, is what is the actual base timing degree to set ? I have read that is supposed to be 10*,15*,20* for an auto ? So what is the actual base ignition timing degree value to set for an auto ECU or is the same as the manual ECU ? Thanks in advance