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Hello, Can anyone share base pfc maps for rb25det neo (ER34 GT-T)? I have ENR33 with rb25det neo from WGNC34 (engine is the same as ER34 has). I already get a ECR33 power fc for it (all harness in my car is ECR33-s2-like) but since the camshaft specs for NEO are different i want to change base maps from ECR33 to ER34. The base maps for ECR33 may also be useful cause my pfc (used item) was tuned with cable software for a modified ECR33 and i want to check that my pfc was fully initialized to use base maps. I find only base IGN map from paulr33`s faq -- thanks Paul. Thank you in advance.

afaik with gt-r cams you`ll loose variable timing for intake camshaft.

yes, they are different. What i know: - auto has idle up while not getting N-switch signal. - auto retards timing at high revs waiting for gear-change from auto-box. I`m sure in first and almoust sure in second. p.s. btw even Nissan says that R33 auto has 245 bhp and R33 manual has 250 in stock.

i have a similar problem. Nismo single plate strengthened push type clutch cover, rb25det, 4wd. A few days ago the pedal begin to produce a squeeking/creekingsound especially after warm-up. i don`t have a solution yet.

imho the problem is blown head gasket . Usually overheating leads to this. Check for bubles in the antfreese tank while reving the engine + if your antifreese disappears without leaks -- that`s it.

Hello, What variants of EGT probe installation are possible for RB25DET? Those who have EGT gauges -- what readings do you have and what is location of EGT probe in your cars? I just recieved my Greddy gauges and installed everything except EGT probe, i`m planning to do it this weekend. I know few loactions that EGT probe can be installed: Before th turbocharger: - Exhaust manifold runners junction (recommended by Greddy in the manual and also recommended by some tuners on the net for good accuracy) - Exhaust manifold 5 or 6 cylinder runners as they must be the hottest as they are most far from the pump (am i right in this thinking?) - Turbo housing, right after the junction with the exhaust manifold (also recommended by Greddy and some tuners) After the turbo -- in the downpipe somewhere near O2 sensor. This way is not good as the temperature readings will be much (100-200 C) lower and also the gauge reaction will be slow. The problem with the installation before the turbo is the sensor durability -- sometimes it burns out right into the turbo -- sure it will damage it. So what location do recommend? What EGT readings do you have? What EGT is critical for RB25DET?

Hello, I am looking for aftermarket ECU to control ECR33 after boost-up. I think that best option is PowerFC but it is strange for me that there is only one model of PFC for all ECR33s. As far as i know S1 and S2 have different not compatible ECUs -- why there is only one type of PFC? The second problem is different crank angle sensors -- i have the latest "hitachi" (black, plastic case) sensor also used in NEO engines. I`m not sure PFC can work with this sensor. The last problem is that my car is 4wd and i will definately have the same problem as those A-LSD featured ECR33s as control systems are identical, but there is a solution by paulr33 in DIY section. Maybe there is Series 2 ECR33s with NEO crank sensor running with the Power FC? Is it possible? Thank you in advance.

gt-r front knuckles are bolt-on, but not rear. to fit rear hubs from bnr you will have to change driveshafts and knuckles.

oh, i forgot: the fuel evaporation system (black canister near to the air filter box) still isn`t functioning. It is ECU controlled in NEO -- so now control valve is closed all the time, but i`m sure i can make it work -- the problem is i don`t feel anything negative (gazoline smell in hot wheather) -- so there is no motivation to fix it .

there was no time to make any pictures, sorry. there is a small video of the first start made by a cell phone, awfull quality. Car runs better than before (i feel good torque from 2500 rpm) but sure it can do it better . The nearist todo: to swap exhaust to a stock turbo version or some jdm cat back exhaust (i`m not sure my wife will like it ) -- N/A exhaust is evil on a turbo car. After that i`m planing to do some dyno measurements. Cheap mechanical boost gauge shows 0.25 kpa before 4500 rpm and 0.5 after boost solenoid engages, but i`m not sure it is accurate enough -- i`m looking where to purchase defi or apexi gauges.

i`m in russia now -- never visited AU, but maybe some day i can do this idle is the same as it was on rb25de -- about 700 rpm when hot. it still reacts with higher rpm for power steering load, but there is a slight drop in rpm when a/c engages -- but just for a second -- after that aac increases rpm fo normal level. neo engines have mechanical valve for adding rpm under ps load, but there is no place to fit this valve in r33. well, u can fit the power steering high pressure pipe with this valve into r33 and it will work. unfirtunately this pipe was damaged in the accident in the stagea i took engine from.

my swap is finished now . It take me from 15:00 Friday to 16:00 Sunday without a rest, just a few hours of sleep right in the garage . rb25det neo inside. Parts needed: - rb25det neo with the same final ratio in the front diff as it is in the rear - airbox for air filter from a turbo car (or you can use a pod filter) - intercooler with pipng - frontpipe from a turbo car (the rest of the exhaust system will work but it is wise to change it for turbo parts, i will do it in the nearist future) - harness for boost solenoid and boost solenoid itself (enr33 has this harness in s1 versions, but there is no one in s2) - adsorber canister from a turbo car (or a one-way valve in it`s pipng) - a pipe for a vacuum brake booster (NEO has an outlet pipe on the manifold in the other direction) but u can modify the stock enr33 pipe, but remember that it has a one-way valve in it. - ecr33 ecu suitable for your crankshaft position sensor (i have hitachi black sensor same as neo has on my rb25de). Note that afaik mitsubishi and hitachi sensors have different fittings, so they can be used only with the same camshafts. i think this is all, may be i forgot smth. what was done: - right part of front suspension disassembled as i don`t know other way of taking out right driveshaft. - gearbox removed -- maybe someone can take a 4wd engine out with it still in the car but we couldn`t. - all auxiliary devices where transfered from the old engine. - oil pressure sensor, O2 sensor, TPS (needs mechanical modifing because it interfere with the TCS housing on the NEO, but don`t use NEO TPS sensor as it has different resistance -- it cost me an hour of thinking what is wrong with the car ), all other sensors are the same. - there was harness work for vtc, aac, boost control solenoid and i think this is all. there is no need to connect "air regulator" used for cold start -- it is fully mechanical on the neo. the only thing that i miss is the FICD solenoid -- so i have a small drop in rpm when a/c engages. i think this is all you need to know . this is not very hard -- the hardest part was to install the gearbox.

u can read the bnr32 manual available on the net -- it`s stated there. Matic D is for transfer case but not for attesa.

hnr32 (gts4) and previous-term bnr32 (gt-r) boxes are both push-types, from 1993 all bnr boxes are pull-type. There is a difference in gear ratios -- bnr box has 1,2,3,5 gears "longer" cause it is more suitable for high torque engine. afaik both boxes are equally strong and there is no differences in reliability. p.s. since bnr32 and hnr32 have different final gear ratio -- they should have different speedometer gears in transfer case and different speed sensors. i`m not sure -- it is wise to check it with NISSAN FAST.

ATTESA fluid is "Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special". p/n is KLF30-00004 for 4l can or KLF30-00001 for 1l can.

Thank you, i`ll report here after finishing swap. p.s. i`ve changed oil sump assy (oil sump is assembled with the front diff) already -- so i now have final ratio 4.363 both front and rear. It is very short ratio, bad for highway and fuel economy, but good for city and fast launches

I have NA R33 GTS4. RB25DE, 4WD. I`m doing most of the job myself cause i don`t trust anyone -- i`m sure i can do it better

Hello, i have ENR33 too and finished 5-stud conversion a month ago. That`s what you have to know: front: - you can not fit gtst hubs since we have 4wd cars. You have to look for complete knuckles from HNR32, BNR32/33/34, WGNC34. It is mush easier to change the knuckle complete assy. The other way is to buy 5stud hubs and new wheel bearings and leave your knuckles but changing wheel bearings is a big work. - use bolts from your car for the calipers. - caliper options are: "sumitomos" from HCR32, ECR33 (BNR32 early model) or even brembos from BNRs, but they are expensive. Using HCR32 calipers can be done even if you leave your 4-stud disks -- they are for small disk. - to fit the brake lines you will have to shorten enr33 caliper bolt or use a bolt for Toyota (p/n 9040110045) -- it is short by default and has the same thread pattern. This is the easiest way, but the right way to fit the brake lines -- is to use metal tubes from BNR33 or HNR32 or smth like that. There is no need to change rubber hoses. - don not try to disassemble calipers (4 bolts on the caliper) -- there is no need for this and it will leak if you do this. I`ve changed front brakes and knuckles in 4 hours both. I had knuckles from HNR32 and rotors and calipers from ECR33 + toyota eye-bolts for banjo connection. rear: Your options are: complete knuckle set from 5-stud _non_ hicas Skyline -- hard to get. HICAS knuckles has different bearings, shock absorber connection -- they aren`t bolt-on. The best way is to find iron (not alluminum) knuckles from old (i think 89-91 year) hicas hcr32 -- the wheel bearing can swapped right to enr33 knuckle. This was my way to do it. Just undo driveshaft nut and 4 bolts holding the bearing -- and exchange bearings with the hub. It was hard to undo anchor pin nut and it was real hard to remove the bearing from the knuckle because of rust -- WD40 and a sledge hammer will help you. The handbrake swaps without problems, don`t forget to release handbrake adjustment nut inside the car before you disassemble rear brakes. Brake piping depends on what calipers you will have. ENR33 hose is female on the car side and banjo on the caliper side. When you will be bleeding the system -- disconnect the battery negative terminal. It take a full day for me to swap all brakes. p.s. i was lucky my enr33 come from Japan with 4/5 holes aftermarket disks -- so i left my summer wheels, but i still have to find a new winter wheels

Hello, i`m about to do such conversion in the near future. I have S2 ENR33`97. It already has ENR34 manual box and ECR33 5stud brakes -- so now its gonna be the final step. Engine was purchased this winter from the accidental auto WGNC34. It is RB25DET NEO RC4.083. Already done: - Oil sump changed (i didn`t want to disassemble my engine so i get a spare ENR34 oil sump with the same RC4.363). - Timing belt, belt bearings, oil seals and water pump changed 4 new. - stock ECR33 intercooler installed. - stock ECR33 airfilter box installed (stock ENR33 will interfere with the intercooler outlets), you can use low resistance filter like Apexi instead. - fuel pump changed to stock WGNC34 25DET TODO: - Pull out bitchy auto pilot bearing (i`ve done this once during manual conversion, but it was a bad way of doing this ) - Change ignition plugs. - Maybe change high-pressure tube for power steering -- if i will find one undamaged for R34 (NEO has a mechanical valve for adding some air during idle when PS loads engine -- R33 pipe has no place for such valve) and finally swap it! The problem is that new engine is NEO -- it is quite difficult to use NEO ecu and harness at R33. I will try to leave my R33 harness and use stock ECR33 ecu. The questions that are still open is wiring for: - TPS (will try swap TPS sensors) - AAC/FICD system (quite different systems, not sure yet) - VTC solenoid (will try rewiring) - Boost solenoid (funny, but ENR33 has harness for it, but NEO connector differs, will try to rewire) - FPCM -- optional, car can run without it, will try ti fix it later with parts from WGNC34 I think this is all you need to know for a swap . Ask me a question a couple of weeks later -- maybe i will finish my swap. p.s. Don`t forget about exhaust -- afaik exhaust can be used from ENR33 from cat, before the cat (downpipe, frontpipe) exhaust system is 25DET unique. It is strongly advized to change exhaust to 25DET fully cause N/A system will affect the engine perfomance.

23710-21u01 is a manual s1 ECU

Hello, I have ENR33 with stock brakes and 4-stud wheels. I`m upgrading it to 33 gtst front and 32 gtst -- rear. The problem is that my brakes now have a "banjo" connection to the calipers (with an eye and a bolt) -- and _i_know_ that this will not work with the new calipers -- so the question is what lines will fit? Enr33 has the most complicated brake line to the front wheels (hose-tube-hose) -- even bcnr33 are more simple . For now i think that hnr32 final tube (not hose, just metal tube) will fit between new caliper and old hose -- can anyone comment on this?

hi, i just finished manual conversion of gts-4, enr33, so i got some info about auto wiring. There are four groups of wires coming out the re4r01a rc43 (4wd) -- 2pin connector with thick wires -- inhibitor switch, 8 pin grey connector -- A/T indicator (PRND...), 8 pin red connector -- different auto stuff (solenoids, lock-ups, T sensors etc), 3 pin connector -- revolution sensor (it is not vehicle speed sensor, it goes in separate 2 wires into the engine loom). All four connectors are connected to main harness under the hood near the black relay box (behind right headlamp). i think it is smth like this: 2 pin inhibitor switch connector just opens starter relay circuit and i think nothing else. grey 8 pin connector wires goes to the dashboard and then -- into the auto computer. red 8 pin and 3 pin go straight into the auto computer. There is a gtr32 manual available for download everywhere -- there is a wiring diagram covering bnr32 and hnr32 4wd vehicles -- the second car was also available with auto box, so there is auto harness in this diagram.

When you use this switch -- is ABS still operating?

Nissan Matic D (Dexron II/III analog as i think), Nissan PSF and Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special are different fluids. See http://www.nissan-sp.co.jp/oil/ for details, there are some pics of OEM fluids on this page. It`s written in japaneese, use online translators for reading. The p/n for Nissan PSF Special also known as "attesa operating fluid" is: KLF30-00001 or KLF30-00004 (the last figure is for can capacity in liters). While preparing to manual conversion I`ve ordered 4l of this fluid at auto.vl.ru -- i`m not sure this link can be usefull outside of Russia, but you can try to order it somewhere in Japan using the right partnumber.

Hello, I`m about to do manual conversion of my 1997 ENR33 (GTS-4, RB25DE) (yeah, i used search, but some questions still remain). Now i have a kit of: - brake and clutch pedals from HR33, RB20E - cluth master cylinder and pipng from RB20E - ENR34 manual g-box + stock clutch + ENR34 flywheel + clutch slave cylinder - rubber boot + console shifter cover - 4l of Nissan PSF Special (ATTESA fluid) - spigot bush + various nuts and bolts. The mechanical part of conversion is not a problem. The problem is electrical part. I know that i have to shortcut the inhibitor relay for engine to start. Also, i need to ground pin N44 (neutral switch) cause it affects the ignition timing somehow (what is it for?). And also i have to wire in the speed sensor. Questions: 1. i can`t find full wiring diagram for R33, especially for 4wd one`s. What are the wire colours that i need for neutral switch, reverse lights and speed sensor? 2. What wires must be connected for proper work of ATTESA E-TS? 3. Can i use ECU from N/A MT R33 Skyline without ATTESA on my GTS-4 straight bolt-on? Or i need a special one for GTS-4 with ATTESA support? 4. Can i leave my AT dashboard after installing the MT5? Will the speedometer show correct speed? The final drive ratios in AT and MT ENR33 are equal. p.s. thank you in advance and sorry for my english -- it`s not my native language.