eXc
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Posts posted by eXc
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For an R32 RB20 you don't need to remove half the stuff listed. I just pulled off one side of the 2 small vacuum lines and the larger lines with the T-piece. The only tricky bit is working around the loom which runs over the top over the unit. Oh and dropping the bolts down into the manifold
.Hence me saying...
"2) Have a look, and work out if you can get to it as is. I couldn’t; so I chose to remove the following, you can skip ahead if you think you can get to it without removing them."
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Sorry for the thread dig. I was asked about this recently and just found this thread.
Forgot to post back saying drifting without the baffle was fine. Drifted for another year before I sold it.
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Loosen it like 1/4 of a turn. They are done up really tight and when you pull them off you can't get them loose. If you undo them too much, you will bend the rods.
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I would have measured both off the terminal and from an earth.
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I have heard that at low throttle position (less than 10%?), the voltage drops to 6V to cut noise down. Is this true? If it is this may be the reason some peoples pumps don't last long as they are burning out if they are using the factory wiring to power the pump.
Mine was around 12v mark at idle...so i don't think that is true, unless it drops voltage when you throttle it a bit, which I doubt... measure it for us and let us know,.
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pretty sure you need to have the rod / ends in as well, then they will stop it spinning. Crack the big nut, then remove the whole lot again. dont do more than crack it, as you will bend the rod if you take it out while its still on.
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It's cause you didn't crack them while it was mounted...
3) You are using car stands aren't you? Good...Use the BIG shifter or the correct size spanner if you have it (Which I doubt unless you're a trucky) to crack the rod end. DONT screw them out all the way unless you have the outside end of the tie-rods off.
You will need to mount them back on, or find a way to crack them hard and fast so it doesn't spin (ie. it's like needing a rattle gun on a pully)
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Looks right to me, just undo the rods from the HICAS and put them into the lock bar
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Good to see a tutorial on this but there are several issues I see over looked all the time.
A. 040 and 044 are massive over kill unless you are looking at supplying fuel for a hugely powered car. (in which case, an in tank simple set up is lacking in every department)
B. no check valve on either of these pumps. So as soon as you stop the car, all pressure is lost.
C. I don't think I've had an R32 that you could bend the pump seat down and fit it back in
D. this mounting style will be tremendously noisey.
Not being a smart arse! just trying to give info that I have come accross the hard way. I recently revised my in tank bosch set up but the pics are on my work computer. I'll get them up soon.
Thanks for the comments, other peoples experiences are always good when doing something like this. My views however;
A) It's what 'everyone' on the forums here seemed to go for, which is why it continues to be a popular choice (even though now I'd say buy a walbro, cheaper, i had less problems and it would fit in the standard mount)
B) No idea about that, but it didn't cause me any problems - Unless that had something to do with me going through 2 of these pumps...the walbro never had a problem... so it could be? not sure why I went through 2 Bosch's cause the tank was not contaminated.
C) Like I said in the tutorial, you need to cut it down.
D) Wasn't noisy for me at all. The Bosch was much louder than the Walbro however.
Cheers
Chris
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The pipe on top of the pump should be in pretty well the same spot as the old one, take a look at the pics in the first post, it should fit?
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I've got the pink slip
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I will sell it with a pink slip for $7000 before I get it rego'd... save me the cost of getting the rego done.
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1989 R32 GTS-T 4 Door - Manual
$8,500 ono NO SWAPS - I am selling to buy a house.
Located in NEWCASTLE, NSW
Post here, PM or call 0412 495 958 for more information,
Rego Till March 09
Has close to $9,000 of mods
HSD HR suspension (~30,000kms old)
Kazz 2 way diff (~20,000km old)
Adjustable Castor bushes
Adjustable front upper arms (Midori Style)
3" dump + high flow metalcat
R33 GTST Turbo (155WRKW @ 11psi)
Splitfire Coil packs
Walbro fuel pump
FMIC
Mechanical Boost Controller (doesn't spike)
Oil Cooler
HKS boost gauge
water/oil temp + oil pressure gauges
Air con regassed and new seals
HICAS Lock bar
new rack ends front and rear
spacers for more steering lock
Had timing belt/water pump done about 40,000kms ago (when i first bought it)
Engine oil changed with motul 4100 turbo light every 5000kms and/or every track day. as was gearbox/diff oil
Rebuilt gearbox (all bearings)
New tyres all round - 17" Federal 595, mis matched Volk Rims. GTP's on front, CV Pro on rear.
Alarm + Keyless Entry
Only issues that I am aware of with it;
- Paint – Front left guard clear coat is coming off and front bar is pretty sad from arguments with sand traps –it’s not broken, just paint.
- There are like 2 or 3 hail damage spots on the roof, not bad, but they are there.
- There is a decent scratch on near the fuel filler, it was there from Japan.
- There is a ‘dent’ in the rear bar on left. It's hardly noticable, it is down very low.
- Steering wheel has significant wear on it. But I'll throw in a Nardi Classic, but you'll need a boss kit.
- A few very small rust spots on roof
- Passenger front door needs a certain technique to unlock, I don't know anything about locking mechanisms or I would have fixed it
I also have a log of all kilometeres and maintanence on the car.
For high quality photos follow these links (3-4mb each)
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/001.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/002.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/003.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/004.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/005.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/006.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/007.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/008.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/009.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/010.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/011.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/012.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/013.jpg
Cheers
Chris
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I'd be guessing it will eat it...
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still for sale
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Thanks Tez,
I will check them out. I have heard about taking all the heavy keys off the ignition key as well. That is a general principle, not just to Honda
Cheers
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Hi Guys
A friend has a 1989 honda accord. He got it from his sister. I know virtually nothing about the car. I haven't physically looked at it yet (will be tommorow)
However he tells me it will start (well..it did months ago) but the key will not stay 'on' it drops back to acc or off, turning the car off.
Would anyone have any idea where to start to fix this? If I crack open the key console, will I be able to fix it? or is it in need of replacing the key console?
They were told it has "electical problems" but this doesnt seem like an electrical problem as such to me, so I am expecting a lot more
Any advice welcome
Cheers
Chris
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Still for sale
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Price drop to $9,500 , but I can't edit my posts to change it ?
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Anyone have any offers? I am open to negotiation
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1989 R32 GTS-T 4 Door - Manual
$10,500 ono
Located in NEWCASTLE, NSW
Post here, PM or call 0412 495 958 for more information,
Rego Till March 09
Has close to $9,000 of mods
HSD HR suspension (~30,000kms old)
Kazz 2 way diff (~20,000km old)
Adjustable Castor bushes
Adjustable front upper arms (Midori Style)
3" dump + high flow metalcat
R33 GTST Turbo (155WRKW @ 11psi)
Splitfire Coil packs
Walbro fuel pump
FMIC
Mechanical Boost Controller (doesn't spike)
Oil Cooler
HKS boost gauge
water/oil temp + oil pressure gauges
Air con regassed and new seals
HICAS Lock bar
new rack ends front and rear
spacers for more steering lock
Had timing belt/water pump done about 40,000kms ago (when i first bought it)
Engine oil changed with motul 4100 turbo light every 5000kms and/or every track day. as was gearbox/diff oil
Rebuilt gearbox (all bearings)
New tyres all round - 17" Federal 595, mis matched Volk Rims. GTP's on front, CV Pro on rear.
Alarm + Keyless Entry
Only issues that I am aware of with it;
- Paint – Front left guard clear coat is coming off and front bar is pretty sad from arguments with sand traps –it’s not broken, just paint.
- There are like 2 or 3 hail damage spots on the roof, not bad, but they are there.
- There is a decent scratch on near the fuel filler, it was there from Japan.
- There is a ‘dent’ in the rear bar on left. It's hardly noticable, it is down very low.
- Steering wheel has significant wear on it.
- A few very small rust spots on roof
- Passenger front door needs a certain technique to unlock, I don't know anything about locking mechanisms or I would have fixed it
Yes it has been used for drifting. It has been very well looked after and my friends think I'm a girl cause I baby it on the track. haha. I also have a log of all kilometeres and maintanence on the car.
Low Quality Photos attached, for high quality photos follow these links (3-4mb each)
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/001.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/002.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/003.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/004.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/005.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/006.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/007.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/008.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/009.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/010.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/011.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/012.jpg
http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/013.jpg
Cheers
Chris
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sorry - i said 044 in one post and didn't realise...it was 040's I was using (and is the topic of this thread) I can't edit my post for some reason to fix ...oh well
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V-E-D-A To Override Revs
in General Automotive Discussion
Posted · Edited by eXc
Sorry for the revival.
I have put in 2x R33s and neither are valid. (at least I didn't have to pay yet!)
I ended up phoning them, and they then passed through the VIN so I can now search online....so long story short, if it doesnt work - call them, and if you are selling, maybe call them before your buyer cant find the info and walks away