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Sorry for the revival. I have put in 2x R33s and neither are valid. (at least I didn't have to pay yet!) I ended up phoning them, and they then passed through the VIN so I can now search online....so long story short, if it doesnt work - call them, and if you are selling, maybe call them before your buyer cant find the info and walks away

Hence me saying... "2) Have a look, and work out if you can get to it as is. I couldn’t; so I chose to remove the following, you can skip ahead if you think you can get to it without removing them."

Sorry for the thread dig. I was asked about this recently and just found this thread. Forgot to post back saying drifting without the baffle was fine. Drifted for another year before I sold it.

Loosen it like 1/4 of a turn. They are done up really tight and when you pull them off you can't get them loose. If you undo them too much, you will bend the rods.

I would have measured both off the terminal and from an earth.

Mine was around 12v mark at idle...so i don't think that is true, unless it drops voltage when you throttle it a bit, which I doubt... measure it for us and let us know,.

pretty sure you need to have the rod / ends in as well, then they will stop it spinning. Crack the big nut, then remove the whole lot again. dont do more than crack it, as you will bend the rod if you take it out while its still on.

It's cause you didn't crack them while it was mounted... 3) You are using car stands aren't you? Good...Use the BIG shifter or the correct size spanner if you have it (Which I doubt unless you're a trucky) to crack the rod end. DONT screw them out all the way unless you have the outside end of the tie-rods off. You will need to mount them back on, or find a way to crack them hard and fast so it doesn't spin (ie. it's like needing a rattle gun on a pully)

Looks right to me, just undo the rods from the HICAS and put them into the lock bar

Thanks for the comments, other peoples experiences are always good when doing something like this. My views however; A) It's what 'everyone' on the forums here seemed to go for, which is why it continues to be a popular choice (even though now I'd say buy a walbro, cheaper, i had less problems and it would fit in the standard mount) B) No idea about that, but it didn't cause me any problems - Unless that had something to do with me going through 2 of these pumps...the walbro never had a problem... so it could be? not sure why I went through 2 Bosch's cause the tank was not contaminated. C) Like I said in the tutorial, you need to cut it down. D) Wasn't noisy for me at all. The Bosch was much louder than the Walbro however. Cheers Chris

The pipe on top of the pump should be in pretty well the same spot as the old one, take a look at the pics in the first post, it should fit?

SOLD

I've got the pink slip

I will sell it with a pink slip for $7000 before I get it rego'd... save me the cost of getting the rego done.

Bump

1989 R32 GTS-T 4 Door - Manual $8,500 ono NO SWAPS - I am selling to buy a house. Located in NEWCASTLE, NSW Post here, PM or call 0412 495 958 for more information, Rego Till March 09 Has close to $9,000 of mods HSD HR suspension (~30,000kms old) Kazz 2 way diff (~20,000km old) Adjustable Castor bushes Adjustable front upper arms (Midori Style) 3" dump + high flow metalcat R33 GTST Turbo (155WRKW @ 11psi) Splitfire Coil packs Walbro fuel pump FMIC Mechanical Boost Controller (doesn't spike) Oil Cooler HKS boost gauge water/oil temp + oil pressure gauges Air con regassed and new seals HICAS Lock bar new rack ends front and rear spacers for more steering lock Had timing belt/water pump done about 40,000kms ago (when i first bought it) Engine oil changed with motul 4100 turbo light every 5000kms and/or every track day. as was gearbox/diff oil Rebuilt gearbox (all bearings) New tyres all round - 17" Federal 595, mis matched Volk Rims. GTP's on front, CV Pro on rear. Alarm + Keyless Entry Only issues that I am aware of with it; - Paint – Front left guard clear coat is coming off and front bar is pretty sad from arguments with sand traps –it’s not broken, just paint. - There are like 2 or 3 hail damage spots on the roof, not bad, but they are there. - There is a decent scratch on near the fuel filler, it was there from Japan. - There is a ‘dent’ in the rear bar on left. It's hardly noticable, it is down very low. - Steering wheel has significant wear on it. But I'll throw in a Nardi Classic, but you'll need a boss kit. - A few very small rust spots on roof - Passenger front door needs a certain technique to unlock, I don't know anything about locking mechanisms or I would have fixed it I also have a log of all kilometeres and maintanence on the car. For high quality photos follow these links (3-4mb each) http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/001.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/002.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/003.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/004.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/005.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/006.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/007.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/008.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/009.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/010.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/011.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/012.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/013.jpg Cheers Chris

I'd be guessing it will eat it...

still for sale

Thanks Tez, I will check them out. I have heard about taking all the heavy keys off the ignition key as well. That is a general principle, not just to Honda Cheers

Hi Guys A friend has a 1989 honda accord. He got it from his sister. I know virtually nothing about the car. I haven't physically looked at it yet (will be tommorow) However he tells me it will start (well..it did months ago) but the key will not stay 'on' it drops back to acc or off, turning the car off. Would anyone have any idea where to start to fix this? If I crack open the key console, will I be able to fix it? or is it in need of replacing the key console? They were told it has "electical problems" but this doesnt seem like an electrical problem as such to me, so I am expecting a lot more Any advice welcome Cheers Chris

Still for sale

Price drop to $9,500 , but I can't edit my posts to change it ?

Anyone have any offers? I am open to negotiation

1989 R32 GTS-T 4 Door - Manual $10,500 ono Located in NEWCASTLE, NSW Post here, PM or call 0412 495 958 for more information, Rego Till March 09 Has close to $9,000 of mods HSD HR suspension (~30,000kms old) Kazz 2 way diff (~20,000km old) Adjustable Castor bushes Adjustable front upper arms (Midori Style) 3" dump + high flow metalcat R33 GTST Turbo (155WRKW @ 11psi) Splitfire Coil packs Walbro fuel pump FMIC Mechanical Boost Controller (doesn't spike) Oil Cooler HKS boost gauge water/oil temp + oil pressure gauges Air con regassed and new seals HICAS Lock bar new rack ends front and rear spacers for more steering lock Had timing belt/water pump done about 40,000kms ago (when i first bought it) Engine oil changed with motul 4100 turbo light every 5000kms and/or every track day. as was gearbox/diff oil Rebuilt gearbox (all bearings) New tyres all round - 17" Federal 595, mis matched Volk Rims. GTP's on front, CV Pro on rear. Alarm + Keyless Entry Only issues that I am aware of with it; - Paint – Front left guard clear coat is coming off and front bar is pretty sad from arguments with sand traps –it’s not broken, just paint. - There are like 2 or 3 hail damage spots on the roof, not bad, but they are there. - There is a decent scratch on near the fuel filler, it was there from Japan. - There is a ‘dent’ in the rear bar on left. It's hardly noticable, it is down very low. - Steering wheel has significant wear on it. - A few very small rust spots on roof - Passenger front door needs a certain technique to unlock, I don't know anything about locking mechanisms or I would have fixed it Yes it has been used for drifting. It has been very well looked after and my friends think I'm a girl cause I baby it on the track. haha. I also have a log of all kilometeres and maintanence on the car. Low Quality Photos attached, for high quality photos follow these links (3-4mb each) http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/001.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/002.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/003.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/004.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/005.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/006.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/007.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/008.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/009.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/010.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/011.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/012.jpg http://www.chrisparkinson.net/skyline/013.jpg Cheers Chris

sorry - i said 044 in one post and didn't realise...it was 040's I was using (and is the topic of this thread) I can't edit my post for some reason to fix ...oh well