eXc

Dyno Day. Saturday 26-05-07 $50 for 3 runs 2wd only Sausage Sizzle and Drinks. No Trophies, it's only for fun. Start 9am, Finish whenever. No need to book, just show up. I am not affiliated with them, I just have always used them for dyno runs, if you have any more questions call them. Tell them Chris with the R32 told ya about it. Turbo Technics 89 Mitchell Rd, Cardiff (Off Munibung Rd) Ph. 49565466

you could...but it was another $200 to go down that avenue. NISMO I believe also have straight bolt in replacements, as do Wablro. But a lot of people don't like the Walbro, and I couldn't afford the other options, besides it's $200 towards other things, even if I could afford it

Here's a video of the Newcastle guys, we are gonna get a wide angle lense for the next day... http://www.ifilm.com/profile/eXc/video/2841871

Hey guys, I had no idea SAU was 'officially' invited, but it was good that you guys came out. I think I met Josh? in a gunmetal grey 33...Was he from here? I am dial up, so I will get through them eventually, but if anyone has pics of me (Silver 4 door 32) I'd love some high-res copies... [email protected] I'll be putting up some video of us newcastle guys (180/silvia/onevia/FC/4dr 32) when I get around to it, and get a mate to upload it (I am on dial up) unfortunatly the other guys have been drifting a year longer than me, so I am just trying to keep up without much success! haha Cheers Chris

I used newcastle gearbox and diff. That price was drive in, drive out, I could have saved $275 if I just took the box in, but I couldn't get any help so I drove it in.

Hey SydneyKid / Others. What about this style pictured below? I have never seen them before, but I was getting a wheel aligment done and the guy was recomending stuff and said much the same as you...however he added that these were good, even if they are $1600 a pair! (ouch) The ones pictured are 'cheapies' I found after a 5 minute search. They are $325 NZ. The 'good' ones are the brand "midori" not sure if that refers to the brand or the style. But maybe you can shed some light on the topic. BTW, if you do review them, put it on the front page perhaps? Cheers Chris

1 of the bearings fell to bits. If I let it go any longer, that would have fell apart while I was driving. If you know you have bearing problems, get it done now...if you're gonna get a clutch anyways, why not get it now? 90% of the information I got regarding the gearbox from friends that drift and the forums where wrong, and if I took their advice I would be up for a new box by now. I am talking about numerous threads I searched for, not just this one. The forums are usually a great spot to get information, but in this particular case, it was not. Get it checked by a gearbox place and go from there. A gearbox place drove mine new the problem and gave me a quote, and it cost me nothing for them to do that. They obviously can't tell all your problems, but they should be able to detect the major ones. I expected to have to do syncros and a gear or 2, but they were ok. Best budget for a little more incase you need syncros/gears.

Just an update. It was all the bearings in the box. They were totally shagged. One fell apart when we split the case. Cost me $800 including labour for new bearings/cir clip/keys.

sounds like it was shagged from day 1. I might try contacting the guy.

mine breaks every time I go drifting,The rapid speed changes just breaks the glue loose. I pull the speedo cluster out, put some araldite in the plastic thing where the spring lives, then some araldite on the square peg that goes into the speedo. Put the plastic thing into the housing, push it in so it's tight with a small screwdriver, then slide the speedo cluster back on. Some people have had success with using heat shrink to close up the plastic....I didn;t have success. This way works, just has to get done every time I leave the track! haha Takes me about 30 minutes to do now. I'll take photos next time if I remember,

I have had mine for about a year now. It has always spiked about 1psi, then dropped back down. I was never worried as someone posted that was normal/ok. I actually got it on a dyno though, and that spike makes the fuel lean out heaps. Also, to get 12psi on mine, the 'tap' is JUST gripping the thread. It is ridiculous how much thread it has. If I screw it in 1 turn, I hit 19psi.... have they fixed this in the new one? Who on here has used these boost controllers on a dyno and watched boost/fuel ? Wondering if mine was stuffed from day 1... Should I buy another or go eletronic? Cheers Chris

This is correct. I used a 040, not a 044. You can see it has a mesh on it, which probably isn't as good as a proper filter. These questions should probably be in a new thread, as this is the tutorial section.

No. It has a mesh at the bottom of the pump though. So it does have a filter built in.

ok, I put it in the compressor housing. I needed to change water lines. Predator - I have posted in your Tutorial thread on how to tell this, thought you may like to add it to your guide for future people? Basically if it's not a 24mm head on the water lines, you will need different ones (mine were 22mm) Getting on dyno at 12:30 today to check everything out. The turbo is making a heat related smell. I am hoping it's just cause it's been sitting in this guys garage for 3 months or whatever. Appreciate your help guys Cheers Chris

I just used predator's guide yesterday and did my conversion. I just thought I'd post a few things that I have found. Predator, feel free to use them in your guide if you agree. 1) Drop the coolant in the normal fashion before un-doing the water lines on the turbo (so drain from radiator) You are going to lose it all anyways, this way it's not as messy 2) I had to change water lines (89 GTST 4 door) and I can now tell you how you can work it out BEFORE you go to all the effort. Predator pointed out you need a 24mm socket for the water lines...well mine were 22mm, which obviously means it was a different size! So... you just need to get to the water lines and see what size socket it is. You still will have to remove the intake pipe, but it's only a 15 minute job to check to save you either stress or money about if you will need them. 3) I put the nipple onto the compressor housing and it is working fine. So if you are likely to change FMIC pipes it may be a better option *shrugs* up to you, apparently there is no performance difference by putting it in either spot. 4) Clean your water lines while they are out (if you take them out) Cheers Chris

Sweet thanks I will try to find a place to tap it in for me in the morning...hope the water line match up! There isn't a way to find out before I pull it off is there? Cause you can't get to the waterline really can you?

I just solved mine recently, it was the AFM. I didn't read the whole thread, but borrow a mates AFM. I cleaned mine, so I figured it wasn't the problem. I did the silicone coil pack trick and it helped for a little while, so I bought splitfires and it didn't fix it! It was just a co-incidence that it fixed them temporarily. haha I also did fuel pump and filter (as I am putting a bigger turbo on this week anyways) So yeah...maybe you can borrow an AFM.

Hey Guys, I am putting an RB25 turbo on my RB20 in the next few days, I just wanted to know where I should put the nipple for the wastegate hose. Should I put it on the compressor housing? Or on the intercooler piping? Do I get it as close to the compressor housing as possible or doesn't it really matter? Does it matter how long that hose is? I have a mechanical boost controller, I was thinking I might mount in a different spot, but it would mean that the line would be about 2 foot long at a guess. AI spose I will find out when I get the turbo off, but where does the standard RB20 one connect to? Obviously I have read that I will need to add a nipple in, I am just curious how the RB20 one works then. Much appreciated Chris

I used High Temp Silicone on mine. I seem to remember other people thinking the nail polish idea would not withstand the temperatures? If it withstands temperatures and is non conductive, it should work. Would be much easier to use than the silicone if it does work.

Topic: Tail Shaft Centre Bearing Replacement Car: R32 GTST (Should be very similar with other cars) Difficulty: 5/10 Time Required: Took me about 3 hours --------- Overview --------- The centre bearing in the tail shaft wears out. Mine was absoultley stuffed. The rubber mounted bearing was hardly attached to the rubber! Changing the bearing took away a lot of noises that I just thought was normal. A local shop would do this for me (not including parts) for 1 hours labour ($70ish) so if your time is worth that...then just pay someone, it's an 'easy' job, but takes time when you don't have the luxary of a hoist and tools. ------------- Tools Needed ------------- A good socket set so you don't round any heads. You will need a large socket. It was a 30mm from memory... A shifter will NOT work. A good spanner set so you don't round any heads. I think from memory you need 8, 10, 12, 14 and 17. A sharp knife that is solid (Stanley knife...not some plastic thing, you need to put weight onto it) Floor Jack/Car Stands/Ramps Bench Vice unless you want to make it very hard for you. Don't know the name, but a puller - It's like a clamp. See Pictures. A correct sized pump or seal driver to put the bearing back in. ------------- Parts Needed ------------- New Centre Bearing - Go to a custom tailshaft shop. Mine cost me $110. The numbers on the box are.. Drive Pro CB56 DJCB 26. 5860 Lock Tight or equivilent. ------------- Installation ------------- Perform this in a clean, shaded area. Don't do it in the sun as the tank will pressurise and start pushing fuel out even without a pump! (It happened to me after I went back and checked the pump was still mounted correctly) 1) Jack the car up or use car ramps on the rear. Stabilize the car (so use car stands. DO NOT EVEN CONSIDER USING ONLY A JACK) Personally, I have back ups aswell. I had the car on car stands...plus the ramps under the rear wheels (I wanted it about 1 foot higher than the ramps, so just the ramps weren't good enough. 2) Hand brake on - Unbolt the tail shaft bolts at the diff end, and anywhere else along the line (memory blank...I did this a few weeks ago) 3) Take the hand brake off, rotate the wheels (thus moving the tail shaft) so you can get to the other bolts. Put the handbrake back on and remove those bolts. 4) Remove the support near the gearbox 5) Remove the centre bearing mount. 6) Pull the shaft out. 7) Take the shaft apart near the centre bearing, exposing a nut. 8) Put it in a vice and bend out the locking mechanism and undo the nut (needs a lot of love..I used a 4 foot pipe and it was still hard) 9) Get the stanley knife and cut the rubber so the mount comes off. Then cut the rubber so that you can expose a metal section of the bearing to get the puller on. 10) Put the puller on and tighten it to remove the old bearing. 11) Put the new bearing on, using something to drive it on (you can buy seal drivers...but they are expensive...I just used the correct sized PVC pipe as I always do for bearings) 12) Don't foget the copper washer, then put the lock nut back on and bend the locking mechanism in. 13) Re-assemble in reverse using locktight 14) Go back and check the bolts under the car in a few weeks time

Topic: Installing a Bosch 040 Into an R32 Car: R32 GTST (Should be very similar with other cars) Difficulty: 6/10 Time Required: Took me about 2 hours...Which included dinner. I reckon you could do it much quicker though. --------- Overview --------- A lot of people say they Bosch 040 is a great choice when putting in an after market Fuel Pump, but there is a lot of discussion about problems such as it being an external pump and that it will end up not being able to use the last 1/3 of the tank. They also talk about the pump being too loud. I have mounted mine internally and have had no problems (2 months ago now). That doesn't mean I won't...so I guess that is your decision to make. I have run my car down to below the "E" on the fuel gauge since I have had the pump in. The most fuel I have put in since this pump has been 52 litres....so it's definatly possible to avoid the 1/3 fuel problem. My pump is only loud in the sucking sound it makes, not rattles or the like. ------------- Tools Needed ------------- I forget exactly, but sockets and screwdrivers would be good. I think you need an 8 and 10, and then whatever your hose clamps have. Pliers Hack Saw (or some way of cutting metal about 2mm thick) ------------- Parts Needed ------------- Some new fuel hose...hmmm I forget what size...Just take the pump to repco or the like. Hose clamps to hold the pump onto the mount. Get 2 of them...around 2.5 inch, again - take the pump to the store with you. 4 or 5 New hose clamps for the fuel line (why not replace them while they are off. There will be 2 external, and 2 or 3 internal) Ring Terminals...I don't remember the size...take the pump to the shop! haha ------------- Installation ------------- Perform this in a clean, shaded area. Don't do it in the sun as the tank will pressurise and start pushing fuel out even without a pump! (It happened to me after I went back and checked the pump was still mounted correctly) 1) Remove carpet and wooden floor panel from boot 2) Remove everything from boot. Don't leave anything that could fall into the tank. If it's dirty, wipe it down. 3) Remove the cover for the electrical plug, and the fuel tank cover 4) You probably should find a way to dispose of the fuel in the lines, however I just pulled the lines off and let fuel go everywhere. It may be worthwhile taping the lines or tieing them to make it easier to get them back on later. It can be hard if the hoses fall back out of reach. 5) Throw away the old hose clamps. For $1 each, why bother...just replace them. 6) Undo the bolts/Screws that hold the tank cover on. 7) CAREFULLY pull the pump out (it's attached to the tank cover) Be carefull of the float (white plastic) and the metal arms/electrics etc. 8) Put the pump in your clean working area (bench) 9) I read in another thread that you should put the O-Ring into a plastic bag, then into the freezer so it doesnt stretch. I didn't do this, and wish I had. Alternativly you could replace it...I paid $5 for mine at a bearing/seal shop...no I don't know a product number, I replaced it 3 years ago when I first got my car. 10) Put the new pump next to the old one, so that the bottom of the 040 is at the bottom of the filter sock on the old pump. That is how low you need to mount it! Mark it in some way so you know after the pump is removed. 11) Remove the pump from the mounting bracket. 12) Remove the plastic/rubber mount on the bracket at the bottom. 13) This is where you make the choice on how to modify the mount. I bent the L bracket out straight, then fiddled with it in the tank cutting it down bit by bit till it was JUST off the bottom of the tank. Other people reckon they didn't have to cut it - But I can't see how. It was hard to measure, so you will have to test it before you mount the pump. This is the most critical part of the job. Too high, and you'll get the 1/3 tank problem, too low, it won't fit in the tank, or will touch the bottom - giving you the noisy pump problem! 14) Once you have it cut so it doesn't hit the bottom of the tank, you can mount the pump, but first you will need to use a new bit of hose there, as it will be too short. Use new hose clamps! 15) You will need to cut off the old wiring terminals and solder your own on. You may need to lengthen the wire (I didn't) 16) The return pipe apparently can end up causing surge issues, so I put a extension on it to push it away from the intake. (This is where the 5th hose clamp comes in from my parts list) 17) Assemble it all back into the tank, check that it doesn't touch the bottom (you should hear/feel it) 18) Asemble everything else. Turn ignition on for a few seconds and crank the car. Hopefully it works 19) Go back and check it in a few weeks time

Topic: Modifying an S13 Bride Rail To A R32 GTST Car: R32 GTST (Possibly GTR?) Difficulty: 1/10 Time Required: No more than an hour, depending on your tools and measuring skills it will be as short as 5 minutes In my experience it is much easier to find an S13 rail than a R32 rail...so...why not make the S13 rail fit the 32! It also means you can fit it to an S13 if you ever get one. Ok this is really straight forward. I just thought I'd put this tutorial up so people will just get on with the job instead of stressing if it will work or not. This is not a very technical tutorial, but hey, it's got photos to show you how easy it is. The S13 has 3 of the 4 bolts in the same spot. The 4th is off by around 1cm. So you can just re-drill it. If you have a 32 rail and want it to fit an S13, you need to weld a bit on! ------------- Tools Needed ------------- Depends on how accurate your measuring is...you need to either drill a new hole, or file the old one, or if your measuring sux like mine, you'll end up doing both!. - Small Round File or Dremel - Drills (don't know size...whatever size the bolt in the car is!) I didn't have the right size drill so I had to file it out either way. I wish I had a dremel. ------------------- Modifying The Rail ------------------- Anyways, the picture says it all. You are required to Drill one extra hole, it is the hole located at the back-right of the rail (behind your right butt cheek). 1) Measure fit the rail to your car by placing it up to the 3 holes it does fit too. 2) Mark where you need to drill the new hole 3) Drill the new hole, file if required. Done. Easy. Photos attached.

Just following up from my call on the weekend - Did the buyer come through? I'll take it if they don't...

Turbo and intercooler elbow? Posted to 2324 NSW

rb20 elbow? So it's not the 33 one? I am wanting the 33 one so I can fit it to my RB20.