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Dale FZ1

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Dale FZ1 last won the day on June 1 2018

Dale FZ1 had the most liked content!

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About Dale FZ1

  • Rank
    Rank: RB30E
  • Birthday 10/29/1968

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  • Location
    Sunshine Coast

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    ECR33 Series 1

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  1. Biggest question is what do you want to achieve? Throw up a dyno sheet and explain how the car drives (as in engine performance), what you like, what you don't like about it.
  2. Ally fretting on steel cross member is either going to wear it paper thin, or cause fatigue. Problem in the making. Also I'd reckon the mounts require a zero set - twisting it (power train) while tightening it all down is only going to introduce stress points under load as you say. Matt's solution looks the goods.
  3. You've done the hard work by measuring actual deck height of the piston in your engine. Target clearance to the quench pad should be about 1.0mm, plus/minus 0.1mm. Order HG to suit your measurements.
  4. No thoughts of going to a 3.69 diff to capitalise on "streetable" torque? There's a lot to like going on here.
  5. Keen to see your developments as they progress.
  6. Welcome to SAU - first time posting! Firstly - RB26 are not known for strong low-mid range torque. Your combination of 272 cams and a 6466 that's barely working at 18psi/600hp can't be expected to "wake up" much before 5000rpm. Referring to on-off throttle driving, not what's seen on a dyno sheet. Secondly - quality of design/fabrication can vary wildly. Shapes, sizes, angles, merges all play a part in how things work. Your manifold design, 2 into 1 wastegate pipe merge etc is an unknown. Was the wastegate pipe divided right up to the valve? Maybe create a build thread for your car and post up a few pictures to help people see what your car is like. Thirdly - tuning outcomes can vary wildly. The engine hardware creates limitations, but so does the tuner's knowledge of how to make something work on the road, as opposed to the dyno. Something to consider. Running 100 octane petrol is no bad thing - your tuner should have capitalised on its knock resistance with an ignition map approaching what might be seen with E85. Fourthly - final drive gearing definitely alters the way a car feels on road, as per previous comments. If you can source a set of 4.375 diff gears for your car, the extra rpm in any gear for a given road speed is going to accentuate responsiveness. Suggestions - install some stock RB26 cams, and spend some dyno time dialling them to what you think you want. Retain the 6466, talk with your tuner about boost control and what they can do to achieve best spool. And run another 5psi boost to get an idea of what its capabilities are like.
  7. Pros - engine bay looks cool. Cons - eliminating long runner inlet costs torque. (very bad on a torqueless RB20) Outcome - any perceived gains in improved "response" are swamped by the loss of torque that the factory gained through empirical R&D. Suggest - run heat shielding, drive and be happy with turbo + tune.
  8. Link provide an extensive help menu. But you need to go right through the whole tune file, make sure the sensor settings are correct, and calibrated. This includes CAS, TPS, injectors. First time around, you will burn time. But follow their prompts and don't leave out any steps. Physically check connections like CAS, injectors, and coils. It is easy to test fire the injectors and ignition without the engine running, just follow the help menu. If you haven't got IAT wired and functional, you're going to need to work around that one, in case the settings makes the ECU think it's seeing -50 or +140C temps. The other thing is to double and triple check all earths around the engine. Link has a good feature to tell you when inputs are off scale and erroring too. It's all in the help menu.
  9. If you want more high rpm breathing capability, those mods should push things that way. If you're currently running it to 9000, based on the dyno sheet, begs the question of why? It's done its best by 7000 and torque is falling at that point. Sticking with a stock RB30 crankshaft, or have you spent on a fully counterweighted crank?
  10. Sounds like a weapon. Must be nearly tractionless! Car pics in your intro thread look good, lot of work involved as many here on SAU can testify. Could you post up in the RB30 dyno results with sheets? It helps bring things together, allows easier comparison of setups. Being from UK, were you quoting 750 "derived" crankshaft hp, or is that at the wheels?
  11. Great effort so far. Much respect when the work is self-done. Love the flares and rear spoiler. Cage design looks very similar to mine
  12. Best part is, you're making something that suits YOU! Not many people make their own flares and panels. I like the bolt on flares. But my favourite "look" is the Alfa 155GTA DTM, circa 1996. Even better, search up some vids and turn up the sound. Very keen to see these progress further when you're back home from work.
  13. That one should be 19mm, and it's from reservoir to the pump. Therefore not high pressure
  14. Super hot gases will give valves, turbo, manifold, gaskets and wastegate a flogging. Inspect and re-install OEM valves if serviceable. Forget anti lag. Drive car more often.
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