Dale FZ1

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About Dale FZ1

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    Rank: RB30E
  • Birthday 10/29/1968

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  • Location
    Sunshine Coast

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  • Car(s)
    ECR33 Series 1

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  1. I have three questions for this Is the oil pump bone stock ie. original springs, no shims? Are you relying on the OEM gauge in the dash for "accurate" pressure indication? Have you tried a different grade of oil as per Bob's comment?
  2. Wrapping it up will be when you have had a successful trial run. Let us know please!
  3. Incorrect (excessive) camber will result in poor traction and handling, and silly tyre wear. Suggest about -0.5 to -.0.75 is where the aimpoint should be. Another clearance fix is to get handy with angle grinder, tin snips, hammer, and welder. Cut the guards, install flares. Instant clearance. And depending on your viewpoint, they look good too.
  4. Agreed. If there's one available for cheap.
  5. There's a lot of recommendations made that are going to require a $10k minimum spend to make the car capable of running reliably. They're not bad ideas, just failing to acknowledge the financials. Until OP is prepared/able to pony up for all the regular associated upgrades - ECU, cooler, proper exhaust, fuel system, clutch, rubber, brakes, suspension I'd say he's best to stick with a small close to stock sized replacement running low boost eg 10psi and keep motoring until the funds are there.
  6. +1. This makes a lot of sense. Capitalise on the flow capabilities of the turbo. It's hardly going to be weak up higher. Spend the saved money on engineering a capable fuel system from front to back. Look at pics provided by Piggaz.
  7. Two suggestions come to mind: 1. Kick off a thread with this specific question 2. Chase an opinion/advice from Kelford and let us know what they say. It's their product after all. Given that you want early spool and the turbo is a big breathing unit, I'd think the smallest 182-C would be the best choice of those three options.
  8. Fit it up to the Cefiro donk. See how the fuel system copes - presuming you'll be spending on a decent fuel pressure sensor and monitor fuel system performance. If you ran a turbo speed sensor, you could probably evaluate fuel flow requirements vs airflow as a function of turbo speed. And have a lot of information about what the GTR would require. 2wd Cefiro can only put down so much torque, I'd look at that aspect of how you want to tune the engine. The two engine breakers will be rpm, and detonation. If you're fuel system limited then you're not likely to run enough boost to create cylinder pressures that will bend rods.
  9. www.motorsportbrakes.com.au/ Consult with Marty, brakes is his day job and he knows this stuff inside out. Far easier to get it right, and he offers great support. It's not just about selling product for him. You're going to need the piston sizes of your calipers to get any calculations done.
  10. The difference is night and day for feel. Initial setup prep for M/C sizing is by maths to get the basic proportions in the correct ballpark. And it's quite possible that you will need to trial one or two combinations. You may not know that you've hit the best combination until you experience one that's not as "right". My first go, the pedal wasn't terribly heavy, had excellent feel, but the travel was way too l-o-n-g. Not a good feeling during a heavy decel event from 175 to 60 and that tyre wall seems very close. Second go with different M/C sizes, the pedal length was where I felt it needed to be, but seemed WAY heavy. After the first couple of applications, the driver becomes acclimatised to what's required, and you become aware that pedal feel is still sensational. A few events later and I had a run in Mafia's 34 GTR (lovely car, 400awkW so pretty strong). Boosted brakes were sensationally strong but devoid of feel and progression. If you've got the time, budget, and a bit of perseverance, a proper balance bar setup that's actually set up is streets ahead and you don't notice pedal weight. Some people will disagree and run with modern ABS setups and rely on the technology to do the stopping. Each to their own.
  11. Keep the pics coming. Great to see people enjoying their rides safe and responsible. Hoses do perish. Make sure you have reasonably fresh fuel hoses too. My 33 developed a pinhole in the pressure feed to the rail, about 2 months after it came off the boat. Could have ended in a flaming mess on the roadside. On inspection, there was a bulge in that pinhole area and it just gave way.
  12. I'd say nature will take its course, and they will be well oiled without using the K&N stuff. I generally give mine a hit with degreaser after a couple of events, reduce the saturation levels (probably a pointer that my system isn't quite right either).
  13. That would be my line of thinking. Everyone has an idea, and in Interweb forum land we are all experts. But all engines breathe. And the pressure in the sump carries vapours. Emissions-legal cars have the vapours going into the inlet to be burned, normally shows up with all that caked on oil/grease trail in the inlet. So it takes a bit of trial and error to configure a catch can setup that doesn't puff smoky vapours. Just because a catch can has a workshop's name on it, doesn't mean it will work perfectly (even if it's better than many others). I doubt if the turbo drain has become restricted, but it wouldn't hurt to inspect and consider whether it's sized and routed as well as possible. All factors can impact results, so have a look. One thing I found with my 30DET over successive track seasons, is that the engine breathes. I have implemented a number of modifications to the setup, and this has helped a LOT to get things satisfactory (not a smoky oily mess underbonnet when a run is finished anymore). But familiarity with the car etc means it's being driven harder/faster, and I wipe a rag around the catch can outlet to clean any haze that's evident.
  14. www.turbofast.com.au/TurbochargerFactsAndMyths.html This is a source to have absolute faith in. Probably an issue with overall breather design. Mechanical baffling in the cam covers, breather hose sizes, catch can internal design and volume, and breather filter size/number. You see people running two cans in series sometimes, looking to deal with heavy breathing/smoking. Hose routing/orientation is also a factor to avoid oil vapours condensing and pooling in dipped/low sections. There is a bit of thought/effort to get this aspect right.