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260DET

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About 260DET

  • Rank
    Rank: RB25DET

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Warwick, Q.

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    Datsun 280ZX LSV8
  • Real Name
    Richard

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  1. It's going to be approved I assume, really what Bob said because we are not in a position to see if it can be the basis for an approved/decent cage. If it is then I'd get it extended assuming that would be the cheapest option
  2. Yeah, Albion Motorsport have quoted $619 each for 265/35/18's which suit my 9.5 and 10" rims. Will check with Dunlop to see what they have but this time I want a fun tyre with plenty of feedback. Will have a look at the RS4's.
  3. The Falkens are only available up to 265 wide, with 10 and 9.5" rims wider would be better for my heavy biatch. Any alternative suggestions for Bathurst? Nengun list 18" A050's at ~ $1000 EACH and no wider than 265 LOL.
  4. Present short list is Hankook Ventus RS4, Bridgestone Potenza RE71R and Falken Azenis RT615K+. Bridgy's are a bit on the expensive side.
  5. Taking the 350Z to Challenge Bathurst , 20 minute sessions, and this time rather than run true semi's I've decided to try something that will still work if it's wet. After a lot of research the Falken Azenis RT615+ seems to be one of the best but it appears that Falken don't bring in the bigger sizes in 18" WTF. Federal 595 RSRRS-RR are the current version of the venerable 595 but I have no idea where they are in the grip heirarchy now. Anyone with recent experience with these or others? If there is interest I'll give feed back.
  6. That Scintex heat exchanger looks good.
  7. If a heat exchanger brings up oil temps quicker then that's a good thing for a race car isn't it? Use a separate oil cooler if high oil temps ultimately are a problem.
  8. If it becomes a problem for the cops my semi educated guess is that they will apply to amend (correct) the notice. Everything is weighted in favour of the police who make mistakes all the time.
  9. Anyone know what interchanges between the two?
  10. Got them out, if it was to be done again this is how I'd do it. Use a ~15mm drill to drill holes through the poly close together around the perimeter of each bush, rock the drill sideways to break though the holes so the centre can be removed. Some poly will be left stuck to the outer wall of the bush housing so clean that out with a coarse file or something. A butane torch can then be used to melt away what's left. Easy peasy
  11. Thanks blokes, the subframe is out so accessibility is no problem.
  12. Thinking of using a reciprocating saw to cut them out from the inside but have yet to check if suitable thin blades are available. Burning does not seem to be a good idea, or is it?
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