260DET

No need for mechanics with my 2015 diesel Cherokee, well just to get serviced. Tows great, nice to drive, no problems.

Bloody hell, we only need to tow a race car not tilt the world off it's axis It's a pity that Jeeps are currently persona non gratia, a friend of of mine has a Grand Cherokee petrol Mopar V8 that truly is one of the ultimate tow bitches, reasonable fuel economy too, 16 he talks about.

Dan is wasting his talent at RB and he knows it, bloody Renault just can't match MB or Fez.

Can't help with the bits but it sounds like you are up to something interesting, reducing the trail angle?

Sensitive would be a better word, the closer the suspension gets to just right the more sensitive it becomes to damping adjustment. Or so I've found.

Those alignments sound OK, 8.5 caster is a about right for a track car together with 3 to 3.5 negative camber. It may be a bit fussy with damper settings though.

It's a right hand jiver unless the pics are back to front, I too love the colour.

Not a S chassis but a bloke I know with a track 370Z got it down to a touch over 1,200kg, all stock panels and powertrain. The wiring alone was something like 50kg including air bags.

Came 9th outright which is pretty sensational and won their class by almost 10 minutes, beat lots of P cars which is always good

Targa Tasmania It's on, no Neesan interest? OK, check this Datsun out then.

Paddle Shifter Electronics It's complicated to explain but basically involves alternative shifting between a overdrive unit and an automatic transmission using just a paddle shift arrangement. Usually such shifting is done using a sequential manual shifter for the trans with a button controlling the overdrive unit, the sequence being manual shift, overdrive shift, manual shift, overdrive shift and so on. Paddle shifting is not essential it's just that with a manual shifter there can be no gaps in between for the overdrive unit to shift. I'll have to solve the problem myself but tips and sources for made up circuits that may be useful would help a lot. May have to educate myself on basic electronics too.

Pretty sure that in the US it's common to use varying width slip on spacers, think Porsche did too at least at one time. See pics of some race cars with long studs sticking out.

FYI the Z Car Club Q block entry being organised by David email [email protected] will with a bit more support, which is well on track, be able to buy a block of entries. This means that the block run together in Regularity, plus have lock up 24 hour use of their allocated main pit garages with groups eg a SAU group, being able to share the one garage plus have camping advantages. But you have to go through David who is authorised by the organisers to accept entries, you may email him now with a EOI or for more info.

Good work in not cutting out pieces around the gearshift lever chassis hole, that's all structural and reinforced for a reason.

If you end up needing more front grip then you have the option of using spacers there, it's a handy option to have.