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any shaft movement? Was it working fine before you took it off? Any noises etc? Does it come with the elbow?

i have seen some people (including SydneyKid??) say there was a ball bearing R33 turbo? Is that correct? Which series is it?

Hey Guys, I've spent the last 2 hours searching and can't find it. Can anyone link me or; 1) tell me the differences between the R33 turbos. 2) Which one is best suited to the RB20. 3) I know you need to make sure you get "the elbow" for the conversion...but what is it? What does it look like? 4) Any other things I should do first? Fuel pump perhaps? Will I need a SAFC or similar aswell? Cheers Chris

So this comparison never happened?

What sort of increase in power would I expect from just changing to poncams? I am looking for some extra power...someone suggested poncams. Can anyone link me to a thread that has discussed it? Cheers Chris

Thanks guys.... I'll have a think about it

thanks. any other comments?

Hey Guys, I have done a search and it seems to be the spiggot bush or throw out bearing that is responsible for a lot of noises. I had a whirring noise ever since I had the car, but it was never a concern, putting the clutch in for rid of it. I had never even considered it a problem. After drifting on the weekend and doing a lot of clutch kicking, there is a new noise...or perhaps it is just louder. - It's like the whirring noise, but louder, and it's more of a tap then a whir. - It goes faster when you rev the engine. - It goes away when I put the clutch in - It can still be heard while driving in gear, but only with minimal road noise (ie. its not stupidly loud) - The clutch works fine, it doesn't slip. - It's a standard clutch (or atleast if it was changed in Japan, it is a very basic clutch) - The gearbox seems fine, I can still get all gears. Does anyone know if it's worth worrying about? Or just let it go? Thanks Chris

THanks

What tyres are on the front? Brand/model/size Are you able to get the wheels off and have a look at the offset and width of rims - The Volks will have a sticker - You may be able to read it while it's on the car. Cheers Chris

That was just suggested to me a little while ago. I didn't realise it was something that the shops would have. Are they are standard size? Or will I need to have the dump pipe with me when I go to a shop to get the flanges on? Cheers Chris

well, to get flanges I either need a new cat, or hope the supplier will swap it for me. I don't like my chances. Not sure what to do.

Hey Everyone, I have a R32 GTST - RB20DET. Running 0.8 bar. 3" Cat back. Otherwise stock (engine performance wise) I have a 3" cat back at the moment. I have finally got around to having the money spare to get a dump. I have bought a metalcat off the net. I had planned to get a shop to make the dump pipe and weld the cat in, so I got a cat without flanges (it was extra cost to get flanges). I am now considering buying a pre-fabricated pipe off the net. Should I bother with a pre-fab or is one that an exhaust shop just as good as a pre-fab one? If I go pre-fab, it means I will have to go to a shop to get it welded anyways, but I suppose I could just have the dump on with out the cat, and go to the shop? It's going to cost me $330-380 (2 shops...2 quotes) to get the pipe made and cat in. It will cost me $230ish to get a pre-fab pipe (didnt do much searching as yet...that was just a quick look) plus I am guessing 1 hours labour at the shop, which is like $70 isnt it?. So that makes it around $300 to go the pre-fab way. Plus the time of me doing it. - This is the one I found after a quick look http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...260&hl=dump What are your opinions?

Looking at getting a dump pipe for my car finally. Anyone had experience with exhaust places in Newcastle area? The only 2 reputable ones I know are Lillford and Premier. I have heard good and bad about both places. What is your experience with them (or others in the area) Cheers Chris

there is a thread somewhere called the "4 door bargain bin" or something like that. check that out.

Thanks, it only took an hour...and my engine bay was pretty filthy. You may be able to see I cleaned the bonnet heaps and the heat cover too. I was expecting to take a whole day...but yeah. WD40 is the goods. I use it on all electrics after I wash my dirt bike. Everyone I know does the same. WD40 may be conductive but I have never ever heard of a problem with using it on electrics...it's one of it's main purposes.

I cleaned mine a while ago. You can see some pics below All I used was a citrus based degreaser and some Inox to make it shine - and no, it doesn't collect dirt. Some silicon sprays do. I use Inox for the exact opposite. I use it under my wheel guards to help dirt come off easier. I also use it on my dirt bike for the same reason. I live on a dirt road, so I'd know if it collected dust Some silicon spray that a workshop put on it once DID collect dirt and I wasn't impressed. Just VERY quickly, what I did was; 1) Short drive to warm the engine up a little. Warm meaning you can leave your hand on the engine easily without any pain. 2) Cover anything electrical with plastic bag or aluminium foil. (bag is good for air box, foil good for most everything else) You will never completly seal everything, this is why pressure cleaners need to be used sparingly. I didn't use more than a garden hose for my car. I did however need a pressure cleaner for my g/f's car, but it had 5mm of oil and dirt! 3) IN THE SHADE. Apply degreaser. Leave it. Wash it off. I had to do mine 3 times. The first time I sprayed it on, hose it off, it didn't work very well. The second time I used a paint brush to put it on, hosed it off. This worked well, but left brush makes of the degreaser. So I did it a final time with a cloth. If I did it again, I'd use a brush on small areas at a time, then a cloth. Then maybe I'd spray some more over it, then do the next small area, then come back and hose it all off. 4) Remove foil/plastic bag 5) Spray eletrical componants with WD40 to help disperse water. 6) Wait until it's mostly dry then run the engine to disperse the rest of the water. 7) Wait to cool and spray Inox on for shiny look if you like. 8) Wash the car when you are done, as you will have degreaser on your wind shield and front end/doors, no matter how careful you are. 9) Take photos and tell us you were suprised how easy it was. You may not need a brush, It depends how bad it is. I think mine had never been done. Now that I have done it, I reckon spray on, hose off will work now. Option 2: You can pay a detailer to do it and inside the car for $200, By detailer I don't mean the local car wash/detailer. I mean a proper detailer - Speak to car yards, but they may not tell you. You will be shocked what a detailer can make look good.

Did you have it installed on your car? How much does it cover? Is it basically the same size as the plastic? Does it line up with the factory holes? Can you still get to sump plug with it on? How thick/heavy is it?

and a pic

Has anyone used something like described here? (air compressor filter) http://tsx.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9571 I guess you'd want it bigger, but atleast you can see how much oil is in it, and it looks tidier and not as obvious (in my opinion) to a big stainless canistor. I have also read (I think in that thread...been reading a lot) that you can/should run 2 catch cans? Is that right? Cheers Chris

You're calling me a time waster? Fine.

Does that mean you aren't interested in measuring the seat? Or did you miss my post?

If anyone has things to add or things that I have not explained easily/incorrectly. Please let me know via PM. ----------------------------------------------- Removing HICAS On An R32 GTS-T, RB20DET ----------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------- The R32 has hydraulic instead of electric HICAS like the R33. I have not found any tutorial that I have been satisfied as being easy to understand. So I wrote this. From reading other posts, it appears that some 32's must be different to mine. But anyways, this is how it worked on my car. I don't know other cars, I only know my car. So it may differ. Don't bother asking about different cars. -------------------- Tools Needed -------------------- I forget everything. But; - screwdrivers, - BIG shifter or a...30mm? open ender. - Various sockets. - Tie rod end remover depending on how you plan to do it. - Knife - Jack and Car Stands - DO NOT JUST USE A JACK -------------------- Parts Needed -------------------- - Something to block up 3 lines. I used plastic wine corks (really...) - Hose. I was lead to believe you could just use one hose. I couldn't. I needed to have 1x 3/8th" hose and 1x 1/2" hose. I then needed a reducer to join them. Use Power steering or transmission hose. I got about a foot of each and cut them down to suit. I actually needed about 1 foot in total - Hose clamps for the above hoses. I needed 4. I didn't want to re-use the ones that were already on the car. - HICAS Lock bar - Power Steering Fluid - Dexron 3 ---------------------------- Removing The HICAS ---------------------------- First up, if you are like me and have the HICAS bar with tie rods attached, you can skip steps 2-4. However you will need to get the tie rod ends off obviously. 1) Jack car up, put on stands. DO NOT USE JUST THE JACK. You will be needing to put a lot of effort to undo things. Use car stands. 2) Remove Wire on HICAS boots 3) You are using car stands aren't you? Good...Use the BIG shifter or the correct size spanner if you have it (Which I doubt unless you're a trucky) to crack the rod end. DONT screw them out all the way unless you have the outside end of the tie-rods off. 4) Undo the Fluid lines - Expect fluid to come out! (duh) 5) Plug fluid lines 6) Undo the 2 bolts that hold the HICAS in. 17mm I think from memory 7) Take the HICAS unit out. 8) Do everything in reverse. ------------------------------------- By-Passing The HICAS Solenoid ------------------------------------- When you put the HICAS lock bar in, you have a few choices. Some bypass the HICAS solenoid (and the whole system towards the rear of the car). Some loop it at the back using high pressure fittings. Some modify the power steering pump. I chose to bypass the HICAS Solenoid as it seemed to be the easiest option. 1) Read the whole tutorial before you start. 2) Look at Diagram 1. You need to locate the Hoses marked in RED. 3) Look at Diagram 2. This is one of those hoses. 4) Remove this hose where I have circled. Attach the 3/8th hose here. Use a hose clamp. 5) Look at Diagram 3 & 4. This is the other hose (or atleast where it joins back to the metal pipes). Unscrew this fitting. Attach the 1/2 inch hose to the pipe (the 'male' thread) again, use a hose clamp. 6) Join the hoses with your reducer, using hose clamps. 7) Plug the female part of the lines underneath the car. (I used a plastic wine cork, grinded ribs of it, tapered it a little and it screwed in... 8) Top up the power steering fluid, run the car, check for leaks. --------------------------- Removing Everything --------------------------- Ok, I didn't do this as yet. But you should now be able to take all the lines, solenoid and whatever the extra bit at the middle/back of car is...I am guessing it's a secondary pump? ---------------------- Other Things ---------------------- 1) Check for leaks after running the car a while. 2) Take a short (cautious!) drive 3) Get a wheel alignment. 4) Re-check power steering fluid ------------------------ Some other links ------------------------ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=58778 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=93183

I am trying to work out how the Brix differs to the Brix 2. Can you please measure the areas listed here http://www.tees-usa.com./size_reclining.html

ok, so you just gotta reef it off. Atleast now I know that I can go nuts on it. I have tried twisting etc. I think I'lll leave it till next week (after drift day) and I'll pull the assembly out and get it into a vice so I can get a better hold on it. I was gonna cut it off, but obviously I need a replacement first.