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once you get them, if you have the ability to scan, get them up on here so everyone can use

thanks SK, but all of them can't find a part listing....

bump

bump

Hey Guys, I am having difficulty finding a Lower Shock Absorber Bush for the rear. I need it by next weekend (1 week) and Notlec won't have any until 2 weeks. Does anyone know where I can source them quickly? Cheers Chris

Ok noltec prices from AutoPro Part ----------------- Bushes in Kit--- Part # -- Price Sway Bar Link Front -------------(8) - SPF2092BK - $25 (SuperPro - Noltec didnt have any) Sway Bar Link Rear -------------(8) - N21169 - $22 Diff Cradle Subframe Bushes----(4) - N92446 - $235 Upper Control Arm Front ------- (8) - N51219 - $146 Lower Shock Absorber Bush------(?) - N32985 - $46.10 If anyone has part numbers to suit then please let me know. Or other places to try Also can someone tell me which of these I can do myself?

Does anyone have photos of adjustable control arm bushes? What happens if you put them in at the wrong place the first time. Can you move them? Or are you screwed? I just pulled out the control arms, and the bushes look almost impossible to replace. I don't see how you could adjust them once you put the new ones in ?? Cheers Chris

Electrics? If you mean an electronic boost gauge - No. I have no idea how they even work. If you mean to get a light to the mech boost gauge... If I ever have time I will add it in. It took me a month to get round to this. But all I did was run the earth line on the gauge to a bolt that was on metal. And I ran the power line and just cut into the light wire for the cig lighter. Cheers Chris

Kewl

Predator - Bottom Eyelet I guess...sorry I don't know names of parts I will check out noltec. Prices listed above were bushes only. not replacement arms ! I have found on garage 13 $175 for control arms with bushes...

ok, so I got it to a shop. Front Control Arm inner and outer are gone. On One side, Front Control Arm inner are gone on the other side. Sway bar bushes front and back are gone. Rear left Strut bush gone. Bowers (local suspension people) Quoted me the following with SuperPro parts. SPF1659K - Control Arm Kit Upper Inn/OUt Nissan - $413.60 SPF1483K - Bush Kit 200sx F C/Arm - $188.40 SPK2092BK - Bkit 8 Sway Bar Link Square - $25.50 SPF0903K - Kit 8 Univ S/Bar Link Bush (small) - $24.90 They didn't quote the rear shock rubber..I don't know why. Can anyone tell me what the Whiteline equivilent is, and it it's worth it? SuperPro are also on the Whilteline site, are they one company? KCA336 - Front Camber Adj Kit - Uppr C/arm - Is this inner or outer or both? Cheers Chris

I spoke too soon. I am able to upload jpgs on new threads. But I can't on old threads. I am trying to get the pics back up here. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=69151 Any ideas guys? Or should I start a New thread with the same info and delete the old? I can email the pics if a mod is able to attach them Cheers Chris

So guys, for a 32 gtst what is the overall verdict. Do you have to remove/modify/replace the power steering pump? Can you just put the lock bar in place, and block the hoses at the diff end? Or what? I am so confused by this thread haha. Perhaps a new one should be started with the information collated?

Yeah, I just don't have that. Plus I am considering selling it at the end of the year and getting a dedicated drifter. I am still sick and havn't had the chance to check it out. Thanks for all the help guys

I havce no idea what you just said. But either way uploading JPGs is now working. Cheers Chris

cool. Thanks. I'll try it when I get better. In the mean time I am trying to source a HICAS lock bar to throw it on so I can cross it off the list of possibilities

alright kewl thanx

are you just making them for him or something?

Topic: Diff Oil Replacement Car: R32 GTST / RB20DET Difficulty: 2/10 Hey Guys, Just a very quick how to. Just to show everyone how easy it is to do, don't bother paying a shop to do it Cheers Chris Tools Required (Image 1) - 1/2 drive Ratchet + Extenders + Universal to make life easy. - Possibly a pipe to use as extra leverage - Diff Oil - I use Castrol LSX 90 and it used about 2L I think from memory 5L cost me $50ish I think - Some kind of pump. You can't pour it in. You need a pump. This one cost me $10 at repco - Jack + car stands or ramps or a pit (you need to get under the car) - Drain Container 2litre minimum Step 1 Get the car off the ground, make sure it's secure and not going to fall Step 2 (May be better doing step 3 first to check you can get the filler bolt undone!!) Undo the drain bolt (bottom of diff) (image 2) Step 3 Undo the filler bolt (Side of diff) (Image 2) Step 4 Once fully drained, put the drain bolt back in (don't get them mixed up! - Image 3) Step 5 Start pumping the new oil into the Diff. It takes ages, atleast it did with my pump. My arm got very sore due to small area to move and thick oil. Fill until the oil comes out the side of the filler hole. Step 6 Replace filler bolt Step 7 Clean up mess, check bolts are tight. Go Drive While you're under there, check that the driveshaft (halfshafts) bolts are tight, and the diff mounts too.

Topic: Mechanical Boost Gauge Install Car: R32 GTST / RB20DET Difficulty: 3/10 Hey Guys, I know it's been covered in threads before, however I thought I'd do my own tutorial, with pics to help newbies (like myself) I had to work all this out myself without pics, so it isn't too hard. I haven't put in mounting of the gauge, just where to run the hose, and where to make 'the crucial cut' Cheers Chris NOTES: You can run the cable whereever you like. This is how I did it, think about what you are doing before you do it, perhaps you won't like the way I did it. Tools / Parts needed - Mechanical Boost Gauge - I have no idea about electronic, so don't bother asking When you work it out, make a tutorial like I have - hose (it's cheap...I started with 3m to be sure, You should work out how much you need before starting) - T Piece - Screwdrivers - Wire or something to help you get the hose through the firewall Step 1 Remove the driver side kick panel (Image 1) Step 2 Remove the floor trim, or cut a hole if you're lazy like me. (image 2) Step 3 Under then engine, remove the foam plug that will expose an area to run the hose (images 3 and 4) Step 4 Run the hose through the firewall. It isn't easy. Use some solid wire to push it through. Get inside the car to pull it through further. Step 5 Cut the hose as shown in image 5. This picture already has the T peice in place (Image 5) Step 6 Put the T peice in as pictured (image 6) Step 7 Back inside the car, mount your boost gauge and run the hose to it. Connect it up. Start the car, check for leaks/acurate boost reading (dyno run) Many guages aren't accurate, that isn't a problem as long as you know what the reading is in reality. I was lucky, my gauge is very accurate. Hope that helps out the newbies. I know it would have helped me heaps if it was around. There are other locations to cut the hoses, but I read that is the best location as other hoses can cause engine damage somehow (no I don't know how)

ok well I have PM'd GTRGeoff, so I guess I will wait for him to get back to me? Or should I talk to you about ordering one for a 32 gtst?

bump. went to upload new pics and will only allow gif files?

I get told i can only upload gif files. Is this correct? Surely you will allow jpgs?

did he say how long? I was gonna order one too. But I may want it sooner rather than later to diagnose a problem

Thanks SK. I'll see if I can work it out. There aren't any leaks. I will check the other things you suggsted. I'm not sure what you meant by levering the bushes. I'll try to get to the car and see what you meant. Will probably make more sense when I am there. I assume you mean to lever the arms etc that the bushes are in? I just got hit with the flu, so it's made it so I can't work on the car Cheers Chris