Jump to content
SAU Community

020king

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    24

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Posts posted by 020king

    R33 water temp low

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    13 hours ago, hardsteppa said:

    Or something like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fifth-gen-Defi-Advance-Zd-Control-Unit-Pkg-W-Cu-Oil-Press-Oil-Water-Temp-Sensor/183383574277?epid=18026937230&hash=item2ab2834705:g:oDAAAOSwikdes7VV

     

    Mine has worked flawlessly for years apart from the oil and fuel pressure sensors. Changed them to genuine defi, and reads the same.

    Thanks for the help. This piece of kit is a all in one which is good. Better than having gauges everywhere. 

    R33 water temp low

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    14 hours ago, BK said:

    Anything really, but again as Duncan mentioned just using a scan tool / consult software you'll be able to actually read the ECU temp sensor you already have without adding an extra sensor or gauges. This is where stand-alone ECUs for a start make life easier.

    So something like this

    https://www.nisscan.com/NDSI/index.php?content=buynow

    Thanks for the help this scan tool will be very helpful 

    R33 water temp low

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    18 hours ago, Duncan said:

    That is just about right. The thermostat is what Nissan use to set the normal operating temp, so 79-90 is great.  I would not be concerned up to 100, and if it went over about 115 it is time to stop. Everything might survive over that but it is getting pretty sketchy. 

    OP, any water temp gauge is fine, they are simple things. You don't even need to mount it really, just have a gauge somewhere you can see it to allay your concerns....because 99% there is nothing wrong with your car's water temps.

     

    Thanks alot for the help and info 

    R33 water temp low

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    6 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

    http://mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/index.htmlbkbk

    I also recall reading a report in which poor air filtration caused damage to hot film MAF sensors like those used by the R35 will cause the surface of the film to become pitted and damaged. It's also generally well accepted that the silt taken in by the engine will also get into the oil as elevated silica content. I don't recommend anything other than dry paper filters as a result.

    The stock airbox is really not as bad as people claim it to be, people insist on changing what isn't broken though.

    Thanks nice good bit of info to know 

    R33 water temp low

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    15 hours ago, BK said:

    Look, your reasoning is just stupid on your coolant temp theory. You may or may not have a problem, but as Duncan mentioned earlier you've got no idea what your actual water temp is as your going purely by the gauge on the cluster.

    That means jack shit.

    "Normally" warmed up at anywhere between 70 - 90c the gauge will point slightly below horizontal - IF your gauge sender is correct. Yours probably isn't. Replace it for a start as they are not expensive.

    There is a coolant sensor for the gauge and and one for the ecu. You need to see what your ecu sensor is actually reading.

    For example, my 32 gauge cluster indicates a bit high when warm, pointing above the horizontal. I know it's not hot as indicated by the cluster as the engine ECU sensor as read by the Haltech will be reading fine at 80c. FYI stock thermostat opens at 78c.

    This is basically the same principle for the oil pressure cluster, it's hardly accurate and you need a REAL oil pressure sensor as there is no ecu oil pressure sensor standard, just a gauge cluster one.

    You need real sensors with a real way to be able to measure them.

    And yes the HKS filter is garbage as mentioned.

    Thanks for your input. Any recommendations for aftermarket water temp gauges? 

    R33 water temp low

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    On 04/03/2021 at 2:27 AM, joshuaho96 said:

    As others have said replace the HKS trash pods before the foam disintegrates and gets sucked into the turbos, they suck at filtering too which can cause engine wear over time, you'll see more silica content in the oil as a result. That has nothing to do with the coolant temperatures though. If you're driving -3C conditions then it's hard to say, especially if you're running a low temp thermostat and the heater. 5-7C you shouldn't see the engine dropping below thermostat crack temp in normal operating conditions.

    Why do soo many people hate on the hks mushroom intake? I understand in hot temps it ain't gonna be good but here in uk we rarely get hot summers and if at most 2 months of summer. 

     

    I also hardly drive the car it's a weekend toy have put 1k miles on in 1 year. I get that the mushroom filter can disintegrate but surely if you change it every year it shouldn't? 

    But Yh il look to see if it drops any further /gets worse, then start looking at replacing thermostat 

    R33 water temp low

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    7 hours ago, DaymoR32 said:

    if you are talking in mph im assuming you are british or american? 

    Whats the ambient temperature wherever you are at the moment?

     

     

    Thanks for the reply. It's winter here the temperature dropped to - 3c couple weeks ago. Now it's been around 5 to 7c. Could that be the reason? Could the air intake be sucking in cold air and cooling the engine? I do have an hks mushroom intake without any sort of box around it. 

    R33 water temp low

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    On 27/02/2021 at 8:00 AM, joshuaho96 said:

    While true that the coolant temperature gauge is "dumb" and won't show proper coolant temperatures, if you actually notice it dipping more than parallax error would allow then it's very likely that there is a problem. Get a Consult cable and Nissan Datascan and run some logs to see what the coolant temps actually are in those cases. If it's dropping below 80C first step is to replace the thermostat.

    I would probably want to be sure of the issue before actually replacing the thermostat, from what I can tell it's a real pain in the neck to replace.

    Thanks for the reply. I will get it checked out before I replace the thermostat 

    R33 water temp low

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    On 27/02/2021 at 6:39 AM, Duncan said:

    in any reasonably modern car, the temperature gauge does not actually show you a straight indication of the coolant temp. They have been setup so they show cold over on the left, "normal" about 80-110o will be in the middle, and then it will suddenly shoot up over say 110.  Any variation you are noticing is not an indication of an actual problem.

    If you want to actually monitor the coolant temp you need to either read the ECU data eg via a consult compatible display, or add a separate coolant temp gauge.

    Thanks for the reply. It has always been dead in the middle. Just recently started dropping towards the cold side when I drive fast over 40mph. When at idle it will come back up to almost the middle. I will get a proper water temp gauge and see what that reads. 

    R33 water temp low

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Hi everyone, was hoping someone could help with a problem my r33 gtst has developed. When driving the car above 40mph the water temp needle starts dropping slightly just below the middle level and would stay there untill idle. 

    When the car is idle the needle is near enough to the middle. When it's cold weather the needle will once again stay below the middle level.

    Could this be the thermostat? How do I check it? 

    Any help is appreciated. Thanks 

    Help installing pod filter

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted · Edited by 020king

    On 10/11/2019 at 8:07 AM, Murray_Calavera said:

    You seem to be scared of undoing those 4 bolts.

    You also seem to have hit a road block.

    My advice would be, remove the bolts. You might find it helps. If it doesn't, you'll be surprised that you can do them back up. 

    Don't be scared to have a go and try things. If your paranoid, take lots of photos and put the parts/bolts into resealable plastic bags and label them.

     

    Thanks everyone for the advice. I couldn't get to 2 of the bolts as those gold bolts can only be removed from the opposite side. I was scared of applying too much pressure on the hose and tearing it so in the end I decided to get 2 big flat head screw drivers and pry away and it came off easy. After that it was all good and its now on the car. The car sounds amazing can hear the turbo spool up loud like a jet. ???

    Help installing pod filter

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

    They're holding the AFM to the airbox. Seeing as you've loosened the hose clamp, if you want to slip the AFM off the inlet pipe, to make it easier to work on the AFM to airbox on the bench/lap/whatever, then just pulling the AFM out of the hose would be a good start.

    Will I have to remove those 4 bolts anyway to connect that side to the hks air intake? 

    Help installing pod filter

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    38 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

    You say you've unbolted everything but in the picture there are still many bolts?

    Go forth and remove bolts, this should be a very simple job. 

    Do I need to remove the 4 gold bolts circled in red? Everything else is unbolted and iv been trying to remove it via from the hose circled in green if I can free it from there then the whole box and maf will come out. Thanks for the help 

    20191109_180507.jpg

    R33 gtst leak in boot

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Hi everyone, I'm a new owner of an r33 gtst 40th anniversary edition. 

     

    I was recently cleaning the boot and spare wheel well and discovered a leak. I imported the car from japan 5months ago and there are signs of repair to rust and leaks in the spare wheel. I have searched forums and people keep pointing to the boot seals or rear light seals. Iv checked these and they seem good. I have attached pics so any help would be grateful. Thanks 20190928_181137.thumb.jpg.f224d92e9c3251f0186417ef217c160b.jpg

    20190928_181124.jpg

    20190928_181116.jpg

    20190928_181113.jpg

    20190928_181111.jpg

    20190928_181108.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...