cachorro
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Posts posted by cachorro
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On 6/18/2021 at 8:04 PM, Old man 32 GTR said:
I remember not that long ago this topic coming up on a GTR page on FB. Herman stated that a block brace is essential for any serious build. Then Anthony Maatouk chimed in and stated he has never used a block brace on a 26 block, however all his builds use an N1 block, claimed over 150 builds and not one block crack, tagged numerous customers to confirm, cars that have been running for years.
Now he also stated he is not against the brace and uses them in all of his RB30 builds. Just his opinion is they are not required in an N1 block. Now this sparked a lot of back and fourth between Maatouk and Herman. Was all very interesting to hear both sides of the argument. Herman stating he has seen numerous N1 blocks crack and Maatouk stating it was likely other factors that caused that, (pointing towards bad tune).
from a more personal point a mate of mine has a Maatouk’s built 2.7, running a 76/75 making 1000+ hp, been running for about 3 years now without issue. (Not braced).Herman's videos are on youtube on the Motive Video channel and they are worth the watch. I wonder on what grounds Maatouk claims a brace is not necessary. It could be true but as mentioned, where on the bell curve does each individual block sit. Also there could be dozens of combinations of variables. Do you have a link to the facebook post? Curious to read up on it.
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Contemplating a 8374 1.05 vs. a 9174 1.05 on a built RB26. I will be running a Step 1 HKS 272 cam. What spool difference can I expect between both turbos?
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9 hours ago, WantGTR said:
i agree with what you are saying, lots of variables to take into account. i was just trying to make a point
People tend to jump on the bandwagon and want to include all the latest fancy new parts whether they are necessary or not. With today's technology, making 1000 or more isnt as out of reach as it used to be. Fact is there are more and more engines out there making lots of power even without braces. Toward the top end of the power spectrum, i firmly believe none of these engines are reliable no matter how well they are built or what parts are thrown into them and they are no where near as 'streetable' as the internet makes them out to be.
Either way you go, grout/no grout, brace/no brace, billet/cast, it is going to cost money and expect failures - not if but when.
Happy Modding.
I think a brace is pretty clear that it is actually a very worthy mod. Yes, we can argue that every mechanical part can break with enough heat and stress but your points are blinding the degree to which this is highly probable vs. not.
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20 hours ago, r32-25t said:
26 blocks are common for cracking the deck, talking to Herman from prp said even full prepped all high power 26 blocks will crack eventually
What kind of cars are breaking 26 blocks? I was watching Herman's youtube videos from 2 years ago and he said a number of high power GTRs are running the brace and not cracking blocks. He did mention grout filling too. I'm sure times have changed..
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On 6/15/2021 at 4:01 AM, GTSBoy said:
I think I've seen RB26 (in particular) failures up high on the exhaust side near #4.
I'm sure the half-filled grout would help additionally strengthen to some degree. Especially with a PRP brace. Are blocks still cracking on that area with either or?
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Well.. The oil does not looks sparky or glittery. I started the car as well and everything sounded smooth. Not sure if I dodged a bullet quite yet.. Am also mailing out the oil to be analyzed
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16 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:
Do you have an oil temp sensor/ECU or a oil temp gauge? What sort of temps are you seeing at the moment?
Not running hot at the moment and piecing a single turbo build. Wanted general consensus around this setup based on experience
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Since i've removed the water heat exchanges on my RB26, I was contemplating on adding a small oil cooler. Can anybody vouch for the effectiveness of a smaller Setrab unit like this or this?
They're around 8x4-5 inch 10-13 row but I'm not interested in adding anything larger around the front bumper wheel well area. I'd rather keep it compact.
The setup is not a race car but a street car with repetitive high RPM reaches.
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5 hours ago, Shoota_77 said:
Do you mean the bit that bolts on top of the manifold or the butterfly sections down at each runner?
If its the bit on top I've got one dismantled at the moment. Of you haven't heard from me in a few days remind me and I'll take some pics.
The one on top of the manifold! There's no way i'm taking apart the actual throttle bodies.
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I'd like to take it apart to freshen it up and polish it but am having a hard time figuring out how to remove the shaft from the bracket. Can anybody provide instruction or have any idea on how to do this?
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I have an old school HKS Priest exhaust on my R33. I was thinking of swapping it but I like the style. It is a quiet exhaust and has a big old resonator. Does anybody have this type of quiet type muffler without the resonator? Would like any idea if it would sound raspy or not
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If you have not built an engine before and you cannot afford to lose this one, I would really consider sending your pieces to a knowledgeable machinist and rebuilder to take care of this for you
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The denominations you're listing sound like bulb sizes, not necessarily brightness.
Either way, you don't want to find the brightest bulb. Have you ever ridden a car in the night with a really bright dash? You will not be able to see outside at night. Also, the bulb may be bright but if it only shines one direction the bleeding from one area on your dash/cluster to another will be obvious and this does not look good. You'll want to find a bulb with true 360 degree coverage or diffusion to not make the bleeding so obvious.
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So there are 2 major areas I need confirmation with circled in red. I am in the process of piecing my single turbo setup and am eliminating some OEM vacuum sources. I've circled the areas of reference on the image attached
1) Charcoal canister : I've eliminated this (it's a track car). Is it ok if I loop both of these tubes behind the passenger side of the valve cover (pink and yellow) with one vacuum line?
2) Boost control lines: The OEM boost control setup was removed along with the turbos, of course. Per the green line it looks like this tubes route to an outlet on the bottom of the collector/plenum. I should plug this up, correct?
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Does anybody know if this intercooler will fit with the stock charge piping configuration? HKS does not address this on their product description
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Oh my gawd when will Garrett gift us these with T4 twin scroll
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21 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
US market modification method. Hit it with recipro saw and unscrew the stub!
"You and I, we not so different my friend" ?
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21 hours ago, BK said:
Question is, why remove front fitting for single turbo ? To use the rear or fit a dash fitting to the front ? Most use that front fitting for turbo oil return and remove rear one, blanking it with a plate. Makes way more sense than using the rear.
So I guess you are removing it to fit a 3/4 to an10 or 12 fitting for braided line ?
Yeah, that's exactly what i'm doing. Removing the front one to fit a 3/4 BSP to -10AN for the oil return. The rear one is getting blocked as well.
Anyways, for future reference, I ended up jacking it up even a little higher and swiveling out with some muscle. It's doable
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9 hours ago, r32-25t said:
Undo the engine mount nut, Jack the engine up on the passenger side, remove the alloy bracket from the block, remove the oil drain pipe,
May I ask how you’ve managed to remove the mount this way? I’ve done this and have loosened up the mount but it is still lodged between the stud and the block...
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5 hours ago, Duncan said:
Yes, as long as you don't the engine much.
- Why do you want to remove it? replacing split hose or going single turbo?
Yes, going single turbo setup
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38 minutes ago, r32-25t said:
Undo the engine mount nut, Jack the engine up on the passenger side, remove the alloy bracket from the block, remove the oil drain pipe,
Thanks. It’s ok if I leave the driver’s side bolted?
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Any tips or tricks on removing this piece? Is this a 24mm? It's lodged in pretty well between the motor mount and the AC bracket.
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Hi all. I’m currently installing my EFR7670 setup on my R33 GTR and have some questions on finishing it up
- Should i route the water feed line from the feed line coming from the back of the engine and T to the block, similar to the stock turbos setup? Can I just do the water feed from the block near cylinder 5 without having to bring in the rear line from the other side of the motor?
- Should I follow BW’s directions and plug the water feed on the bottom side and water return from the top side of the turbo?
- What’s the max boost I should consider? I know it runs on the smaller side but want to avoid over spinning the turbo (it’s a EWG 1.05 AR)
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4 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:
You might be better off getting one made by a local fabricator
Thinking you're probably right
Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted · Edited by cachorro
It will be a HKS T4 manifold w/ a 60mm gate. Would there be a difference?