MrStabby
-
Posts
3,712 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1 -
Feedback
100%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by MrStabby
-
-
Hmm K, thanks for that cause the hicas light never turns off so may be telling me something there, have to visit a workshop sometime soon and pop it on a hoist and get someone to look over it.
First check that your power steering fluid is up to the right level. If its low the HICAS light will come on. Mine was right at the bottom of the filler reservoir - bringing it up to half way (check the markings on the stalk connected to the cap) sorted it out.
HTH,
Kot
-
I'm pretty sure there are two different types of 595s - the SS595 and the 595 RS. The SS595s are these ones;
http://www.federaltyres.com.au/car/ss595.htm
The 595RS's were reviewed along with 8 other tyres in either Motor or Wheels recently. The short of it is that they were the best in the dry, the worst in the wet, and the cheapest by a fair margin. The mag suggested thay may be a good choice for ppl who do the occasional track day. They sort of seem like they're a bit more like an R spec tyre than the others in the test.
HTH,
Kot
-
A failed GTR turbine often results in an engine rebuild due to ingestion of the particulates. Some suggest as often as 2/3 need rebuild.
Why is an engine rebuild required? The turbine is downstream of the motor, so the bits would just head down the exhaust and get caught on the cat. Does the disintegrating turbine often take the bearings and compressor wheel with it on the way out (so its bits of compressor wheel that kills the motor)?
tnx,
Kot
-
Thanks for that - the gearbox is back in, and i'm enjoying the new single plate! (anyone want to buy a dual plate OS Giken in good condition?)
Yes i was doing it on the floor - son of a biatch!
Rgs,
Kot
-
Just to confirm - the lightweight shockproof HAS cured this issue for me.
HTH,
Kot
-
TomR33,
I have a v2.1 that's now connected to the loom, which i assume has power, but the loom is not connected to the stock ECU. There's male and female ECU connectors in the loom so it will be dead easy to connect this if required. I could not get any LEDs to light on the fconv - does one of the LEDs indicate power?
Also, i'm ready to help with the v2.x software - just let me know what u want me to do.
Rgs,
Kot
-
I have the gearbox shaft inside the pressure plate "fingers", but it needs to be about 10-15 mm higher to get into the clutch plate splines - problem is that the box is already hard up against the firewall. I've tried jacking the front of the motor, but this doesnt seem to prompt the rear of the motor to drop.
Any tips for getting the box in?
Tnx,
Kot
-
Is anyone with the older version (i.e. 2.x) willing to help develop download software?
I just need someone to test it for me.
Tom
Yeah, count me in. My car came with a silver box fconv pro so i guess that's a series two. The factory computer is currently connected, so i dont even know if the fconv works. These's an extra wiring loom under the carpet....
Rgs,
Kot
-
Re Oils, i'm about to do mine, and here's what i've decided on (and how much you need according to the R32 shop manual);
Gearbox and front diff - Redline lightweight shockproof (4.1 and 1 litre)
Rear Diff - Redline 75W-90 (1.5 liters)
Engine - Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 (4.5 litres, or 4.9 with new filter) - because i have some. Next time i'll use a 0W-40 or 5W-40 fully synthetic, maybe even the Delvac again - it will certainly keep the engine clean. I'm also going to add a remote filter mount, oil cooler, and oil temperature gauge. That "report your engine failure" thread is making me paranoid.....and i want to do some track work.
Notes;
- The redline stuff is expensive, but in theory will be good for 300,000 kms so i wont be changing it again. At a minimum go for a fully synthetic 75W-90 for the gearbox.
- Make sure you use an LSD compatible oil in the rear diff
- You can use lightweight shockproof in the rear diff, but apparently the LSD will lock a bit so you'd notice some chatter when turning tightly. I wanted to avoid that, hence the use of the 75W-90.
- Gearbox requires GL-4 spec, diffs require GL-5 spec. FWIW I doubt any fully synths would be lower than GL-5.
HTH,
Kot
-
Tnx Dirt & Kami, the gearbox is out! Spent all day today getting the twin plate cage apart (three broken allen keys later and i had to drill the last bolt out...) anyway its done now.
Got any tips for flywheel bolts? Obviously i'll need to fix the flywheel somehow.
Cheers,
Kot
-
I think the easiest way is to remove the gearbox xmember then lower the gearbox which tilts the whole box/motor back; then you can get at the bolt.
Regards,
Saliya
Hi,
The xmember is already lowered - i still cant reach.
Cheers,
Kot
-
From the workshop manual it looks like there's a bolt at 12oclock - how do i get this out? There doesnt seem to be any access. Which side should i come at it from - exhaust or front driveshart (I havent removed either at this stage).
Tnx,
Kot
-
I've had the same thing a few times recently, co-inciding with a cold snap of weather. Since i'm doing the clutch now, the box oil will be replaced with Redline lightweight shockproof at the same time, which i hope will help. If you're not already running a fully synthetic 75W-90 or shockproof in your box, it might be worth trying that out first. Synthetics perform much better at lower temperatures than minerals, and its a much cheaper option than pulling the box...
Kot.
-
Hi All,
Car is a R32 GTR. The clutch is reportedly a twin plate OS giken. Its very grabby, has a very frim pedal and feels like it must have a solid center (ie no springs to absorb the shock, so its pummels the box and diff when it grabs). The car is near stock and makes 243 rwkw when the boost is wound up. IMO the clutch is OTT for this setup so i am looking at a more traffic freindly single plate.
There is some slightly crunchy bearing noise when the clutch finally fully grabs, or if you give it some throttle very low in the rev range while the clutch is engaged. What bearing is this likely to be? Obviously i'll replace the release bearing with the new pressure plate, but what else? IIRC there's a bearing in the rear of the crank that the shaft from the gearbox rests in (is that the spigot?) so i'll replace that while its all apart. Are there any other bearings (in the gearbox?) that may need attention or i should do while its all apart?
Cheers,
Kot
Stock Turbo Failure
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
In a recent thread I read that the stock ceramic turbine wheels fail because the bonding that holds the wheel on the shaft fails due to heat. So presumably those of us still running stock turbos can reduce the risk of failure by ensuring they dont get too hot. So - how are the turbos cooled? Is it by the coolant or oil or both?
If its by the oil, then perhaps a proportion of blame for many failures is due to the poor (non-existant) oil cooling?
Any errors in this info/logic?
Tnx,
Kot