GoHashiriya
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Posts posted by GoHashiriya
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17 hours ago, Kip said:
News to me. I didn't run across any when I researched them.
A quick google returned: “Stay away from japaneseclassics. They are well known now in the importing community that they take trash cars, slap a coat of paint and up mark a huge amount. You can check out team_free_spirt on insta. They do alot of the exposing right now”
I can’t validate this but it would be cause for concern for me, especially if I’m considering buying sight unseen.
What this guy is saying is a pretty common practice in the market these days. I can say that team free spirit provide a lot of exposure on these efforts.
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15 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:
Yeah, if he has one lying around you could send yours in on an exchange basis.
Yeah, great guy that Matt, giving very comprehensive emails with quick responses. He told me it’ll be plug and play for the ECU, which may potentially get me out on track at 600kph by the end of the month or June.
Anyone wanna buy a HKS SLD..
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On 4/15/2024 at 10:36 PM, Duncan said:
I'm not clear on what makes a car more valuable for collectors because making money from owning a car seems so unlikely in my life....
I think this is applicable for most.
My car was ~2,000,000 JPY in 2020
Total expenses are around ~5,000,000 JPY excluding fuel.
Selling price could be anywhere between ~5,000,000 JPY to ~7,000,000 JPY depending on how desperate the American.
Sure, I could have stored it in that time but there are still storage costs “carry costs” as we call it in industry - insurance, garage, electricity, maintenance, etc. and possibly made 100% (nominal return), but I don’t think that’s why most of us are here.
Apologies for the deviation.
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Speaking with Matt now, seems to be a more cost effective solution to just buy new from Matt - approx 300 EUR - then my local electronics store just told me EUR 100 to solder it in and I guess I'm good to go 600kph.
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50 minutes ago, UWISSH! said:
Sorry if I missed it somewhere, but why are you not just getting an aftermarket ecu and be done?
Basically, I want to drive at the track ASAP without the 180kph limiter. Nistune offers an element of future-proofing and means I won't have to butcher the harness (comparatively to installing the HKS SLD).
Power FC is an option but everyone has told me not to buy this.
Link/Haltech is just not worth it for me, cost wise.
Issue with Nistune is I'm too spastic to solder the board myself. So that leaves buying the aforementioned pre-installed used one from a seller on eBay, then reflashing it with the stock map and killing the limiter.
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7 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
Just buy a software license and put the stock maps into the (tuned for a worked engine) Nistune. It is not difficult.
I cannot imagine owning Nistune without owning Nistune Software. Just....how could anyone contemplate it?
56 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:If you don't have a friend with a Nistune license just buy one. Then you can flash whatever ROM dump you want. The Nistune ROM pack has the actual stock maps for literally every ER34 ECU as far as I can tell, both AT and MT.
Sorry, I should be clear, buying the software license is not a problem. The problem is my other source of information has told me that depending on the Nistune feature pack version, I may not be able to flash a base map myself and *may* require a feature pack update at Nistune. Does this sound accurate?
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TBH, I’ve hit a bit of a dead end with this.
The Nistune’d ECU for sale is mapped for a big turbo, which is completely different to my stock motor. My friend (Nistune user) tells me I’ll need to get a new base map on it (no shit), which could - depending on the age of the Nistune board - mean sending it off to Nistune themselves to get it done. Price for this ECU is €355. Then I’ve still gotta buy a license.
Sending my ECU for installation at Nistune costs about €400 (~AUD 700) including a license. So, plus shipping will be about another €200/AUD 350 (EMS), total around €600. I imagine downtime around a month. This seems to be the smartest option. Or have a crack at the soldering myself - I’m not that cack-handed.
At this point I’m at Power FC money - does it work with an AT harness.. I can’t remember. Yes, PFC is not as good as the Nistune, but this option requires zero downtime.
Then I’m thinking f**k it, this is a pain in the ass, I just wanna go rag it on the track; so SLD and then Nistune over winter… I figure I can do some reconstructive surgery on the harness with the some nice little crimps and heat shrink and it’ll look as good as Michael Jackson in his final form.
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11 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
There is no impact. Granted, mine is in an R32, so there are a couple of other things going on, but.... my auto ECU came with the auto engine. Bolted it up to the manual gearbag and suddenly the TCU is just spare parts along for the ride. The ECU doesn't (really) care.
Nistune is the fixer of all wrongs. I have no ABS CU or traction control. That would be a recipe for fault codes and permalit check engine light. But....just go into the diagnostics pages and turn them off. Presto, ECU no longer cares that it can't talk to those CUs.
If you're worried about the TCS light being lit on the dashboard for some rason (that I am not catching right now), then.... remove the globe. No-one needs the TCS anyway. That is what throttle control is for. I certainly don't have it - haven't missed it in 12-13 years or so. Never wanted it.
That’s the one. Yeah, the seller has confirmed the base ECU is from a manual car.
To be honest, I’m only worried about the TCS light being illuminated due to registration here in NL - unsure on rules. Back in Japan, we weren’t allowed to have any permalit error-related lights (or so my shaken guy said).
Looks like this Nistune is the way to go then, appreciate it GTSBoy, and the others that chimed in.
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11 hours ago, Duncan said:
I don't know the answer, but my uneducated guess is this will not work (or, not as you want it to).
I would wire the SLD into VSS1, I bet that is what the limiter uses
However, I also bet the ECU compares VSS1 and VSS2 and throws and error if they are different.
Best suggestion I can make is wire it into VSS1 and see how you go, I guess the error will only appear above 180 when then SLD is active. If it appears at lower speeds put a switch into the SLD earth (or power supply) and only turn it on when you need to go over 180.
Thank you Duncan, and I will say, before reading GTSBoy’s response, this was more or less my logic.
9 hours ago, GTSBoy said:OK, so. Look very closely at this.
Here is a snip of the ECU diagram.
Note that the VSS (Vehicle Speed Signal) input to the ECU is sent from the speedo head. The speed sensor on the gearbox (whether auto or manual) is connected to the speedo, and the speedo converts that AC voltage signal to a 0-5V DC PWM signal that the ECU reads.
Pin 58 is NOT used by the ECU. It is used by the TCU. And unlike Duncan's thought on the matter, I would think that the only comparison done (by the TCU) would between trans output shaft speed and engine rpm. This so that the TCU can know whether the lockup converter is doing its thing, the clutches are managing shifts appropriately, etc etc.
I would be willing to bet that the only speed signal you need to intercept with any speed cut defender, regardless of auto or manual transmission, would be the VSS into pin 29. That is the only speed signal available on a manual.
And here is the rub. Your car is a manual. So why are we even having this conversation. There is NO speed signal input on pin 58 on your car right now and it runs just fine. That should tell you how important that pin is for your manual ECU.
I can’t argue with that. The part I couldn’t get past was thinking that the speed sensor in the 30A was replacing whatever was in the AT transmission before, and therefore completing the prior circuit.
The other thing that I failed to mention was that, across all HKS documents, despite mentioning compatibility with AT R34s, there is no mention of a different pin. These Japanese instructions appear to predate early man, so there’s always room for error.
I’m speaking with the seller of this R34 GTT ECU with Nistune at the moment. It’s pretty cheap and eliminates the possibility of me soldering my fingers to the ECU when installing the board myself. I am yet to confirm whether the base ECU is from an MT or AT car, so the question is:
When using an MT ECU in an AT car, and then losing the TCU part, are there any other implications?
Another thing I’m not sure of is whether I can pass local regs with a TCS warning. Of course, swapping between ECUs is a fairly simple task.
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I say this and there’s a Nistune r34 GTT MT ECU for sale on eBay.de but I need to figure out compatibility between the AT harness and MT ECU - TCS considered. I figure this HKS SLD is a quick bandaid anyhow.
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3 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:
Any chance you can get a Nistune board installed instead and set the speed limit to whatever your tires can handle?
It’s a high priority but I can’t get a Nistune in before my next Nurburgring trip. 180 is pretty easy to hit on the back straight of the GP course. I should have got the Nistune installed in Japan - my friend offered to solder the board - but I had the same problem of just not wanting any downtime for the car. My guess is this winter when I rebuild the rear subframe (which is what I said back in 2022)
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Hi all,
I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.
The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals:
Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2)
Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only
Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment?
The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.
R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
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Cheers, tbh I didn’t even know this was a business. I’m guessing a seat upholstery company or similar is where I need to go. I just want something I can put stuff on, like backpacks and dildos, that won’t fall down into the gaps and crevices. A few hundred USD is as far as I’m willing to go. I also don’t want it to be made from wood for weight purposes.
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On 3/13/2024 at 10:34 PM, Murray_Calavera said:
The bride website is pretty good for playing machy machy with their seats/rails.
https://bride-jp.com/en/seatrail/
This and yahoo auction. Use google translate and search to see what you can get there. You'll also find - if applicable - all the other seats that fit the mounts you need.
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Last year, I went on a couple of trips with my mate who has a 500hp R34 GTT sedan. I have a stock R34 GTT coupe. When it came to fill-up time, I was shocked to see we were putting near-identical amounts in. On these trips, I drove a lot less efficiently than him - keeping the revs higher - and being considerably more aggressively on back roads. Justification: it was Japan and gasoline is as cheap as piss.
My car doesn't have any fuel consumption related issues. I can't remember exactly what I can get from a tank but roughly 4-500kms seems about right.
As far as my friend's motor is concerned, I don't know the precise details of his build but it's something along the lines of: stock bottom end, tomei pon cams, bigger hot side, injectors, Nismo fuel pump, front-facing plenum and Nistune.
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On 1/9/2024 at 2:26 PM, myktek said:
Konig Heliograms
19x8.5 ET32 225/40/19
19x9.5 ET35 265/35/19
On Tein coilovers, no rubbing
Fitment is nice and overall it looks good, albeit 19s are too big for me - I've been tempted to go with 17s. Did you roll the fenders and is there any rubbing up front at lock?
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On 1/8/2024 at 4:50 PM, shortyboy said:
Adapters came in. Got them from Caold Technology in Australia. 20mm in the front and 15mm in the rear. Front looks like it could take another 5mm. Work Mesiter S1 3P 18x9.5 and 18x10.5 +49. Coilovers are Blitz, may go lower a bit but the exhaust is already scraping alot of driveways. 😂
You're right, the front needs about another 5mm and a size wider on the tires. Rear needs to lose about 10mm in offset.
The wheels work well with the car though, I would just see if there's any machining that can be done with the adaptor and original studs. Studs are easy to replace so you shouldn't be too frightened about shortening them. Just buy some spares first. Of course it's your car, not mine, so do what you want.
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Hi all,
Has anyone ever seen replacement panels for the rear seats in an R34 2-door? To comply with local laws I must remove the rear seats to keep the front buckets, this is the same as Japan but now I face the task every year as opposed to two years. Seeing as the rear seats never get used anyway, I'm thinking some sort of carpet-covered deck and panel to cover the bottom and upright portions of the rear seat area would be a visually pleasing addition and serves as somewhere to put my bag - that plus it would work well with a half cage if I persist to use the car on track.
Something like what can be seen here in this F82.
Seems easy enough to make, but if I can buy something it would save me the time (which I don't have much of at the moment).
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I installed them on my R34. Would recommend. There's an installation guide by Wisesquare (in Japanese) on youtube that will answer all your questions.
My advice, and this is where a couple of friends screwed up; stretch the sealant out evenly to about 150% it's length before inserting. 2/3 of my mates had to redo theirs because they didn't apply the sealant correctly. You absolutely do not want to do this twice.
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Wow, thank you. Maybe I can finally get my neutral switch wired up.
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Yeah, similar thing with the R34. I just bought a new vent assembly from yahoo auction - 11,000 JPY iirc
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Oh nice, could really do with a lot of these parts on all the R chassis models
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On 3/9/2024 at 1:28 AM, Kip said:
Late to the party on this one, but responding anyway.
Fellow 'murican here. I bought mine through RHD Specialties in Washington state. They specialize in JDM importing. They find good cars, bring them in, federalize them, and register them. For me, it was a matter of just taking all the Washington state paperwork and sale bill to the local BMV and registering it. Well, I needed a VIN check by the police, but that was it. I highly recommend RHD Specialties. Easy to work with. Enthusiasts. Good guys.
Wasn’t there some bad publicity circulating about these guys at some point on social media?
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Just to nip this one in the bud, the car passed Netherlands inspection with these headlights last week.
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Hello from the US - looking to buy ER34
in Newbie Introductions
Posted
I have a feeling team free spirit does this. A while ago, the guy (whoever manages that page) sent me previous auction records for my car which was nice of him. Fortunately in my case it all checked out