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GoHashiriya

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    Japan

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    ER34

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  1. Or perhaps just take it back to the shop?
  2. I'm not saying I know what it is, but to me it doesn't sound like it's knocking. When my VQ35 started knocking, the noise was more of a defined knock, where this sounds like a groan, from vibration I presume. How's your oil pressure?
  3. Did you get a new bung? When I did mine it was pretty manky looking and wouldn't back screw-in properly. I managed to get it to seal (for now) and tighten up to about 25-30nm but I have since bought a new one with the intention of replacing it.
  4. Thanks as always GTSBoy. I am just trying to figure out what the hypothesis is here, just in case I'm missing something. I'm going to have to wait a week or so until I can use the lift at the local shop so its good to gather a list of potential failure items. Rack bushes have been ordered. I'm going to assume the crossmember is okay but will give it a thorough check when the car is on the lift. I'll document my findings here for anyone else in the same position.
  5. Hi all, I got an alignment today to coincide with getting the tension rods replaced and the steering pulling to the left. Initially, I thought this would just be a routine alignment to go with the tension rods being replaced; however there was something weird picked-up by the shop to explain why the car was pulling to the left. The last alignment was around three months ago and the toe was set at zero. I hit a sizeable bump in the road about 2 months ago but there was no noticeable steering issues immediately following this. Only recently, say a week or so after changing the tension rods did I notice the steering wheel was cocked to the right, even when there was contrarian camber in the road. When stationary, I can feel a slight click/knock through the steering wheel when intially turning. This was actually why I changed the tension rods, well this and leaky TR bushes. I'm sure the steering rack bushes need replacing after >200k kms but could this be the source of the problem? As you can see, there seems to be a lateral shift in something in the front that caused the toe to move to +1.6 L/-1.5 R, you'd assume somewhere in the vicinity of the rack given the movement. I'm assuming the toe was true (@ about zero) prior to this shift. Using my broken Japanese, I was able to figure out the mechanic was saying "the alignment is fine now but it will change again when subject to certain lateral forces", "something something steering rack something" - I couldnt figure out whether he was saying bush or something else here. I should note that I've recently tried (with my hands) to move the front wheels with the car in the air but it felt solid.
  6. Hi all, I've recently been suffering from a buggered sunroof motor; it works a bit, then not, then will stay half open until I hex key it back into place. I pulled the sunroof motor from its mount and tried running it with the interior buttons and it acts the same. Now, I've been having a nightmare trying to find a replacement, it's the same unit in the S15, Z10 (cube) and R34 - Nissan discontinued it in 2013. I've searched breaker's yards in the UK, Japan, Aus and Canada to no avail. I don't want to leave it as a dud. Is it possible to have something like this repaired by an electric motor wizard of some sort? Who would you go to for something like this? Any suggestions on how to fix it would be great. I'll consider getting a plexiglass window fixed in there if I fail entirely with this.
  7. Did you also buy your car from Trust Kikaku?
  8. Good call, and normally that would be an easy option, say, if I were still in the UK. Selling to the Japanese in Japan (as a foreigner) carries it's own problems. I'll have to give this a bit more thought when I receive the replacements.
  9. Appreciate this. I should've researched more tbh, as this seems like a better route. I was a sucker for them being sold by Kazama Auto, a fairly reputable company over in Japan. The company are replacing them under warranty; they have one set left, so presumably, if the next batch fail I can get a refund. The Kazama Auto coils have pretty good reviews on the Japanese sites, although most seem to describe what is essentially placebo. There's quite a few 1JZs running them as far as i could see. They mentioned in my returns email it's not advisable to run 5x Kazama "high intensity coils" plus 1x other brand, although in my experience, mix and match coils hasn't been a problem.
  10. Thanks GTSboy appreciate the detail a lot. I understand it's a lottery with these, although, I was under the impression with them being endorsed by Kazama Auto they'd be better. A mechanic friend of mine enlightened me by saying "you know those are Chinese too, right?" It seems like I would be best off returning the set and whacking the generic Hanshin back in.
  11. Hahaha, noted. I was unfortunately way too uninformed to do this. Not to mention the rule of 'if it aint broke don't fix it'. But in light of my mistake, and you having heaps of experience with these cars, would you be able to share any info that may help my case?
  12. Hi all, after some code guessing last week I purchased some new Kazama Auto ignition coils (red ones). After installation, and driving about 30kms, the car developed a misfire. Last night I identified it as coil number one. I unplugged each coil to find the faulty bugger only to realise I could do the check with Nisdatascan. First time round I didnt apply any dielectric grease. So, last night I went ahead and applied the grease to see if it would rectify the issue; this is when I found the boot on one of the coil packs appeared to be disfigured at the tip, probably from heat-damage (see pic). I then went ahead and dropped in one of the old coils which appeared to rectify the issue, at least for the five mins I ran the car for after. Now, I'm looking to return the coil pack and preferably get a single replacement for the dud, but it would help if I could explain why this may have happened? I've bought cheap coils before that have been dead on arrival but wouldn't expect this from a name brand - despite they're probably less-than-OEM quality. The engine and ECU is stock - there is no third-party wiring apart from for the AT-MT swap. I checked the harness in the wheel arch for damage - as the car is low and running larger wheels - it's visually intact. The ignition coil harness appeared to have been replaced by the previous owner. I replaced the plugs this time round. Just FYI: the coils didn't need replacing in the first place, after getting intermittent error codes which seemed to clear once they disappeared from the dash, I guessed it may have been the ignition coils. Actually, it was code 17, for the TCS motor to which I've got another on the way now.
  13. I’m unsure whether the non-NEO 25det has the charcoal canister purge valve sitting above-back of the head but mine was making a pretty irritating ticking (could call it clicking) sound. I replaced it quick so was unable to determine when it made the sound. It seemed to be random to me.
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