GoHashiriya
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Posts posted by GoHashiriya
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We just topped it up with gas and it works fine. But that doesn’t rule out a leak. We haven’t found anything yet.
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On 4/11/2022 at 8:34 PM, dyl33 said:
Webasto H300 sunroof fit skylines perfectly.
How perfectly, like fit in the factory sunroof opening?
These things are seemingly discontinued also - unsurprisingly. But there still seem to be a few kicking around for sale online. Not cheap on the Japan sites.
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On 4/13/2022 at 4:08 PM, GTSBoy said:
I would ask the question....is it possible to fix the roof with some steel to replace the bloody stupid glass that someone** jammed in there mistakenly thinking it was a good thing?
**Yes. I'm including Nissan.
Yeah, I've thought about this too. For me, this would be a back-in-the-UK kinda thing as I have the issue that basically no one has that they can't properly converse with body shops and subsequently be able to trust them.
I do like the extra light that comes through from having a 20-odd kg scrap assembly at the highest point of the car though. 😒
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On 4/12/2022 at 7:11 PM, dyl33 said:
This is a Webasto Hollandia 300 in an R33. Seen them in lots of 33's & 34's
Uv glass, auto close, rain sensor etc.
Would be easy to find one that fits, not sure why you would want to find one that retains the factory glass.
I think most of the major parts are available from nissan at retarded prices.
25+ year old 2nd hand sunroof what could go wrong.
I’ve seen those for sale over here too. The thing is, I don’t particularly like the idea of some guy I can barely communicate with cutting up the roof panel. So I should rephrase my question to: is there an option to fit a third party sunroof in the factory sunroof-spec roof panel without cutting up the OEM roof panel?
Yep, OEM prices for sunroof components are at dumb prices. >20k yen for one of the pulley wires.
It’s possible a factory 25yr old sunroof is better than a post-break-in damaged sunroof assembly. I’d go for it provided the local hoarders don’t bid into the extremes for it.
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On 4/12/2022 at 6:17 PM, EliseT said:
I'll keep my eye out for your R34 if you can do the same for my R33?
Haha sure. One of the guys here pointed out a complete 34 assembly in Aus but shipping was outrageous. So for me it has to be in Europe or Japan.
FYI, there is an HCR33 sunroof for sale on yahoo auction for 10,000 yen:
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/s1041724665
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I had to buy a harness that sits between the OEM harness and the aftermarket stereo. The adaptor harness had its own earth, perhaps its that. It should be a pretty simple thing to install.
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On 4/11/2022 at 11:04 PM, GTSBoy said:
'Murica! f**k (the ozone layer) yeah!
My guess is that Japan will be like here. They may still eat whale meat, but they're pretty tight on a lot of climate/pollution regs, etc.
From my understanding Japan is more like the US. When searching the Japanese sites there were posts encouraging you to DIY it with a can. Is my mechanic a qualified AC guy, probably not, but he's nice enough to speak with me in Japanglish and seems pretty honest, so what can I do..
Japan has tight regs but operates on an honesty-based system, sort of like a "you can do this, but don't do it". And guess what, the regs are loosely enforced.
Engine oil goes in the trash which differs to the UK.
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On 4/12/2022 at 10:00 AM, dyl33 said:
Your best bet is to go a quality aftermarket sunroof or if you have heaps of money Nissan still make most parts I believe https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3915-rb25det/body/736/
Is it possible to (not in a money-no-object sense) to get an aftermarket sunroof to fit the stock cut-out? I do wonder because I've been dealing with sunroof trauma for about 9 months now on my R34 and have always seen the aftermarket ones advertised. It would be great to get an aftermarket system that retains the stock glass.
On a side-note, some of the sunroof parts from Nissan are discontinued. I've occasionally seen R33 sunroof assemblies floating around international auctions whilst on my hunt for an R34 one.
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On 4/11/2022 at 4:27 PM, BK said:
Crap - A relay works or it doesn't. The contacts are good or they're not. When you say tested out of car, you mean you put 12v on the coil to activate then tested for 0 ohm across contacts right ?
No, not that specific. I mean I applied 12v to it and listened to it click. Well, good to know I should be doing it that way for future reference.
Just picked up the new relay from Nissan so the relay will get replaced anyhow. If no change, I'll just keep the old one for a spare.
On 4/11/2022 at 5:34 PM, joshuaho96 said:If it is low on refrigerant definitely do not just recharge and keep going. Leaks let moisture into the system which is a good way to saturate the receiver/drier with water and start damaging the compressor and other components with internal corrosion.
Also good to know. I'll try and look over the system for any leaks - from the front there is nothing visible but I realise it goes back toward the cabin. Are there any famed spots to pay attention to?
I won't be able to progress with this until the weekend.
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Sorry, I should have mentioned the relay has been tested (out of the car) and it seemed fine. However, I did read a post by someone in an earlier thread mentioning they tested relays, they tested okay, then tried a relay from another car which solved the problem.
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On 4/10/2022 at 6:59 PM, BK said:
Maybe stuffed relay then ? Test the relay external to car first.
Ordered a relay today (also arrives today 😀), along with a new pressure switch - it was cheap okay.
Did the bypass-the-relay trick this morning and compressor fired up, had cold air, ran it for a couple minutes then shut it off just in case any damage would be caused.
I did not notice the usual high-rpm adjustment, but it can be tricky given that the car was warming-up and I run an Auto ECU on a manual that's kind of all over the place around idle.
Mechanic will switch out the pressure switch and re-gas the AC system this weekend. Im under the assumption pulling the pressure switch will release gas. Then we'll go from there.
I bottled-it when it came to bridging the pressure switch as there were 3-pins and I didn't know which to bridge. Pin 1 was earth and then the other two went to the ECU.
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I should mention that there is no change in engine RPM when the AC button has been pressed.
I will try bridging the pressure switch if necessary once the gas status has been confirmed.
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Hi all,
I noticed last week that the AC stopped working, we've just come out of winter and it is most noticeable now. That said, how long it has been non-functional for is beyond me - last summer it worked fine. I didn't notice any issues up until December, then the car was rarely used over the winter.
When I say not working, the green AC light illuminates but the compressor doesn't start. Blowers are fine.
I've ran through the diagnostic procedure, nothing under step 2, I just get 20. No issues under step 3. Under step 4, it cycles through the different outputs, just no actual AC.
I checked the the cabin air temp sensor next to the steering wheel, just in case I disconnected it when installing the alarm recently - it's fine.
All fuses have been checked.
I have tested the relay, it's fine - there is 12v to pin 1 and (I think) 3. However, the relay does not click when the AC button is pressed. Also, from prodding the compressor wire, there seems to be no 12V under any state. I'm guessing the ECU is not grounding the relay.
My question is, what are the likely causes for this - no gas (unfortunately this is something I can't check until next w/e), or sensor? A little direction would help a lot. Japan is getting hot AF.
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On 4/8/2022 at 3:15 PM, joshuaho96 said:
Wasn't there a guy that mentioned having issues with running synthetic gear oil during the break-in period?
Maybe me. Transmission started whining after 3k kms at a track day.
I used the factory-filled stuff for run-in, then changed to fully synthetic Syntrans "GL4+" 75W-90 (TAF-X) at about 800kms. When my new box comes I plan to just use the Nissan GL4 75W-85 consistently.
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I managed to find a used motor and bought it just for peace of mind. Well, it didnt help at all, the issue still persists. This one seems to have different quirks, perhaps it's also a dud. I need to pull the rails out and test the switch. The issue is perhaps something to do with the sliding mechanism.
This won't get fixed in a hurry because pulling the sunroof out and leaving the car with a hole in the top is a bit of a pain without a garage/secure parking.
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On 3/28/2022 at 4:24 PM, mlr said:
But not as bad as Sydney drivers
Can't compare. But they're not as bad as Manila drivers. Though they're significantly worse than Northern European drivers
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Word of warning: the Japanese are terrible drivers
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Looks good! Dare I say my undercarriage was in better (looking) condition when I bought the car at 230k kms in 2020. It looks like a clean car - I'd advise changing all suspension bushes/ball joints off the bat. Definitely replace the steering rack bushes to avoid alignment nightmares.
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I was considering the 350Z brembos but opted to get the stock ones refurbished and some higher quality pads (Dixcel Z type vs OEM previously) plus slotted rotors - bit of a waste for the rotors but I needed new ones anyway.
Stopping performance is plenty for my track use, in fact it was pretty good anyway on the stock brakes with semi-slicks.
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I don't know. But you could try cross-referencing part numbers on Nissan EPC - that's usually where I would start. At the same time you could accumulate all the part numbers for the items you need.
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Don't bother, try to get 9.5s if you can, up to a max of +20 and it will be "about right" but verging on too agggressive. You will probably need a slight fender roll with that. The worst thing is, you'll never be able to max out the tire sizes for your rim - this is the situation I'm in with rear 10j +20. I can get a 265 width (narrow-design) tire on there - forget CR-1s or AD08s - but this width would fit better on a 9.5.
9.75 is an odd size. If they're XXRs, just save your money.
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Are you okay getting parts from Japan at the moment? My local post office won't let me send anything to the UK currently due to the Ukraine situation. DHL, etc seem to be okay but the prices are well.. unenticing.
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I had some weird hesitation issues after installing my Walbro 255, I have been meaning to try it with a 12v supply but just haven't gotten around to it. I've since returned it to the stock pump as the pump wasn't the cause of my issues in the first place anyway.
I'm interested to know how your situation goes.
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On 3/11/2022 at 2:36 PM, GTSBoy said:
So....there's your answer.
But..... normally you do not do it this way. Normally the alarm has its own remote and the alarm has an output when you disarm it that signals the car's locking system to unlock. Not the other way around, like your alarm's instructions seem to indicate.
Why not buy a UK suitable alarm and install that?
I found, with the help of @tsuokun, that the hazard flash was only a feature on S2 R34s, it can be retrofitted to S1 but the Nissan/Altia components appear to be discontinued.
It's possible to use an aftermarket kit which is apparently popular here.
Tsuokun mentioned the differentiation of pulses for unlocking/locking, that's why there's a need to tap the hazards. So I've basically just gone and got an aftermarket retrofit kit for it.
In hindsight, yeah you're probably right. But a more sophisticated alarm would be more difficult for me to install, one would think. Plus I would like to get something in the car ASAP. Cheers
R34 GTT AC not working - compressor not starting
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Tried. Mechanic doesn’t have it as he’s not an AC specialist. Best course of action is to find an AC guy, or just come back in a few months and get him to check the pressure