Fizurg

Hi, I'm putting a set a factory turbos on my R32 GTR and I've got two sets of wastgate actuators with different part numbers and I'm not sure what to use? one set is 430819-205 and the other is 430819-363. I rang my local Nissan dealership but they didn't seem to know. Is there any difference between them?

yeah that is my next concern. im based in NZ and im not really sure who to use. there are plenty of companies that rebuild turbos but how to know which one will be good could be tough

cool as. this option I guess makes the most sense. it gets my car back on the road and although its not ideal as far as performance goes, there are worse things than having a factory original R32 GTR. its also by far the easiest sell to the Mrs which makes life easier. Cheers for all the help ive been given so far. ive been a member of many car forums over the years and they have always been by far the best source of information ive ever found. this one in particular is active, knowledgeable and friendly, so very much appreciated by me. im sure i will have more stupid questions going forward.

OK, so what turbos could i run? can i have my factory turbos rebuilt with steel internals and they will bolt on and run fine? if not having a tune was an option what are the best turbos to put on? i know this doesn't fit well with performance but realistically the car wont be drivable for years if what i do will be too expensive and it would just be nice to be able to drive it.

So if I changed the turbos and put in a Nistune. Would the base map be safe to drive on?

Would this really work? Also why won’t the MAFs work with an aftermarket ECU?

Awesome, so no issues there then. I had planned to build the car with a lot more power and build the type of car i dreamed of as a teenager. but since buying it my partner has gotten pregnant and so spending money on toys has gotten slightly harder to justify. no i plan to ust get it back on the road and keep it as factory as possible, with only a few bolt ons.

so i guess the main question is . am i better off having it driveable but not running properly or not driving at all? also another question. where is the factory ecu? id like to leave then engine bay look factory and ive been told to use an Nistune as it looks factory but if something like a haltech will be better and be hidden anyway so it wont matter?

cheers for the reply. just having it driveable would be nice. then i could take it to the tuners and have an ecu fitted and tuned when i have the money. how do you limit the boost to 0.5 bar?

This is probably a stupid question, but i have a factory standard R32 GTR which has blown its standard turbos. i dont have a lot of money at the moment so its just sitting there doing nothing. if i replaced the factory turbos with -9s and ran factory boost would the car be safe to drive? an aftermarket ecu is on the cards in the future but sadly funds wont aloow it at the moment.

He said that there was no reason to go bigger than drop in cams as he had managed to get up around 650kw with these cams so going bigger just wasn't necessary.

The guy that's going to tune the car has recommended Tomei poncams type B. i know these arent a forum favorite but will probably go for them since thats what the tuner is comfortable with.

VCAM looks amazing but I think it might be out of budget sadly.

The head will be rebuilt so if there's work like that then it should be easy enough to get it done. i forgot to mention in my last post that driveabilty a street manners including fuel economy will be more important than absolute performance and things like wanting a lumpy idle.

Now with the turbo decided. What cams would you recommend to match an EFR8374 with 1.05 AR on an RB26?