AtomicBomberMan

Hi all, i have had a change in heart and wish to sell these items. Both are brand new in box and cost me A LOT more than what i a selling it for. Trust Oil Pump Brand new in box includes a new genuine nissan oil seal and genuine nissan gasket. $1550 delivered Copied these details, It is commonly known that the stock oil pump on the RB26 engines will starve tuned engines of oil at high RPM's. When running an engine with so much time and money spent, why risk the inevitable with a stock pump? With the Greddy High Flow Oil Pump, the flow capacity will increase by 23-30% at any RPM range when compared to the stock pump. Trust guarantees high strength due to the SCM435 chrome molybdenum steel material used for the gearing. To get the most from your set-up, Trust recommends the use of their high capacity oil pan in conjunction with the High Flow Oil Pump. This pump is good for 12000rpm l/min at 800 RPM : 5.5 (4.4 stock) l/min at 2000 RPM : 19.7 (15.2 stock) l/min at 6000 RPM : 59.0 (46.7 stock) Trust Clear Timing Belt Cover $115 delivered. Dont have pics sorry. but brand new in box. parts are in brisbane.

wanger pics? Care to elaborate?

Pity people are all talk ay GTR_STI. If he "definitely" took them, then you'd "definitely" have them sold. Oh well, it might be my interpretation of the english language, but i thought "definitely" means "100% certain"..... but hey what does a yella fella like myself know?..... If all buyers were like this..... you're going to need A LOT OF luck mate! i hope you really "Definitely" sell them soon.

sorry, back onto brakes, do the rear hats have a drum machined in to the rear fro the handbrake?

Cheers Phil, thanks for the kind words. We are just as anxious to see your beast back on the road! Its been so long in the making! Good question, i cant answer that sorry as i really do not know. Does anyone else know? BB i am still considering about tapping the holes. Just because we are continuing with the thread doesnt mean its not getting done. As you can probably guess by now, the Actual status of the build is well beyond where we are up to in the thread. I dont want you to think I am ignoring good advice!

Gav, i think i will try to clarify a few things. Im not sure if you will agree with me but here goes. That picture i have posted is not of Daz's crank. I do apologise for the misinformation. For the Record, pics of Daz's crank can be seen here. As you can see it is the same as the one you have. Nor is the crank i have posted a 2.8L step 2 crank. After looking at it again, i originally thought it might have been an HKS RB24 crank for the RB20 engines. But after checking my photos i found out that the picture i have posted is actually an old school HKS 2.7L forged full counterweight crank. Like the crank i am using in my engine (the hks 2.6L step 3) it has been out of production for quite some time. I can remember seeing them a long time ago in the HKS catalogue and in japanese magazines. (conveniently i dont seem to be able to find any information on it now) This may be the reason why the person spoken to at HKS snubbed it as being one of their own. He or she may have only been familiar with products currently in production, and not with those that had been discontinued for such a long time. I cannot explain why the said crank has HKSA (HONG KONG STUDENT ASSOCIATION?) on it, nor can i explain what it means, but i am almost 100% certain that it IS an HKS product. This crank was on an auction many years back. It was a series of 3 photos. It was a new crank that was still in the box. I havent a clue as to why the oil galleries in the crank did not line up with the bearings. That really does seem strange. Sorry mate cant shed any light there. So gav, what happened in the end? 9krpm, I'm sure its a great computer, ive always been a fan of plug and play, it just saves so much stuffing around. But i think it would be safe to say that the features of the full blown standalone units are definitely more refined. Thanks Dirtgarage. that is very useful information!

Seriously though, Dirtgarage has put together some pretty tough engines. I really do value his comments and input. Thanks fall all the kind comments guys. To be honest guys i really dont mind everyone sharing your experiences here. It is a path, although i have not walked, i will need to at some stage. So this is ALL relevant to my build. Even though it is a debate within a thread, it really is good to hear first hand experiences with products you have actually used or is using. Computers and tuning is such a contraversial topic, i guess no different to "what is the proper way to run in a car" or "what is the best oil" This is why i like the motorsport section so much. We rarely get "i heard....." or "my mate told me...." , so any real information you have on the topic going at that moment during this thread please feel free to share!

Er....................................... this is good guys.... let it all out.... hahaha

DirtGarage, yeah i have heard good things about the Vipecs. I really cant comment too much on this kind of thing because i dont know enough about it. I like to stick with what works, and obviously your car does so i will definitely keep the vipec in mind when its time to choose.

Plenum time. I know hypertune make some of if not the best plenums for the RB26. It really is a Sexy bit of gear. But budget just did not allow for one. I was lucky to come across a nismo one at the right price. So i will settle for cast instead of CNC! The Nismo seems to be a nice unit. According to the graphs that nismo provide, there seem to be some real gains. M-speed use one on their car so i guess it cant be too bad. If i can get my car running half as good as the Mspeed car, i'll be a very happy chappy. Prior to this i had a Greddy plenum, but i noticed that it seemed to be more suited to drag applications or big single turbos. I want response so I sold it. I also had the opportunity to get a nismo plenum off a Group A car. but on closer inspection i decided against it because so little was known about it. Here are pics for camparison. This is the Nismo plenum which is commercially available. Underside This is the Nismo Group A plenum off the race cars. This is not commercially available. This is the underside. Notice the holes for the injectors. The commercial ones has these too but they are not drilled out. Just for reference the M-Speed car and their nismo plenum. it looks like they use the commercial one too. This is the M Speed plenum. It looks like the commercial one. Here is Daz taking notes........

Sounds good BB will definitely look into that. I definitely dont want to be drillin holes etc while its in the car. Cheers mate.

THIS THING IS A MONSTER! He keeps telling me "it goes alright".....Im having a hard time understanding what he means by that....... all i know is i only want my car to run "alright"..................that'll do me, stuff "perfect" or "good"

Stuart, i still havent decided yet what i would like to use. Well, i would "LIKE" to use Motec, but im not sure if the budget allows. Daz is running motec and says the motec does not require the setup like the DJetro power fc's. Actually, is that the case? What about for autronic, vipec etc? Are they setup like the DJetro layout? I think i'll tackle this when i get to it. For run in, i think i will be running standard injectors and the standard computer. Deano, yeah i put some old ones on (cleaned of course) as there were a lot of heavy tools hammers, spanners etc being waved over them all the time. BB I will definitely look into this. I most probably wont be running a power fc Djetro though. Ive heard these are more suited to WOT. Is this true? There is so much put into the engine i definitely cant skimp when it comes to management. I'm sure a lot of computers are much of a muchness, I guess at the end of the day, the computer is only as good as the person punching in the numbers. I bought the thermostat from Japan. I know what you mean by dodgy packaging though. A lot of Nismo packaging is dodgy. they are just normal boxes and stuff with Nismo stickers slapped on.

The Nissan parts have arrived! All the rubber hoses and new clamps, and a heap of other bits and pieces. Throttle bracket and water pipe. Old one was all rusty. Time to bolt on the intake side of engine. Daz sitting down on the job. New studs were put into the head before the intake manifold assembly went on. This was sealed with a metal gasket from the Tomei gasket kit. For the time being, because there was still so much work to do, the fresh painted cam covers were removed and replaced with old ones to avoid dings and scratches. The porting again. Water bypass connector goes on. All new O rings put in for balance tube. Once again, these are found in the gasket kit Nismo Low temp thermo. this one opens at 62degrees as opposed to 76.5degress. Water outlet elbow All new Nissan studs for throttle bodies The throttle bodies go on. Metal gaskets from Tomei gasket kit Metal gaskets for plenum.

Hey matt, how are those brakes!? re the hks gears, sav man and blitz have hit the nail on the head. I was totally aware of the infamous hks cam gears and their problems. I used to have a set before these too. The ones with the blue outer gears. i never had them in long enough for slippage luckily but when i removed them i noticed that the teeth had lost all the blue anodizing on them. i guess if you run them for long enough, the wearing could cause slippage. Like ben and nick have said they have changed the material for the outer gears and im sure hks have discontinued the old model and replaced it with this duralmin type for that very reason. I have heard many people talk about the chance of failure due to the 3 bolt design. unlike tome that have 4 or 5 locking points. i had my previous hks ones for 4 years and never had a problem. I guess if theyre done up properly ie tight, hopefully i'll never see any problems. Hmm, when i bought this pump i treated it like a bit of memorabilia too. i had no intentions to use it. but i then thought, if it came off a race car, surely there couldnt be that many miles on it. and i could always have it as an ornament after the end of its life (assuming theres still life in it) I still have an N1 pump so if this one fails, there is already something that can go straight on. I know that i shouldnt be using this CAS. I will probably get a new one soon. This is just to get the car going. Does anyone know if the bearings in the CAS are servicable? Matt do you mean the plugs in the block? yeah GREY 3bond would have been better. But the gasket kit included the orange type. in the end, we ran out and had to get a grey tube anyway! Cheers savman and Bitz for sharing your experiences with the hks cam gears.

Thanks for that Andrew. Really appreciate it.

cheers andrew. no rush. when you get a chance.

While the engine was getting built, some parts were getting ceramic coated at Competition Coatings. Some of the items sent over were. Sorry BLITZ (forum member) I borrowed this pic from you because I lost mine! Tomei dump pipe kit. HKS stainless manifolds with balance pipe. These are no longer in production. Needless to say ive had them for ages! The balance pipe is supposed to help with compressor surge. A pair of turbo exhaust housings.

Belt is on so covers can go on now too. Also crank timing pulley plate goes on too. Once again Craved Coatings did a really good job. Crank angle sensor bracket Timing belt cover Crank angle sensor. Bearing was a bit noisy in this one. Will probably have to get it changed at a later stage. On the other end of the engine Daz put on the rear oil seal retainer with new seal.

Time for timing gear to go on. The back plate first though. Goes on easiest with even pressure on the gear (hence the socket) and a smile. Brand new PITWORK Idler pulley and belt tensioner. Camshaft front oil seals need to go in. Timing cover back plate. Make sure the canister tubes have been cleaned also. Its Christmas again! HKS purple is so nice! Torque to spec. Make sure gears dont turn! More purple goodness. HKS timing belt Dazz lining up the timing marks

Water pump is next. I was going to use the N1 waterpump but i came across this pump in Japan. When it was sale, it was sold as an piece of memorabilia or something, as it was off an R32 Group A car. We are still uncertain if it is still fully operational, but it seems to turn and feels as if there is no play. For now we will put it on and see. The engravings on it were supposedly a selling point, but i dont know what they mean. This is the pump compared to the 24U N1 pump. The underside and fins. N1 pump on top. Goes on just like any other pump. Dazza workin his tube. Look at the hand control! Takes a lot of hand strength and coordination to to get it commin out like that! Long and even streams..... Bolts up just the same

Hahaha, cheers sic200, personalized shirts? hmmm.... you mean with DA ZOO MO embroidered on it? i'll keep that in mind. 33gtr.... i'll start worrying "WHEN" you get your car ready

Phew! Thanks for the heads up guys. You guys had me all worried! This is one reason why I dont build engines! i just checked with Daz, and he actually knew and remembers that night clearly (this was back in March) that he did torque it up with that long extension. But Dazz was right on the ball, not long after i left that night (which was quite late by the way), Dazza had realized this, reopened his shop and did them up properly with the shortest extension possible! Way to go buddy!

Now, onto oiling. As I said before, i would have loved to have gone the dry sump route. But budget just does not allow. Maybe further down the track. For an oil pump i decided to go with a pump from Reinik or now known as Reimax. Reimax have had a lot to do with N1 and Group A. So I assume the pumps they use on these cars would be fairly reliable. They are also the ones that built the rb-x engine for the 400R. I bought this pump quite some time ago. So it is still a REINIK. The new ones have REIMAX on the cover. The gears were removed and sent off to get cryoed. Hopefully this will add a little longevity. I FORGOT TO TAKE PICTURES OF THE GEARS! Brought out the Hylomar again to spray the water pump gasket. Dazza gets his fingers sticky Time to push on the pump Checking to see if the gasket is on properly Add bolts Torque to spec

Dirtgarage, can you please tell us why we shouldnt use a long extension to torque up the studs? Is it because longer extensions will twist more giving an inaccurate torque reading?