tigerleo62

I'm not sure, but I think the Attesa sytem will notice different traction from the fronts to the rears which could cause some issues... My understanding from what I have read throughout this part of the forum is that you want to use the same size wheels and tread front and rear - however perhaps having a slightly smaller diameter at the rear will make the car think that the rears are slipping slightly and throw a little more drive to the fronts - which you may want...

You want the same size wheel & tyres on the front and back AFAIK

Front (full stop should be degrees symbol) Partial Toe: L+0.09 R+0.09 Toe: +0.18 Set back: -0.39 Camber: L-0.39 R-0.35 Camber dif.: +0.04 Caster: L+5.49 R+5.20 Caster dif.: +0.28 King Pin: L+15.24 R+14.56 King Pin dif.: +0.28 Included angle: L+14.45 R+14.21 Rear Partial Toe: L+0.05 R+0.06 Toe: +0.11 Set back: -0.04 Camber: L-1.34 R -1.28 Camber dif.: +0.06 Thrust angle: +0.00

Stagea offset is around +33 - but that's all I know - I have 18x8s on my car

Hi guys - well I had caster rods replaced prior to xmas, but only found out yesterday that they were adjustable BUT the wheel alignment hadn't been done SO I had the caster rods adjusted today and the wheel alignment for all 4 wheels done at Wilkinson Supsension in Bayswater... All I can say is that if you haven't had this done to your Stag and you are concerned/complaining about light/sloppy steering then DO IT NOW! The difference to the weight and sureness of the steering is outstanding - the car now feels like a car rather than a mini-bus/kombi. It feels much more sure-footed and way more confident going around corners and more responsive in quick changes of direction etc For around $400 for parts, fitting and alignment, it is certainly money well spent. Highly, no not just highly, a MUST recommendation! (Thanks to SK for raising the caster arms in his Suspension thread!)

http://www.thule.com.au/dealers2.asp

Changing from the 225/16/R50 tyres to 235/40/R18 made a big difference in the handling of the car for me - I will have the anti-sway bars changed in a week or so. The car felt VERY soft and floating when I first got it and i am not convinced the shocks don't need upgrading, however after a couple of weeks of driving the car i am getting used to the soft ride... I don't find the car noisy at all - my previous car was much noisier from tyre/road noise, so I find the Stagea very pleasent to drive. For the fist couple of weeks I didn't have much audio in the car to talk of so I did a lot of driving with the windows down and no stereo going and found the car quite quiet... I don't feel like I am driving a wagon that much - well not in a straight line any way . Going around corners is a bit freaky with the standard sway bars though... Compared to a Magna station wagon the Stagea is an outright sports car IMHO. Even though the Stagea is a largish car I don't feel as if I am driving a large car (except when going around corners and carrying a load in the back ) As for the turbo - this is the first turbo I have owned, so I can't compare it to much at all. However the car doesn't give you that intitial feeling of gut wrenching power when you press the metal - the car seems to run fairly effortlessly and smoothly through the changes. I find the car plenty powerful and swift enough - but depends what you want - I prefer a car that is smooth and fairly quiet and can live without wheel spin and other outward signs of 'bruteness'. Overall with some relatively minor changes in the ride the car is much improved so I wouldn't be too put off by the spongey ride the 'stock' car gives - afterall in the wagon category and in the price range there really is very little choice, probably no real choice at all.

I've been in countries where they warn you that you are approaching a camera rather than telling you that you have just passed a speed camera like they do here... Would our Government do that? Very doubtful IMHO...

Thanks Driftt!

Mine came with the blind and cargo net thingy

Yeah the brakes - not the most awe inspiring are they? Press the pedal then a momentary pause as you feel the full weight of the car running on behind you, then the brakes seem to kick in... 'spongy' comes to mind... Enhanced Nissan brake mod details would be good and well worth it IMHO. Once you get the ride sorted out, it would be well worth the cost to feel as if it is all going to stop without hesitation when you really need it...

In Perth they start around $19+K, but from what I have read they are about 5k more in Sydney and way cheaper in NZ... I was reading some earlier threads in this forum this arvo and manuals are about 6-8K(?) more than an auto and the general vibe seems to be that it is perhaps cheaper to convert an auto to manual in Aus rather than purchase a manual in Japan... I think that is the gist - but do some searching on 'manual' or such - I have only been on this forum for a week, but if you read some of the earlier threads (turn the forum option off that only lists recent threads) you will gleen a fair bit of info on what people are trying out on their stags...

Hi all - I have had 235/40/18's put on my car today, so I now have 4 x 225/45/16 Nissan wheels left over with pretty much brand new tread having done about 300kms... cheap rubber for the compiance I suspect, but any how, any ideas as to how much a set of stock nissan wheels are worth? Cheers

GTR intercooler spotted on ebay in Sydney: java script:ol('http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem%26amp;item%3d4510531756%26amp;ssPageName%3dADME:B:RECO:AU:2');

Hey Brad - do all the RB26 engines come with a Nokia installed, is this an optional extra? :jk:

Thanks StafT - that's where I have placed my first aid kit and sundries! But, cool, if that's where the stacker fits and it's out of sight, then good.

Thanks Ice - I am getting some 235/40/18 fitted on Friday at C-Red tuning (bottom right corner of this link AVS Model 5's: http://www.c-red.com.au/parts/wheels.shtml ) They will also do the sway bars and stuff to tighten up the steering as well. Will look at struts and springs after that if necessary. Thanks for the info

Hi all - anyone have any ideas where a CD stacker could be installed in the stag? Doesn't look like there is enough room under the front seats and sticking it under the passenger side glove box would severely restrict leg room... Any ideas, thoughts, suggestions, solutions??? BTW when I looked under the front seats I noticed that both driver and passenger have wires attached - would this imply the seats are heated? Cheers

Thanks Happymeal - gee you Kiwi's are always so hospitable! I replaced the fuse with a 10amp the other day, but didn't do anything (that I know of), so the cig lighter may well not be connected - it looks absolutely brand new so I am pretty certain it was replaced at compliance. Anyway, I will check it out when I get to replace the stereo (as well as the power switch globe). I have read up on this forum about removing the centre consoles - such as removing the centre glovebox thing and the hazard light so that you can push out the console and vents from behind to access screws etc. - sounds much better than trying to pry things off with a screw driver. I found out yesterday that the cassette player works even though the CD and radio doesn't. However the only cassette tape I have is the sound track from an Indian musical, so if you are in Perth and are sitting next to a stagea with Indian music coming out, then that is me! :headspin: But first I need to firm up the ride of the car - I can't get used to how it bounces along - kind of a novelty in some ways, but I would prefer to just drive the car and not worry about 'floating' over the road! Fuel consumption is a bit of a worry - don't think I have ever used half a tank of fuel in one afternoon of driving around town before! :thumbdwn: But the engine is so smooth and the turbo kicks in before I know it at times, so I guess with more experience in the car I will be able to drive more economically. I had read somewhere before that the smoothest engines, i.e., with less vibration are straight 6s and the optimum size is 2.5 litres. Now I know what they mean! :wassup: Anyway, cheers

The ride doesn't feel too harsh? I was thinking of going with 225/40R18, but was worried about feeling every bump on the road and tyre noise... What makes you want to go wider? Cheers

Very clean! How much have you lowered it?

That's interesting - that's a fair difference in profile I would have thought - about 12mm by my calculation... W235 Ra50 R16 H118 D641.4 %101.50 kmh60.90 kmh101.50 perhaps I need to be aiming at a lower profile than I thought... Cheers

Hi, I was wondering what size tyre/wheel combination you guys have employed for your Stagea and how it affected the ride/handling (if any) when using stock springs and struts (if applicable). I was calculating the change in relative speed to the speedo when choosing different tyre/wheel combinations and came up with the following chart: W = tyre width in mm Ra = tyre wall height to width ratio R = wheel diameter in inches H = tyre wall height based on Ra D = approximate tyre diameter in mm % = percentage of tyre diameter compared to stock (in orange) 60 = real speed when speedo reads 60 kmh 100 = real speed when speedo reads 100 kmh W Ra R H D % 60 100 [COLOR=DarkOrange]205 55 16 113 631.9 100 60 100[/COLOR] 225 50 16 113 631.4 99.92 59.95 99.92 205 40 17 82 595.8 94.29 56.57 94.29 215 40 17 86 603.8 95.55 57.33 95.55 225 45 17 101 634.3 100.38 60.23 100.38 235 45 17 106 643.3 101.80 61.08 101.80 225 45 18 101 659.7 104.40 62.64 104.40 225 40 18 90 637.2 100.84 60.50 100.84 225 35 18 79 614.7 97.28 58.37 97.28 235 40 18 94 645.2 102.10 61.26 102.10 245 40 18 98 653.2 103.37 62.02 103.37 255 35 18 89 635.7 100.60 60.36 100.60 265 35 18 93 642.7 101.71 61.03 101.71 235 35 19 82 647.1 102.41 61.44 102.41 255 40 19 102 686.6 108.66 65.19 108.66 Anyhow, made me curious as to what tyre/wheel combinations peoples were choosing, and what your thoughts are about the combination(s) you have chosen. Cheers

Great stuff, thanks SK! Yeah, went for a drive this arvo and the understeer and roll was quite unsettling compared to my last car and took a lot of the enjoyment out of the drive - but a wagon isn't going to handle like a 2 dr coupe... I had read a few articles that said fitting sway bars was probably the cheapest/biggest bang for buck suspension upgrade, but some one like me with no background in cars/mechanics wouldn't know where to start... Thanks to your article I now have a point of reference - I look forward to other articles by you - even though you "don't know everything" Cheers

Hi Bad - yeah from Albert at auto wholesale - it was the blue one with twin sunroof - very clean interior, but a few k's on the clock... I'm past driving manuals as a daily driver now, but still fantasize about a softtop manual - auto wholesale has an immaculate series 1 MX5 for $16k - looked very very very tempting, but totally impractical as a utalitarian ride - wouldn't be able to take my cats to the vet in that one! The big task now is determine what to replace the audio with - whether to go for a 2 DIN all in one unit or two seperate DIN units such as a DVD screen and a DVD/CD/AM/FM tuner/amp thingo - ebay has some interesting cheap stuff - time to go to the local stores and see how much the real audio products cost...