Viper_r32

I'll be ordering my replacement engine soon, and i just figured i was better off to get the gearbox at the same time! although i would be interested to know if the rb25 gearbox has sincro in 1st as the rb20 gearbox doesn't and it really ticks me off sometimes.

hey, due to all my turbo probs lately I've decided that I'm going to swap out my engine. I'm just going to replace it with a second hand one for the moment and slowly rebuild my current engine with much stronger gear. thinking an RB26 crank and con rods forged pistons bigger cams etc. i know i could just drop a 26 in but its more about the experience of building something up. i know it would cost around the same if not more in the long run but after allot of though it's what i want to do. my only question is the gear box. i'm interested if an RB26 gearbox can bolt to an RB20 engine. as i want a box that could handle a bit more punishment. Plus something with a different gear ratio to the standard RB20 box. any one know if one will bolt up or not?

all i know is that the parts are supposedly provided buy Trust/GReady

hear are some dyno graphs to show what i went from with the stock turbo to once i had it hi flowed. the new graph was running 16psi

It was something I thought about at first, but to be honest it was never about wanting to get more power. I wanted more response. And I feared going to a bigger turbo because I didn't want to loose power at low rpm. After I had the turbo hiflowed the first time cef11e drove the car he got jealous because my turbo came on boost allot earlier and produced almost as much power as his rb25 high flow. I remember his exact words when he said the main difference between my turbo and his was he had more rear wheel spin. I love the response and power the my turbo has and in that respect I’m happy with it, and the funny thing is that I’ve never run any more than 16psi into it, and it’s supposed to be able to handle 25-30psi according to the turbo company. Only prob is my engine wouldn’t last long. But after all this muck around I have been considering doing a complete engine re-build. Trojan gave me a ruff quote of between 5-6 grand, so I may go a head with doing that early next year. Now that I finally have a full time job I should be able to afford it. And don’t tell me that I should swap it for an RB25. Yes I know It produces more power more torque yada yada yada, I just love the feel of the RB20. I would only consider possibly swapping it for an RB26, but trying to find one in like new condition would be difficult.

they are supposedly Trust Parts what about oil pressure? what should it be hot and cold? and if the pump was faulty would the oil get dirtier quicker? (just trying to explore all possibility's)

this time i think only the bearings have disinergrated!

by the looks of the photos the bearings disintegrated and the impella jammed. but theres no way to know for sure, the turbo company is very vague in the report. all they say is that id died due to oil contamination.

cool thanks, i thoughts thats what you ment. its ball bearing.

did a web search and i know what the restrictor is now. yes it has one on the oil inlet line!

sorry but i'm not shre what you mean by plane bearing? and integra never mentioned anything about a flow restrictor! what is it for?

all right on a side note i wanted to ask a couple of questions, I'm thinking worse case scenario here so just bear with me. O.k. say for arguments sake that the reason my turbo keeps dieing is due to the oil pump. due low oil pressure the bottom end of my engine is worn and the bearing surfaces of the turbo are being scored due to lack of oil.. (just a theory) First question, what would be the signs if this were the case? if low oil pressure was the case what would be the signs? second question, how much would it cost for a complete bottom end rebuild, with top quality parts as far as i know you can get a N1 oil pump for around $500-$600 dose this sound right? third question, oil pressure what is supposed to be the oil pressure for an rb20 is it like 4 psi when the engines cold and 2 psi when its hot? and if any one has any other info that could be useful

yeah i owned the car for about 2 and a half years before i had the turbo high flowed. and the car has done about 40 thousand k's since i bought it in total. the first time the turbo lasted 9000 km OK, but it did always make a whistling sound. that the stock turbo didn't make. i always just assumed that because it was a ball bearing turbo it would sound different from the stock. the second time it didn't make that sound, but then it made the sound just before it died. as for the oil contamination, they are not specific in the report at all. only the pics show images of metal shavings in the turbo, but they are obviously just from the ball bearings when they got shaved.

hey guy's I'm just looking for a bit of advice concerning my current turbo problem as some of you know earlier this year i got my stock turbo high flowed by a well known turbo company. at first the turbo was fine, although i did not drive the car that often, when the car went in i had an oil change with motul full synthetic oil and within 9 thousand k's it had another 2 oil changes (so changed every three thousand) the turbo died and was sent back to the turbo company with them notifying me that the turbo failed due to oil contamination. this sounded fishy due to the fact that i always keep the oil clean and even though the engine has done so many k's it still has full compression. i was told that they would not cover it under warranty but would give me special consideration and only charge me for the price of the parts to rebuild it. even though this was allot cheaper once you ad the cost of the mechanic pulling the turbo of and putting it back on again it was still a heap of cash i couldn't afford. after scraping some cash together the turbo came back rebuilt with documentation showing pictures of what had happened to my turbo. the funny thing (that i did not pic up on at the time) was that the date on the pictures was stamped some month in 2004. before bolting the turbo on my mechanic flushed all the oil lines and informed me that the oil in the lines was still clean and there was no sign of gunk metal or contamination. fresh oil was put in and the new turbo was bolted on. to be on the safe side we disabled the boost controller and ran the turbo on stock boost to ware it in. i didn't drive the car much at all in fact within 3 weeks i only drove the car 100ks. not once did i even rev the engine past 4000k. but 2 weeks ago the turbo died again. i contacted CEFF11E to ask his advice and he suggested i test my oil pump to make sure it was flowing enough oil. i tested the oil pump and it was flowing perfectly so there are no issues there. my mechanic is pretty busy at the moment and i have to wait a bit before the car can go back in to have the turbo fixed again, but i was curious if any one would have any ideas on why I'm having this problem. could it be poor manufacturing, cheep ball bearings. or something else? any one have any ideas!

thanks guy's

hey guy's i was wondering if somone could IM me CEF11E phone number, i had it before but i cant seem to find it and i need to get in contact with him asap.

sorry i've been away for a while working on a feature film being filmed in goulbourne. now that you metion it one thing i found realy fishy is the photos taken of my turbo have a date stamp of early 2004.

sweet, I've been eager for a day when i could tear it up around bathurst, time to start saving.

as far as i know around 2 to 2 and half minuets for the stock turbo should be fine, as it is not ball bearing

spotted i white r33 with blue vinyals across the sides, just outside of Dickson around 11am. loved the kit.

yippee, my ride is finally back on the road!. i went and picked her up yesterday from integra and anthony showed me the official report from GCG with photos and all. I'll post some pics up later when i get a chace to scan them. but after looking at the pics and discussing with anthony how this could have happened we came to the conclusion that i haven't had my turbo timer set for long enough. i was an aware that ball bearing turbos require longer to cool down than leaf turbos and 2 mins of turbo timer is just not enough after a hard drive. so after all that it turned out it was my fault for the turbo dieing, apparently i should be letting the turbo run down for at leaset 5 min, i only wish they could have at least given me that info when i had it high flowed in the first place. you would think it would be critical information that a customer should be given. but any way she's back on the road and I'm slowly working the turbo in on stock boost for a while. and very happy to finally have my car back

the problem these days is the thiefs are getting so dam good at breaking in, when my stereo gear was stolen, there were no sines of forced entry eather

they aren't very affective at all, but i use one anyway on top of my security system as it just another deterrent to help warn off your average joe who walks by

thanks man! and your right i will never sell her no mater what. even if i bought an r34gtr with all the trimmings i would still keep Vennesa. although i have though about buying another r32 as well and doing a rb26 conversion, but i couldn't do that to Vennesa. it has allot to do with the how i feel about a cars character and personality. with a different engine Venessa would be a different car to drive. and i love her the way she is

well i loved my high flow, up until the point it craped itself. and i've loved it and for one good reason, RESPONSE and CEF11E can back me up on that one!