Chi-Town

This is kind of what I was thinking but the temp sender wire and the two pressure switch wires run through the starter subharnes and I eliminated the two pressure switch wires completely. @GTSBoy I have a can gauge with unusually bright warnings should the oil pressure fall so the factory light isn't needed. I need to dig out my wiring diagram and see if I can sort this out.

The original pressure sender (switch) had the standard connector and the temp sender had the single terminal connector also. The pressure switch is gone and those wires eliminated from the harness. I left the temp wire as I too used the temp sender to plug the extra hole. I was hoping for an easy answer but I guess I'm going to need to trace some wires to see where my ghost oil pressure light voltage is coming from or maybe I'll just pull the bulb out as there's no pressure switch any longer.

I'll sit down and get a post together 😁

The factory oil pressure sender is no longer in the car that's what is confusing me. In the Taarks adapter I have an aftermarket Bosch style pressure/temp sender and the factory temp sender only. Oil pressure is perfect. Where does the factory oil temp sender go to if there were never any gauges? Why was it there from the factory?

So like the title says my 97 rs4v has a oil temp sensor but no triple gauges as it was originally factory navigation. My current setup is not using the factory oil pressure sensor as I'm running a link ecu and a real sensor. I did leave the oil temp sensor in. So now as I was working on first start up and bleeding coolant I get the oil light on the dash faintly as the oil temp gets to about 60-70c. Oil pressure is 45psi at idle at the same time. I'm wondering if the temp sender doing this?

Well it runs again! This was a definite case of while I have it apart lol Everything except the body and interior has been restored, refinished, or replaced. @socal_stagea is my IG if you're bored and want to see all the pics.

Block is complete. HKS 2.8 step 2 with the BCD pistons. Next is the head. Step 2 V-cam with the full Monty 😂

@Kip It is nice seeing the finish line in sight finally. Unfortunately when I imported it the 99' 5mt RS4S cars weren't legal here and a 260RS was out of my price range. Honesty the 5mt swap wasn't hard itself, it was just sourcing all the parts. @epstein Duncan is the one that actually gave me the info on the R34 console. I used a GRID digital G-sensor and mounted it on the underside of the factory g-sensor bracket and it cleared the pocket in the center console.

Haven't updated this is a while. -5 speed conversion is done. Then center console, parking brake handle, and mounting bracket can be adapted from a R34 since the S2 parts are all disco. Console is a slightly different grain pattern and color but works fine. R33/ R34 GTS (no booster) clutch pedal works as well as the matching master cylinder. Wiring is simple, jump the starter connector at the fuse box, note which wires are connected at which position on the auto neutral safety switch and cut off the switch harness and connect to the corresponding switch on the 5 speed. -Rear R34 rear subframe swap is completed. Full Nismo arm set, 2-way LSD set up soft, 322mm Brembo brakes, Ohlins Flag-R coil overs (need to drop the spring rate 1Kg) -RB swap is under way. HKS Step 2 High Response 2.8 BCD stroker kit / Step 2 V-Cam / GTIII 4R Kit I may not use the 4R kit but not sure yet as I've seen some pretty decent dyno sheets on it and it doesn't spool as slow as people think when you have v-cam. I have the wiring manual for the car and a spare 260RS harness so the wiring shouldn't be that bad but I just haven't had the time to invest in it. If anyone has a suggestion for someone who can handle it let me know! I have a bunch of spare 5mt swap parts and some Nismo 580 turbos if anyone needs/wants them hit me up. Located in California but willing to ship. As always, thanks to all the members who have answered my questions and helped this project keep moving!

Ok these are the connectors I'm stuck on. The one is near the ECU and the other are behind the air box. Anyone pin these out before? Thanks!

I said in the post that it wasn't financially reasonable for most people but there are those people with deep pockets (not me!🤣)

Thank you sir!

Let's do the math. QRT-C seat 6.4kg Side mount 1.45kg Recaro fixed base 2.26kg 10.11kg total My stock power driver's seat that I weighed today 17.8kg I was simply trying to show there is a decent amount of weight to be shed if you have the cash and time. The weight will vary depending on the components you use as would be expected. Take it as you will.

@Duncan thanks for the reply. That was my original plan, use the 260RS engine harness (I have all 3 pieces) and sort out the interior plugs. What I ran into that worried me was the 2 plugs behind the LH headlight that aren't on the 260RS harness. They have some heavy gauge wire in them. I noticed the R33 GTR harness has them though? Do you have a copy of the 33 manual in English? I have the front end/ fuse box harness from the 260 also if I need to go that far.

Calm down, they were all rough numbers, but just showing possibilities of where to take out a good amount of weight. Here are some actual examples. If you take it both 15-20kg front seats and replaced them with fixed position 6-8kg ultra light carbon Recaro QRT-C A 4kg LiPo battery vs a 18-20kg lead acid Pretty sure I can cut 10kg off the front and rear beam RS4 beams combined. A Volk CE28N (or lighter) with a lighter tire vs the heavy stock wheels and tires, pretty sure between a set of 4 you'll save 2-4kg each. That's rotational mass so even better. 4 Stock rotors vs Project Mu SCR-Pro 2 piece front and rear, pretty sure they save close to if not more than 1kg each, so all together roughly 5-7kg. And again that's rotational mass so even better. HICAS rack weight I guessed on, but still heavier than a Midori Seibi or Cusco HICAS delete. Aluminum or chromoly links will weigh less than the factory stamped steel links and cast front lower arms. Depending on brand, bushing type, and other variables I figured between 8 arms and links you could squeak out 5kg but possibly a tad optimistic. Factory prop shaft 13.7kg vs carbon shaft 6kg (sorry, not quite my estimated numbers) Stock suspension roughly 7kg per corner vs my Flag-L at 5kg, so 8kg for the set of 4. Billet RB block is quoted as 46kg vs stock at 70kg. 34kg savings. Sorry a bit optimistic on this one also but cut down the crank counter weights and run some Ti rods and you'll lose the other 4kg 😄 I forgot these: Full Titanium exhaust vs stock steel piping Titanium or aluminum IC piping vs stock. 300M CV shafts (gun drilled of course) Ceramic CV balls Take out the floor mats Go on a diet Now I'm not saying any of this is budget friendly (or even close) but it's all possible without driving around in an stripped bare empty tin can.

Sorry about the repost but I figured this title was more accurate. I've searched a bunch but haven't found the info I'm looking for so I'm starting this thread. Is there a post or diagram showing the wiring changes needed to put a RB26 in a S1 RS4 Stagea? (please provide link or file) Is there a post or diagram showing how to use a factory S1 260RS engine harness in an S1 RS4 Stagea? (please provide link or file) Does someone make an ECU adapter harness so go from S1 RB25DET to RB26DET? Information I can share so far: Factory 260RS harness is similar to the RSV harness but is missing the Black and White connectors behind the LH headlight and the wiring is different at the connectors near the ECU. RSV harness lacks the wiring / connections for the following: Second O2 sensor Second MAF wiring Intake decel valve Any help is always appreciated!

Plenty of ways to cut weight in a C34 depending on how deep your pockets are. Swap the front seats out with ultra light carbon buckets = ~ 20-30kg (depending on seats chosen) Swap out the full size battery for a LiPo4 unit = ~20-30kg (depending on battery chosen) Cut down the front and rear crash beams = ~ 10kg (roughly) Light weight wheels and tires = ~10-20kg (depending on wheel and tire chosen) 2 piece front and rear rotors = ~ 5-7kg Remove HICAS = ~ 5kg Lightweight suspension links =~5kg Carbon prop shaft = ~10-15kg Light weight coil overs =~5-10kg Billet engine block =`40kg 😅 Considering the car is just slightly heavier that a R33 GT-R but has a better weight distribution I would concentrate on the quality of the handling and adding a bit more power.

So I have my stock 97' S1 RB25DET/auto harness and a 97' 260RS engine harness and ECU. I've noticed a few differences in them where they connect to the car itself. Has anyone used a 260RS harness to do the swap? If so any tips you can share? Thanks!

Well it's been a minute since my last update. Car finally arrived 3 months late. It was a grade 4/B in the USS Tokyo auction but it's more like a 3.5/B. There is overspray and and few panels you can tell have been painted but not a spot of rust anywhere which is nice. Working through the usual issues, bonnet and liftgate struts, and a few maintenance items. I installed the front Ohlins, the BBS wheels and Nismo smoked side markers along with a set of Freeway Dolphin smoked LED front indicators to get a bit of a better look to it. I can't install the rears until I get rear subframe installed with the alloy rear uprights. The RB26 sits on the stand stripped down waiting for parts and the 5mt conversion will start shortly. I have a complete engine bay harness and engine harness from a 260RS, anyone know if it will be a PnP with the rest of the car harnesses?

You can get the harnesses on Yahoo Auction Japan for super cheap. Search WGNC34

Little bit of an update as the summer heat really slows things down here in SoCal. Picked up a bunch of Ohlins coil overs from Japan. One set of R33 GT-R single adjustable PCV (?), One set of R33 GT-R double adjustable (DFV?), and set of C34 Stagea rears. For the record the C34 rears are about an inch (~25mm) longer than the R33 rears but it seems to be all body length, stroke looks the same. The top mounts are different also. Got the R34 rear subframe back, waiting on the Nismo bits to arrive to complete that project. I've amassed a pile of 26RS clusters at this point but still looking for a Dolphin speedometer if anyone has it laying around? Also looking for the 260RS Tunnel Brace if you have one sitting on a shelf? other than that just playing with the wife's Cappuccino till more parts arrive.

I was thinking the auto ECU sees drive/reverse, the neutral/park is only for the starter circuit correct?

I'm curious to see what you find on this. I had this same thing happen in a S13 that I had converted to manual years ago. I replaced the IACV but never got it to behave properly. I always wondered if the ECU is looking for an "in gear" signal opposed to just being in neutral all the time (signal wise). In the Suby ECUs it would not use the correct mapping until it saw it was in gear. It still ran/drove fine but was never quite 100%.

@S1_C34 Yeah I'm seeing a lot of talk on social media about the 260RS's and the prices are already going up in Japan. My Stagea is a KR4 97' RS-Four V and unfortunately it's stuck in Japan till the end of November as it's a 12/97 production. Be careful on YAJ with the tails as I've seen a lot of broken mounting studs on some of them. Call Colton up at Boost factory right across the border from you he's been parting out a lot of S2's and has reasonable prices. I just got a bunch of stuff from him. Update on my progress: Picked up an R34 rear subframe/suspension assembly with diff (anyone need a V-Spec diff?) and axles for cheap. Stripped it down for new bushings and a bit of powder coating. Going to have the uprights vapor blasted. Getting ready to order the Nismo suite of links and bushings. I refuse to run spherical ends on street cars (wear/noise) and poly is just a bit to much NVH for an old man like me. I'm still up in the air on brakes. I know I can run the Z33 Brembo on the front by opening up the bolt hole and use the matching discs. Will the Z33 rears bolt to my R34 uprights or will I need an adapter? Picked up a new R33 GT-R 5 speed (only a few $ more than used are going for) and used transfer case finally. Need to decide on a clutch soon. The collecting (hoarding) continues!