OO Dan OO

Is it possible to make R33 hinge work on a 32?

**fixed** dirty fuel filter after all that

I gapped my plugs to .7, I did find some significant boost leaks. Which are now fixed but... no change from my initial problem. I did find a black mark that could possibly be rogue spark on one coil pack shaft, along with my fuel pumps (2x044) sounding a bit strange. So to recap -new TPS -new plugs .7 - boost leaks fixed

Ok so here is where I am at. i have checked IC connections and boost lines. changed spark plugs changed TPS after changing the plugs it seems to idle better when cold but I still have the same issue. I is really hard to get even to 5 grand it's just holding back big time? What fuel pressure should I be looking for?

I was just looking at the ford ones because a very reputable tuner said they are really efficient for high boost applications. That was for a JZ though. My next move is to swap the plugs n check the coils out.

I have checked all my hoses and all seem ok. Next I want to look at plugs. I have heard FG Barra plugs are good but not sure if they will fit the RB. Also can anyone ID these Coils?

The fuel was E85 the only thing that made me wonder if it is a fuel issue was the sound from the fuel pumps. I have had 2 tanks of fuel since. Think 16pounds is normal. Tbh I never even took notice of the boost previously. The engine seems to be really well built judging by the quality of the install and the parts. I will make sure all connections between pipes are tight, I may also chuck a new set of plugs and see if that helps. My idle has always been a bit over the place. when cold the idle fluctuates a lot when warm sometimes I will sit at lights at 1000 sometimes it will be 1100 and like yesterday it was a steady 1500. Maybe wherever the leak is is progressively getting bigger

When I get a chance I will suss out where everything is connected. the weird thing is it seemed to start when I put E85 from a different servo than my usual United. My fuel pumps were making a strange high pitch noise for a bit. Not sure if it is coincidence. btw you seem to reply to every single post in this forum. Are you the administrator?

My RB25 is lately struggling to get to 5k rpm it feels like it's not boosting. It gets to about 4.5-5k then splutters. It is usually 580hp and would usually scream instantly to 7k rpm in seconds. I have also noticed it is idling really high. Like 1500 rpm which makes me think maybe a vac hose has come off or something. The microtech dash is reading boost but I am not feeling it. If idle is high, would that suggest vac is leaking somewhere after the throttle body? IMG_5140.mov

It is a little bolt that I am talking about. Definitely not a stud. It doesn't have power just not earthed

I noticed there is no earth wire bolted to the back of the alternator. I clipped my test light on this bolt and tested a live wire to see if it is grounded and I got sparks. Does this mean my alternator is possibly just not grounding enough?

Ok, I have pulled the cluster out. The bulb is fine. There is power at both sides of the globe. does this mean the Alternator is not earthing the wire when the ignition is on but car not running? does this tell you anything?

Hey mate, I think the problem is actually the alternator light. I don't Chet the charge light coming on at all. Here is where it is currently plugged in to. Perils of picking up someone else's project. In the pic the circled bit is where the light wire is going. It is a white/red wire on the other side

I do have a spare, might just chuck that in and hopefully be done with it

I took my Skyza out to a wet pan event and whilst waiting my turn my car just died. I Jumped it and my voltage was just over 12. Keeping the revs up I was able to keep the car running. But voltage was still quite low. Then all of a sudden 13.8 for a bit then back down. It kept going up and down my whole trip home. does this sound like a dodgy Alternator?

Which ones?

It was the f**king fog light switch. Like you said. Cheering having this mystery over.

Do you think it could have something to do with the high beam dash light? I think I may have removed it cos my beams don't work anyway

Turns out the acc do turn off but it was the dash and tail lights that won't turn off. I unplugged the headlight switch and they still stay on. At least I have ruled the switch out. For now I am powering the tail lights from a different fuse which turns off when the key is off. But it's a really hacky way to not have to disconnect the battery every time I get out of the car.

It wasn't the barrel it was always the tail lights, I thought it was acc cos the usb charger was staying on but turns out it was the same circuit as the tail lights

I have an R23 gtst, my issue is the tail and dash lights stay on all the time unless I pull the "tail light fuse". I have disconnected the headlight switch ruling that out. IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE I CAN TEST? for the meantime, I am piggy backing ignition power to the top of the tail light fuse which works but my tail lights will just be on whenever the car is on.

I have pulled every relay in the car out and acc still stays on. I even pulled them leaving all of them out and still acc is on. thos is some kind of supernatural shit

I unplugged the ignition wiring from the harness and I still have acc on. Which relay should I check?

I pulled all the relays out from under the dash. And accessories where still on. I happened when I was re-fitting the cluster surround. I still had my keys in the ignition and had to kind of force them out. do you know what relay in particular? Pulling it out should turn everything off right?

Just recently my accessories is staying on once my key has been removed. is there anything I can test or a work-around to put acc on a seperate switch instead?