Kip

Based on the dyno results, the car already has some modifications (~269 kw at the crank). I need to find out to what extent, but assume some sort of ECU adjustment has been made previously. I'll have to check that out too. I will be changing out some of the exhaust (still running the cats, but blew out the fiberglass packing on the dyno), so I'm leaning towards a Haltech PnP approach. That's all dependent on what I find though.

Sorry. Typo. It's a 225/50r17. @joshuaho96 called it right. My bad.

Late to the party on this one, but responding anyway. Fellow 'murican here. I bought mine through RHD Specialties in Washington state. They specialize in JDM importing. They find good cars, bring them in, federalize them, and register them. For me, it was a matter of just taking all the Washington state paperwork and sale bill to the local BMV and registering it. Well, I needed a VIN check by the police, but that was it. I highly recommend RHD Specialties. Easy to work with. Enthusiasts. Good guys.

That's a good piece of info. I'll have some time this weekend to check it out. Don't even have to put it on a lift! 👍

I'm quoting the speed from the dyno. It's what's printed on the readout. My winter tires are 245/45r17. Stock size is 255/50r17. An online calculator tells me my tires are 5mm shorter than stock and requires 3 more revolutions per KM. I think your point is valid. The same calculator confirms that it introduces some error to the speedo. When my speedo reads 150kph, I'm actually doing 148.9kph. It doesn't make up the whole difference, but accounts for some of it. Speedometers can be impacted by so many different tire variables: amount of wear, tire pressure, size, etc. On most every car/van/truck I've owned, I have found that speedos read 2-3 mph (4.4 - 6.6 kph) higher than actual speed. Now knowing that the speed limiter is reading off the cluster, I have no doubt the clusters inaccuracy comes into play here. To @GTSBoy's point, It doesn't account for all of the "missing" 18 kph.

I'll ping the shop. See if they recall. It was only a couple hours ago, so the odds should be pretty good. If not, they took video of the runs for their website (Stagea's are rare in the States). If it's not edited too much, maybe it will give some indication of the gear they used. -Kip

Maybe. I haven't had a chance to dig into the engine bay. It didn't come with a mod sheet, so I need to go on a fact finding mission.

Based on the in dash meter, around 0.8 bar. Stock is 10 psi on this motor, yes? If so, I'm pretty much running stock boost. -Kip

180 kph limiter? Thanks. I didn't know that. 180kph would be about where it topped out (topped at 162 kph). How does one get around the limiter? Some sort of EFI or is there a mechanical solution? -Kip

The shop owner ran it, so I don't know what gear he ran it in. That said, I've used this shop before to test a modified 911 that was supposed to put out 475 hp at the crank. He was able to confirm that. Interesting thought on wheel spin. Given the time of year, I ran the pulls with my winter tires on the car (stock size, Blizzaks). I asked before we started if that would be a problem and I was told it wouldn't. There was a high pitched squeal when the car was at full tilt. Maybe that's what I was hearing. -Kip

I put my Stagea 260RS on a dyno today (Results in the Stagea Forum). Not a bad result. It gives me a baseline. Getting some pulsing when it makes power. The guy running the dyno thinks it could be plugs, wastegates, or cats. Going to start with the easy one and change out the plugs. Regardless, an interesting thing popped up on the two pulls. Speed topped out at 101 mph (163 kph). That seems low for the power it's producing. Is there a speed governor/limiter on this car? Did Nissan find some way to cap top speed on this car or engine? -Kip

I put my new-to-me Stagea on a dyno today. I don't know the history of this car, so I thought I'd get a baseline. You know, figure out my starting point before I change a couple things up. I thought some of you may be interested, so I've attached an image of the 2nd dyno run. Results are decent: 252.54 ft-lbs (342 nm) and 292.78 hp (218 kw) peak at the wheels and 311.29 ft-lbs (422 nm) and 359.38 hp (268 kw) peak at the crank. The car has a cat back exhaust and mushroom filters on it, but the rest is unknown. Since it's supposed to have around 280 hp stock, I'm guessing something else has been done to the car. No way a cat back and air filters gave me 80-ish hp. Time to do some poking around and figure it out. -Kip

Sounds very similar. I changed out the terminals to SAE, but am using the stock wiring, stock tie down, and even the stock positive terminal cover. I would have preferred to leave the JIS terminals, but I would have had to order it and wait. Meanwhile, the car was blocking the girlfriend's car in our tandem garage. -Kip

Alternatively, buy a handful of hockey pucks (used ones on eBay can be cheap). I've used them for years. For the pinch welds, you can cut a channel in them like in the pic from ChrisW434. For the diff or other jack points, you can use one without cuts to disperse the load across the saddle. Lots of good info in this thread, btw.

Completed the first mod on my new-to-me Stagea. We had a cold snap here. Overnight temps dipped down to somewhere around -6C. Despite the car being in the garage, my 18-month old battery didn't make it through the cold. Was sitting at 11.9v without a load, but dropped to something between 2-3v when the starter was engaged. Swapped the old AC Delco out for an Optima Yellow Top Prius battery. Had to change the battery connectors to SAE though. Luckily, I was able to find a couple kits that made for a very stock looking change. Arguably not a performance mod, but the car performs a lot better when it can actually start. 😉 -Kip