SandalsBoy

This post is certainly looking in the right direction. I think this community should gather all the information regarding what sapol can and can not do and also what is and what is not an illegal modification. If we gather correct information, people who are defected/fined etc when operating within the bounderies of the law can/should be able to put together a court case in front of a judge to have it overturned. Now if you arent happy with what the law does or does not allow, then speaking with SAPOL will do nothing. This is a matter to discuss with your local MP. Police dont make the laws, they just enforce them. MPs make the laws.

I posted in the last group thread about excessive noise generated by the EBC red pads combined with the slotted rotor. I just wanted to report that after approx 500 Kms of street driving with a few spirited drives they are completely silent. Happy with the performance.

I have D2s on my car... actually strikes a good balance in my opinion. They are damper adjustable... not sure if its bound/rebound .... but just thought id add my 2 cents... Ive heard that some teins are ridiculously firm also... so make sure you do your research before you buy.

Rianto, ive had my brakes installed, slotted rotors and red stuff pads... and they squeal rather badly and dust up very very quickly (all after bedding in). After doing a bit of reading i found that there are 2 types of red stuff pads... old and new... the old apparently being plagued with squealing and dust problems... which type did you supply? (I no longer have the packaging to check the type) Because im very disappointed with the pads. Edit: for spelling

Its still all good at the moment. Didnt touch the CAS, but we did put the TPS back to where is was originally. I assme you mention getting the timing checked because you thought we changed the CAS?

Anyone find a solution to this? I get hicas flash on whenever the relay in the boot clicks... also coincides with a weakening of the power steering whenever it flashes.

Same here.... wtf... doesnt even have the connectors/prongs for the fuse... just an empty socket. Anyone get an answer for this? I assume seeing as its reproduced on more than just mine that its not a problem??

nice one good to see people posting up the solutions once found for others to resource later.

Well.... the car is still running fine... just thoguht id comment this in the hope that if someone else has the same problem that disconnecting the ecu and then reconnecting fixes their issue.

Wow. Mad rims... too bad im to poor and my car wouldnt fit them Free bump.

Recieved mine also. Havent actually seen them yet... but they did arrive at the workshop Thanks Rianto

Still waiting for mine... ARE31, which state are you in?

Still waiting for the parts, any idea when they should arrive? A metro SA location.

Another update. The original ECU was sent off to get checked... came back as "its fine. no faults"... Put the original ECU back in... problem has dissappeared. WTF??? Can anyone explain this? the workshop says the didnt change anything else... Is there something that might have "reset" when the ecu came out to have fixed the problem??

OK Update time: Changed over the AFMs with known working ones... didnt fix. Changed ECU... bingo... working. Gonna monitor for a few days and make sure the issue doesnt return... Question is, how does taking the gearbox out kill the ECU? Or was it just a crazy concidence... Work shop reckons it might have happened when the battery was disconnected/reconnected during the gearbox removal. What do you guys think?

+1 !!!!!!! And they manage to speed up just as you are about to get past.

Argh. still cant find any leaks or pinched wires. (nice idea about the in cabin lines but no, dont have any) Its gone back into the workshop. Time to start working through the possibles... AFM? O2 sensor?

Hrmm had a look couldnt find anything. Ill keep looking, anything specific that people can think of that could have been damaged when taking the box out? As always thanks.

Thanks for the reply I suspect it is running rich at idle ... because it wont idle. The car constantly splutters and it will stall pretty much straight away if the throttle isnt depressed. When the throttle is depressed its very rough and blows blackish smoke. Because it wont idle i assume there is no point in resetting the idle, because it wont idle? Oh and didnt pay for it to be fixed. Paid for the gearbox out/in. Any more ideas?

PROBLEM NOT SOLVED!! Ok, so the problem was supposedly fixed. The "tuning" that they were talking about to fix the problem was moving to TPS. Leaning it out a bit. Went to pick up the car from the workshop today. When i got there, they started it up to show me. Was fine no smoke no idle problems. I paid the bill, took the keys, got back into the car, started it up, problem is back. They moved the TPS futher. Idle stabalized. Turned off the car. Started it again still ok. I drove it home all was fine until i turn the car off and out of curiosity tried to start again... Problem is back. Any ideas what could be causing this? It seems like moving the TPS has just compensated for another underlying problem... im thinking.... AFM? O2 Sensor? Any other ideas?

Problem solved: The workshop has spent the day checking and they said that the "tuning" somehow changed. They couldnt explain how this happened by them taking out the gearbox. Im not even sure how they made the "corrections" to the tuning that they claim they made... because i thought it was all controlled by the ecu... but i thought id post my very poor explaination for a fix in case it helps someone else. Perhaps someone better educated on these matters can add to it for the next person.

Problem solved: The workshop has spent the day checking and they said that the "tuning" somehow changed. They couldnt explain how this happened by them taking out the gearbox. Im not even sure how they made the "corrections" to the tuning that they claim they made... because i thought it was all controlled by the ecu... but i thought id post my very poor explaination for a fix in case it helps someone else. Perhaps someone better educated on these matters can add to it for the next person. Thanks again do Doo Doo for posting

Thanks for the reply. Thats a very generous offer much appreicated! Unfortunately im in SA . I havent got the car back yet Ill be going down the work shop tomorrow to talk about what we gonna do. Any other possibilites (besides a vaccum hose?)

Hoping someone can help... I own an 89 GTR. Clutch (OS twin plate) recently died, thrust bearing on the way out and friction plates all but wore out. Took it to the local workshop to have the gear box out. Took me a week to source a new clutch (Xtreme single plate). The workshop installed the new clutch... it works fine. however ever since the workshop put the gearbox+clutch back in, the car now blows black smoke and wont idle without stalling... Had no other work done to the car besides the clutch... and everything was fine before i took it to the workshop... IDEAS? Are there any vaccuum hoses near the gear box that could have been knocked loose? Im at a loss as to what it could be... and so is the workshop. Thanks for your help in advance. EDIT: PS: wasnt sure to post here or the general maint.. sorry for the double up.

Hoping someone can help... I own an 89 GTR. Clutch (OS twin plate) recently died, thrust bearing on the way out and friction plates all but wore out. Took it to the local workshop to have the gear box out. Took me a week to source a new clutch (Xtreme single plate). The workshop installed the new clutch... it works fine. however ever since the workshop put the gearbox+clutch back in, the car now blows black smoke and wont idle without stalling... Had no other work done to the car besides the clutch... and everything was fine before i took it to the workshop... IDEAS? Are there any vaccuum hoses near the gear box that could have been knocked loose? Im at a loss as to what it could be... and so is the workshop. Thanks for your help in advance.