RB240Dav

I have 2 FSM's one for the R32 and one for the R33. I am hoping there are different Service manuals for the car because none of the ones I havehas a wiring diagram that identifies what each connector IS on the harness. Here are some diagrams for my 240sx. These are the kind that I need. Does anyone know where I might be able to get a diagram like this for the R32 RB26dett? s13_el_3.pdf

Coming from somebody who's stuffing one into an S13, save yourself the trouble!! Getting a decent rb26dett (good compression and leakdown #s) took me 5 months with an importer's help, I haven't wired it in yet so I still don't even know how it runs. Ofcourse I live in the U.S. where importing from Japan is much more difficult, you aussie's get first pick DAMN-IT. Here's what I've gotten out of my own prodject. The SR is by far more complementing to the Silvia's weight distribution. Not only does it weight around 180lbs less, but because it's 2 cylinders shorter it's center of gravity is much closer to the center of the car. The SR is a very high strung motor when pushed to the natural hp #'s of the rb26. The fitment issues of the smallest siliva, the S13, are not a problem with motor mounts from mckinney. http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/ These guys know more about swapping any rb into any silvia more than ANYONE. Give them a call, only if you're serious, these guys are Extremely helpful and knowledgeable. If I were to do my project all over again, I would be very tempted to go with the SR, as I DREAD, the day my RB needs internal parts. I don't think I've ever seen parts prices so high !! My car would definately dominate yours on a drag strip, but unfortunately, my love is for circuit racing, for which a properly modified SR would be ideal. Goodluck man, let us know what you figure. My two cents is just an added bit to your search, but if you want to know what's possible and what's not, call those guys at Mckinney!!!!

I feel a little silly for being short money to buy these relatively simple yet important parts. I have changed plans several times. The original plan was to put in an rb25, which I had already purchased. The company that pulled the motor threw in some free extras like, busted connectors and about 3 quarts of water in the motor!!!! I sent it back That's when I decided to just go balls to the wall and just get the 26, It took 4 months and 3 engines to finally get a good motor. Now my timetable is completely shot, especially since I was promised many parts and did not receive them. Of which BOVs and MAFs are on that list. I THANK YOU ALL for your input, I know what my options are now. Thanks for pointing out the resolution issue PNBLIGHT, as I have no intention of going over 500rwhp and will want the fine tuning. I would like to extend my offer one more time. I have two q45 mafs and two pigtails to go with them. I am willing to make a straight trade for two GTR mafs and pigtails. What forum should I make this above posting in? Thank you all again for your help, even if it was to paint over my stripes LOL.

Yeah, it's a "Trust" Strut tower bar for the S-13. It had serious wear marks under the bend, and I was quite concerned about fitmet. Turn out that with the McKinney Mounts the bar clears by a mile (2" at the closest spot to the motor) Off topic question. What kind of fuels are you guys running in australia, and do you guys know what they're running in Japan? I talked to my importer and he said that Japan offers 109 octane at the pump. It must be leaded then right? Does that mean that these motors were developed to run low leaded fuels? I ask because I have access to a small variety of aviation fuels. Like 100 octane fully leaded fuel, or 100 octane low lead fuel. Otherwise, the highest I can buy at the pump is 93. I want to run the aviation fuels because I am unsure of my A/F mixture and don't want any surprise detonation. Besides, with gas prices it's actually cheaper right now than the premium 93!!! Would anyone be interested in trading a pair of GTR afms for a pair of matching Q45 afms. I don't want to resort to that, as they are very expensive over here as well. But if I get in a jam, it could be an offer on the table if anyone's interested.

LOL, it's a little out there I know it. The car's flat black for now, I will paint it High Gloss black next year. As for the wing, it's a little ricey, but what can I say, I dig it. But hey, I'm going to need a little downforce out here on our circuit track. Good thoughts. I'm thinking that since either set of afms are larger than stock ones, I should run rich and low on power. That should leave the motor safe while I work out the remaining bugs and tool around town a bit. There's still so much work left to do, and the race/show season is over anywho. I will probably purchase a PFC in the future (couple years). But for now, has anyone had problems with the HKS computers. It's less flexible, but I should still be able to safely unlock the RB's potential once the car's on the dyno at the HKS dealership. If all else fails I would like to purchase a set of GTR R32 afms, so if you have a set for sale, pm me with a price. I'll let you know how everything works out, if you have anymore thoughts please feel free. THANKS!

I'm sure you get a lot of fakes, talking about doing their imaginary swaps, or driving their imaginary skylines. But this is for real. I would love to get some help from some people who really know what's going on. My importer isn't too keen on helping me through these smaller issues. His solution to problems is to just throw more money at it. Maybe one of you knows enough to help. Thanks again in advance. I hope I uploaded these pics right.

One more, What kind of MAFs does the GTR use? Are they identical or similar to another RB or Nissan. I.E. I know that the Z32 is an upgrade for the RB20 and 25 not because of size but because it's hot wire is calibrated higher allowing it to see more airflow. I almost never see MAFs for the GTR on ebay, however if it can or does use the same MAFS as the RB20, 25 or even the Z32, I could pick those up quickly.

I live in the U.S., I have a heavilly modified S13, I have an RB26DETT mounted in the engine bay with the harness wired in. Intake and Exhaust piping to be run shortly. I have run out of money, and time. I WANT, I WANT, I WANT MY CAR BACK!!! THIS STUPID PRODJECT, ARRGGHH. I haven't driven my car in almost 10 months. And now the winter months are approaching FAST!! Here's what I need help with. . . Please help Please help Please help I did not receive a set of R32 AFMs with my engine set ( I was promised, and did not receive them, LOSERS LOSERS LOSERS!!!) I have a set of 70mm AFMs from a quad cam VG30 Maximas. I also have a set of 80mm AFM's from the Q45 I have an HKS F Con V fuel and timing computer. I do not have the money however to have HKS reprogram it at this time. (that comes later this winter) Can I make either of the AFM's work temporarily with a stock ECU? Is there an AFM off of a USDM motor that would make a better substitute without reprogramming the ECU? P.S. I will be running aviation fuel 100 Octane Low lead (that should help even out the bumps eh?)

Alright, I didn't realize there were so many pages to this thread already. All my questions have been answer. If you guys want to see some pics of the install or completed car let me know. I don't know how you guys with the real thing (skylines) feel about us Mutant Wannabe's Peace,

Are you guys ditching your stock solenloid when going to this controller? I'm starting my RB26 swap into my S13 next week. I don't have the stock solenoids. Is the computer gonna flip out and "rich 'n retard" on me without the stock controllers? And do you think I could just "T" the lines and use just one of these controllers to operate both actuators? Seems like it would be better that way than to try and balance two controllers.

INTRODUCTION Hey guys, I'm new to the world of turbos, but I'm not one to do anything half-assed. So my first engine swap is the RB26DETT into my S13. I hope you guys can accept a Skyline wannabe like me, as this is the only place I wanna be. Yes I know the supposed impossibilies and money factors, however I'm working with my friends who have done some real firsts out there, and we're doing all the work ourselves. Money, that's what a lot of this comes down too. I've got over US$6000 dropped into this little prodject. All well spent dollars mind you, a lot of hybrid swapping and some used parts. Every dollar saved here and there, adds up to one more performance part or overlooked swap item I need. Thanks for reading, I hope to tell you guys more about how I'm doing over here. This is a pretty rare swap, I will probably be the only one for 100s of miles with any RB in their Silvia, let alone the 26 QUESTION: Okay, here's the very, very simple question I have to ask: I am missing the tubing from the actuator on the turbos and obviously whatever controller that was operating them from the firewall. ? How do the actuators work, and what would happen if I didn't hook anything up to them. Can a bleeder valve (spring and ball type) work in this situation. I am obviously going to be getting an EBC in the future; however, if it's something I can do without for a while then that's a few 100 bucks saved in case something breaks during the swap. THANKS