RB240Dav

LOL, if I won the lottery I'd be puttin in a Cosworth F1 motor

Wonder what he used for a power plant, can you purchase the original motor in a crate?

Helium doesn't react with anything really (noble gas), but I can't say I know anything about it's tendencies under compression. LOL besides, that's the wrong kind of lightening

Did your mechanic say he thinks it's the timing belt? Did you try the air intake testing method? If it's not pushing any air out the intake you're probably safe.

I remember reading about two wires you short (if you have the diagnostic connector you can jump the pins) in order to get the ecu to flash the codes to the dash. I can't seem to find the thread now, anybody know if I'm on the right track again? SILLY SILLY QUESTIONS. Thanks again SK

I want to run a code check on my ecu by counting the l.e.d. flashes on the ecu, but I have a Nissan Remanufactured One, and for some reason it doesn't have any lights or dials on the back of it, WTF!! So anyways, I know that you can also count the "check engine light" flashes. I'll splice into the wire coming from the ecu to the light but I don't see a "check engine light" on the instrument cluster I've got (it's not installed) What light flashes?

Well, this is about to become one hell of a learning experience since there is no easy way out. It's time to get down and dirty, and I'll let you chaps know what I find. I'm sure you hear it a lot SK and I hope you never get tired of it. . . THANKS.

I think there's another point to consider here. I have had some experience with aluminum alloy wheels developing corrossion on the rims and allowing air to leak out. If you fill the tyre with a more stable gas like Nitrogen you're not going to get oxide build up on your wheels, hence, you probably won't develope slow leaks on your precious track wheels while they sit around.

I don't know how redily available Z32 parts are over there, but the NA clutch and pressure plate mate right up to the rb25 box. And if you ever manage to blow up the rb25 box (which won't happen), it has the same internals as the TT Z32 box.

I'm using stock r33 rb26 afms on an r32 rb26, I have been told that they are the same. And I am using the standard computer.

Put your hand over the air intake and have a buddy turn the engine over. If you get a push - pull air flow (air sucked in, then pushed back out) then I've got some bad news for you. . . . Timing Belt. My heart sinks for you at just the thought, but it's the easiest thing to check for.

Some random pics so that ya know I'm for real B)

IT RUNS, OMG, DOES IT EVER RUN!!, WILL HAVE IT ON THE ROAD IN A FEW DAYS!!! Hello again gents. I have a mystery of a problem here. Bit of a long explanation but here it goes: I have a 1990 S13 240sx with an R32 RB26DETT in and running. I have the turbos, intercooler, and piping temporarily run with PVC. It's sufficient for plumbing design, fitment, and testing. I have built a downpipe to keep the stock twin turbos which is connected to a full 3" exhaust. I do have several vacuum/pressure lines unhooked, however they are plugged (not well mind you). I have not hooked up a boost regulator or the BOV's yet. Better to get the motor running well first before worrying about getting that worked out. When the AFMS are unplugged the motor starts at the turn of a key and runs rather well in "limp mode." It's rpms settle in around 2200 most of the time, sometimes around 1600. The motor responds to the throttle by idling down further. It is ofcourse running overly rich to the point it stings your eyes a bit (I figure this is normal as the engine will dileberatly run overly rich to prevent internal or turbo damage). At no point can I get the motor to go over 3000rpms, once again this seems normal for not having AFMS plugged in. O.K. now the interesting bit: With the AFMS (stock r33 ones thanks to HUNGRY 6) plugged in the motor will start, but only up to approx. 800rpms before immediately shutting down. The same goes for having in combination either AFM plugged in one at a time. As well as, with the engine running, if I plug in one AFM the motor will sputter for 1/2 a second and then shut down. I am beginning testing of the wiring harness and other sensors however this process is tedious and even the solution can be overlooked. I have tested the fuel pressure and it hits pretty close: Test ....................Standard........Actual Ign. On ..................43psi .......... 40psi Idle .........................36psi .......... 39psi Idle w/o vac line.......43psi .......... 45psi Here are my thoughts: In "limp mode" (am I calling it right?) the ecu gives me a set amount of fuel and timing, without knowing how much air is coming in, it's ignoring most of it's other sensors. When the AFMS are plugged in the ecu then attemps to set the correct air-fuel mixture and appropriate timing. Some other sensor (now that it's out of limp mode and being monitored) could be giving faulty information causing the motor not to run. Or, something else is seriously wrong and ignored in "limp mode," hence when the AFMS are plugged in the ecu responds by killing the motor. i.e. Faulty ECU or Knock sensor. Also, it's probably not something tuning related, i.e. bad O2 senors, boost/vacuum leak, etc... I believe these sort of issues would cause it to run poorly, not necessarily shut down the motor. ------------------------------------------------- There are a world of things to test for, however I'm hoping that someone with a little more experience with the RB series than I (which would be none) could help point me in the right direction as I am pretty well stumped here. Any thoughts no matter how small or seemingly trivial will be helpful. Our collective brain storming might get me going down the right road. THANK YOU, THANK YOU in advance, This is a full 1 year prodject nearing it's completion and I am beside myself trying to get it finished. P.S. located in the middle of the U.S.A. there are virtually no tuners within 5hrs of here that have ever seen an RB motor.

Glad to hear it. . . Earthing (ground) wires are redundant, providing many options for current to flow. Even if you disconnected all of them you would probably still get enough current draw from the main ground cable coming off of the battery to the block. But with age, rust, corrosion, and gaskets, pathways can become restricted, and being a motor highly dependent on electronics, it's important to provide lots of grounds to ensure they all function properly continueously (sp).

Yup, there should be a clip mounted with a bolt somewhere on the chassis that the plug clips onto. Can't see the second one.

wow, RWD, huh. It won't be long now and we'll be the old guys reminising the good old cars

Hello again everyone. I just thought I'd let you know where I'm at. The motor is now wired and running The vg30de afms are not working and I'm in the process of trading for some GTR ones. Thanks again for all your help. I'll come back some time and post time slips when I make it to the track.

I have more pictures if needed, just pm me, Thanks

I have more pictures if needed, just pm me. Thanks

I live in the states and will pay to have MAFS air shipped as I need them as soon as possible. One of the ears on one of the MAFs is broken off but I still have it. I will post pictures later this evening

One ear of the Q45 MAFs is broken off, I still have it. I will post pics of each matching Q45 later this evening. I live in the States, I need these as soon as possible, I am willing to pay the money to have them air mailed.

Yea, we love NICO. I wasn't asking a swap question though. I was just looking for an RB diagram, pretty general RB question really.

GOOD INSIGHT!!! Actually it's for the 180sx. You'll notice that there are connectors similar to the rb coilpacks indicating a CA18 motor. The diagrams are nearly useless to use, but it was a great representation of the type of diagrams we were looking for. We're nearly done however. I LOVE NISSAN!!!! Once you understand what you're looking for it's all so very very simple LOL whew, I'm excited, I might even get this thing started TOMORROW!! Thanks for the thoughts JIM, it's hard to get responses to your questions on this site sometimes.

I'm wiring the rb26 into my S13. We were having a hard time reading the main wiring diagram. Having one that was broken down into systems and locations like the diagrams I have for the S13 would have made understanding the R32 loom much, much easier. We're making progress however and should have this harness disected in a few hours. But if anyone has one, it would still be helpful.

It seems that I don't get any responses without these pics:) LOL seriously though, I really need diagrams to help sort through this mess. We're making progress, but a connector identification diagram would be super great!