Gemini

Thanks for that. Ill have a look at the guide. I have no idea if the belt has been changed but might as well change it to.

Hey guys, I need to change the water pump in my R32 GTS-T but it looks like there is a shit load of stuff I need to take off. Is there a guide I can follow? Ive removed the radiator, fan, and thermostat as im replacing it all with new stuff but the water pump has got me a little stumpped.

Proceed.

Could it be low power steering fluid?

Having a strange issue here, or I simply dont know enough about electronics in a car but my brother recently bought an r32 from here to use as a track car. Its got no indicator stalk and I bought a dpst switch so I can just rig up so I still have indicators. I found the flasher relay, and I traced one of the wires back to a harness under the steering whell wich im guessing is from the original indicator stalk. I then ran a wire from one of the indicators wires that connect to the globes in the engine bay so I can extend my multimeter and started proding around for the correct wire. The problem is, most of the wires I touch are showing a short. I connected it to another wire thinking that I had it connected to ground, but I get the same problem. I then connected the multimeter directly to the indicator globe harness and once again it shows a link but its got some resistence to it. Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong?

"Seeing as i am a Holden fan and i really reall really don't like rice burners...........all i can do right now is laugh and imagine all the people that have the rice burners and think about their expressions when they see this, and wonder how long it will take to take off over here..............." This "rice burner" is probably faster than his bike let alone a poxy Holden

Sorry dont know the answer but that wire isnt important. I think it just dims the headunit when you turn your lights on. Ive never connected that wire up.

Hey guys, I feel like an idiot. Im putting the thermostat housing back on the car but cant figure out with way its meant to go on. Anyone have a pic?

Thats strange. I always jump from the fuse box and it turns over without effort.

I hope I remember to watch this online.

I wish my Z had that sound

Im thinking the same but as trident said only other thing could be water pump but to me it looks like its working fine. Im going to end up buying the ebay one (actually found a 52mm for around the same price) I added some cash into my canvas card and wating for it to clear.

I think the water pump is ok because when I would rev the car with the radiator cap off, the water would get sucked in and then come back up when it idles. I might check out justjap and see how much their alloy rads are. Id rather not waste my time with the old rad because its broken and plus a constant flow of crap comes out.

Hey guys, got my sisters r33 here with a stuffed radiator. Some info on when the problem started. Her car has been sitting in my backyard for the past year and a half because it was un registered and clutch was stuffed. Got new clutch in and got it registered again. The car has always had an odd problem where you had to keep the rad cap slightly opened otherwise the car will overheat and the overflow bottle will start to bubble. The other week, the heater core gave way and hot coolant went everywhere and fogged up all the windows. She brought the car over so I bypassed the core because she doesn't use the heater anyways. I topped up the coolant, bled it, all was good. Then a couple days later, the car overheated and overflow bottle bubbled up again. Took the car to natrad and the guy sold us a new rad cap as the seal on the old one was buggered. He told us to bring it back if it does it again. Car did it again, so I pulled the rad out (funds are a little low so cant afford to get natrad to fix it) and as I was pulling the hose off, the spot where it slips onto snapped off. I stuck a hose in the rad and all this brown shit came out. Ive been flushing it out for the past 3 days and the gunk wont stop. Black chunks are also coming out so I think its safe to assume the radiator was blocked and corroded to death. I removed the thermostat and put it in a jar of boiling water and it opened fully. I tried looking for a thermometer to check if its opening at the correct temp (I think its meant to be 75 degrees?) but cant find a thermometer that goes above 50 I was just going to buy one just incase but they arent very cheap. I also flushed the engine with the hose and luckily it was clean and not a spec of gunk in it. Now some questions. 1. Ebay china intercoolers. I found this one on ebay for $125 + 80 for shipping. Are these rads any good? or should I buy a new original type from somewhere? 2. The thermostat. If its opening fully from water straight from the kettle, is it safe to assume that its working correctly? If I dont have to buy one, it would save me some money to buy new hoses instead. Im guessing they are the original ones as the clamps have dug into them pretty badly and I dont think they will survive another clamping. 3. Whats the chances of the water galleries in the engine been blocked? there was no gunk in it and the flow was nice and steady. I apologize for the wall of text lol. My sister hasn't had the car for so long and she misses it. She has my 300zx to keep her company though lol

I should have said Running shoes or something instead lol but yeah, Commodores are alright. I own a 300zx and a VT Commodore. Sis owns the line. Sometimes I dont want to get out of the VT when its all cold outside and ive got the heater on. Exuast is stock so its silent as anything and its like im driving a cloud. Not sure where I was going with this post lol but I dont think I could ever sell the VT. Same with my Z, I dont think I could ever sell it.