Blue_R32

Hey am looking for a clean r33 in Brisbane for under 15000... PM me if u have a nice one for sale.. open to different colours mods etc.. Just want something that is mechanically strong and in very good nic.

Would just like to stress the intention of this post is not to bag out any particular workshop, and i have not mentioned any names etc, so no need to get upset.. You know who you are.. One would imagine though if they took their car to a good workshop for a apexi power fc install and tune they would either come out with a smile from the new tune (from what I have read eveyone else raves about the powerfc) or an eplanation on why their car now runs like a pile of crap... car is getting checked out soon.

yeah does make sense, maybe we blew the gasket taking it for a drive after we got it back.. would the blown gasket cause shite loads of black smoke on idle though?? boost climbs but just does not snap up of full boost, just climbs slowly.. and nismoid, no have not spoken to the workshop yet as just the car back at 5pm, they closed up etc, so we'll speak to them tomorrow.. in no way am i tryin to blame them, just trying to figure out the chain of events that led to the car now barely running. still the work shop said the actuator was fubared?? how many r33 stock turbos have stuffed atuators? is this common?

umm maps a a biatch to type up.. i kinda have the written down, might take a pic.. i noticed all the airflow settings are 100 percent.. inj maps.. from 1x1 to about 5x5 it os 100.. from six x six up a bit it is at the 119 mark and at 20 x 20 she tops out at 123. hope that kinda makes sense. try and get a pic... only reason i thought no torque graph was suss, is cause the car has definately lost torque. but according tot he dyno sheets it has gained 10 kw top end and lost 3 psi of boost after the tune???

whats the best way to tell if the pfc has been tuned proerally? any easy way to tell. this is the first time i have checked out the hand controller..

and yes on boost wel and truly prior to 3k, just giving a round number.. not after we got it back from the workshop though, now it is not on 7 psi till about 4500rpm..

Paulr33 thats spot on shounds bloody terible, very farty and rattley. exhaust gasket? maybe it blow on the dyno?? would that explain the awefull richness at idle.?

Hey guys, just want to throw some ideas around about the sever issues my friends car is now suffering after having a pcf installed and tuned at a fairly respectible brisbane workshop. upon picking the car up my mate was told that they could not tune it to 11 psi as promised (std 33 turbo) as the actuator was screwed.. Now it was boosting up fine before taking it to the workshop - 8-9 psi arround 3k rpm as expected via a turbotech. he drives it home and says car is running shit and lacking in power. Dyno sheets show 189 rwkw and good air fuel ratio. Now there is no torque graph, which i thought was strange? hiding something maybe. anyhow full boost is not not made till arround 4-4500k rpm.. and it has been tuned to only run about 7 psi tops.. also car has all supporting mods, brand new fuel pump, fmic, pod full 3 inch zost with hiflow cat and now the pfc. so i take it for a drive. strange rattle noise round the exhaust\turbo area.. lacking power for sure, boost does not hit hard. now we get home and let it idle. i can hear a rattley noise from arround the turbo exhaust housing when giving her a little rev. exhaust note sounds shit now aswell and not tough.. not to mention at idle she is blowing loads of black smoke and smeels badly like fuel.. and does not have a nice smooth idle. very up and down and just sounds wrong.. so from the above anyone got any clues as to what might be the problem. I am thinking possible exhaust wheel damage on turbo, hence rattles around the exhuast housing of the turbo.. Now if this is the case, would u not think a professional workshop would have known this and offered some advice more then just "mate your actuator is stuffed so it is not boosting properally" in which casue u would think they would replace it at a fee instead of trying to sell u a 3 grand turbo. any ideas fellas

honestly dude dont quiet have that much $$$ thanks anhow, nice car btw

looking for a stockish r32 gtst 5 speed for arround the 10k mark. anyone selling up???

pm sent man..

dont wanna drive it up north do ya?

car still 4 sale bro.. would be interested in a look on saturday if it is..

clean car dude, if u were in qld i\d buy it from the pics...

Auto dash? is this a manual conversion??

HI, bit of a hijac kinda, i just emailed ur bro about his 32 as i am in brisbane looking for one.

opps pm sent

sell the pipe kit seperately?

cheers mate..

you have pm

dump\front pipe? or just dump? how much?

Hey, I got a 450x300 FMIC brand new i wanna swap for a 34 gtt cooler. I just could not be bother installing and piping it up since i am not trying to make a super fast car. If anyone is interested let me know. Its a chinese copy cooler, but looks pretty neat.. Still in box. Brand new. pics on request. Also after a dump \ front pipe 3" if anyone has one they want to get rid of.. For R33..

Also I have seen a few series 1 bars now with coolers where u can hardley notice it there? unfortunately there always driveng past so i cant have a good look.. It looks descreet and stealth, but how do they fit them that well? is major modification required to the bar/support ir do they just squeeze down that tight as little gap in front of the radiator? Also how much room is required between the cooler and the radiator. Surely a few inches i would thiink. Is haveing the cooler too close going to stop the radiator working efficiently? Over heating issues?

I was going to run it back to the original piping using the 90 degree from the left hand outlet of the cooler (front view) For the ease of creating a easy DIY job.. I dont see any reason it wont be of benefit with the pipe like that.. Anyone got a series 1 r33 front bar with cooler? how much will i have to chop off. any pics top and bottom view of the cooler behind the bar would be sweet for an idea of where to cut..

HI Guys, I just bought a 450x300 cooler. I am putting it on a series1 r33 sieries1 front bar. My plan is to buy 1 x tight 2.5" 90 degree tight bend 1 x x straight pipes running along the rear of the cooler down low 2x 90 degrees bends to get to the stock inlet 2 x 90 degree bends to connect up the right hand outlet *looking from front on* to the stock piping.. If you can picture this do you think it will be ok? I am going to mount the cooler the usual fashion and being a 450 core width i imagine it should fit behind the series 1 front bar easier then a larger cooler. Obviously I am going to have to remove a bit of the inner front bar.. Anyone mounted one on a 33 series one with the series 1 front bar? Is there many big issues I may encounter? Any advise would be great. and ill take picks for those interested. Will probablly install in 2 weeks time as I have to awit the arival of the cooler.