Turbine
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Posts posted by Turbine
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Hello guys, I am clearing out my garage and have 4 RB20 engines to move as well as lots of accessories to fit to them.
The engines are at various teardown stages :
1 is complete minus the accessories, has adjustable cam gears and GTR cams (RB20DET)
1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed (RB20DET)
1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed, crank out (RB20DET)
1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed (RB20DET out of a R32 GTS4)
1 RB30 short engine minus accessories.
1 Hybrid turbocharger. Basically a highflowed BA Falcon compressor arrangement on a WRX highflowed exhaust housing. Brand new, built by Kyp at ATP in Melbourne
Anyone interested can email me for more details and pics at
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Hello guys, I am clearing out my garage and have 4 RB20 engines to move as well as lots of accessories to fit to them.
The engines are at various teardown stages :
1 is complete minus the accessories, has adjustable cam gears and GTR cams (RB20DET)
1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed (RB20DET)
1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed, crank out (RB20DET)
1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed (RB20DET out of a R32 GTS4)
1 RB30 short engine minus accessories.
1 Hybrid turbocharger. Basically a highflowed BA Falcon compressor arrangement on a WRX highflowed exhaust housing. Brand new, built by Kyp at ATP in Melbourne
Anyone interested can email me for more details and pics at
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Hey Ryan,
I am interested in how your going with that engine, I have a similar setup for our dragster. Have you sorted out the fuel?
Cheers,
Glenn
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Maybe it's correct temp after all. 55*C for the temp into the throttle body seems pretty normal for around 13Lb boost with say a R32GTR intercooler.
??
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No worries guys.
The STALL speed is supposed to be 300RPM. On the dyno it seems to lock at around 4500RPM (boost sets in at around 3000RPM as well).
When you say % of slip, that is not a good thing (it's ment to stall not slip). Depending on how efficient the converter is it may SLIP between 3 - 8% engine speed vs drive speed. But it should lock once over the stall speed.
So what do you think?
Glenn
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Anybody got any ideas as to how much Horsepower is absorbed by the torque converter and trans on these cars.
My guess is around 60HP at full noise.
cheers
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Hi stealth,
Was this a 4WD Dyno or a 2WD Dyno.?
We have the challenge of running a GTS4 AWD RB20DET car on a Dyno shortly this week, but I'd like to know of some differences between the two as well as the selected gear for the run. Car is an automatic.
Seems a grey area to me about the whole procedure.
Cheers
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Like Roy said, their is not too many people that have cracked over 300rwkw for an RB20DET.
Like I said earlier, the bottom ends should handle more horsepower than you could get the RB20 to breath in air!
I'll find out before too long once my drag racer is running, cause I'm only going to use stock conrods and crankshafts in it.
cheers
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Yeh alot of people have said that they will handle 400 to 450HP, I don't know how much true experiences are out their. I'd like to know if the Bathurst units ran STOCK rods, if so thats a 475HP engine.
To me, if they are prepared well they should be able to handle 90HP each, just not sure how long for
. They are a great shaped conrod, a better shape than larger capacity RB sixes.Same with the crankshaft. It will handle more horsepower than you could breathe through an RB20. I think even the main journal sizes are all the same for RB20,25,26,30. Tough stuff.
Cheers
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If the knock goes away under slight load and returns when you back the throttle off it will be big ends.
Just finished a rebuild on RB20DET that had the oil pump screws work loose dropping oil pressure, destroying big end bearings.
I'd be interested how much that repair is by a shop.
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In our RB20DET GTS4, TurboX(Greg) spent hours removing any sharp machining edges and blending the chambers smooth by hand.
The compression ratio drop is very small. We have had the boost set at 15psig so far with no dramas.
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The DE engine has smaller combustion chambers and dished pistons. The DET engine has larger chambers and raised pistons.
I hope my memory is correct here.
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You're kind of right with the drag race engine, but this subject on the No. 6 lean out interested me enough to setup the engine/trans in our race car to be capable of running longer before a run than usual.
1 reason so as not to get burnt down on the start line and second reason was to keep all the temperatures up and stable for the run down the strip.
Back to that water setup, I cant post the photo from our web site so I'll explain it a little.
TurboX has used a Diesel fuel filter housing turned upside down with the drain vent to the top placed near the brake booster (filter removed). All the small water hoses for the intake manifold stay in the stock position but are 'T'd off to the housing where the steam is released.
You can check it out at Turboclub.com just look up for the Skyline GTS4 RB20DET mods.
It's a great idea of His, but such a pain in the neck to fit hoses to with that modified intake plenum.
Cheers.
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I have got a pic of the setup on our engine that I'll post shortly.
I guess its all about balance and with the goal in mind being the ideal charge air temp ACROSS all cylinders.
If you have No.1 cylinder head temp is running cooler than No.6 cylinder head temp, it must have an effect on the density/velocity of the air that travells across the chamber.
It's my way of thinking that you should have your charge air temp TO the cylinders at the same temp as the water that exits the cylinder head, about 60 - 80*C. May sound strange to some but the air changes its speed with temperature changes. Also at this temp the air is still reasonably dense, if you go below 60 it moves too slow, if you go above it looses density.
In a low HP engine it's not a real problem but for an engine developing 300 od HP per litre, if its not right you loose an engine.
Doing this also reduces the stress of developing horsepower, the engine is more relaxed or more dynamically balanced.
Anyway enough crap from me.
Later.
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This thread has definately brought out some good reading.
Back to the Lean Out issue.
Because No. 6 cylinder is so far from the cooling system pump, We have fitted some extra plumbing into the cooling system to remove the steam out of the engine. Has enybody done the same to thier RB engine?
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Its a different story if you want 300+rwkw out of the RB20
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Shaun check out this picture.
Look at the bottom half (or the exhaust side) of the bore openings.
You can see that the gasket has not sealed as well as the intake side. kind of the same problem you have with the No.6 water jaket leaking into the bore.
Does this help?
Turbine
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Well I took everybodys advice.....and decided to leave the sump/diff in the car.
Cleaned all the metal out of the sump (rod bearing material) ready for the refreshed engine.
Lowered the engine assy in on top of the sump, all done. Was easier to fit than remove.
Cheers.
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On my cars first dyno tune they just blew a Tomie head gasket on number 6.
Can anyone see a problem with this?
Shaun, in your pictures this looks to me like an assembly problem to me, not a lean out of fuel/air mixture in the cylinder No.6
Correct me if I'm wrong here,but it looks to me like the corrosion has come from the water jaket to the cylinder and blown through their.
If the cylinder head is not clamped down tight enough, water gets underneath it and heads towords the cylinder. Check to see if your aftermarket exhaust manifold does not crash into the block on the water jaket channel directly under the header flange. If it's the same as for RB20 (real close less than 0.010" in some spots) then grind some material off.
What do you think?
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I have engine EGT thermocouples fitted to our race RB20's ehaust manifold, but the engine is yet to run (october this year). Does anybody have a similar setup on a running engine?
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I like this subject because it has alot to do with aerodynamics.
The trick is to trim the engines breathing through all cylinders to be equal. Manifolding the engine correctly (physically), not by fitting the highest flowing injector, or increasing the injector end time in your ECU to be longer than the other cylinders. Do all that when you have a resonably ballanced air path first.
I've seen 2.0L Toyota six cylinder engines develope 700HP with very little work done to their intake manifold, running 65mm pipes to and from the intercooler.
I've read that the nissan RB20/25 DET intake is good for 300rwkw without many mods. Beyond that figure it must be unbalanced.
As for detonation/breakages in No.6 cylinder, well the air side of things is just the start of its problems.
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Thanks for pic DiRTgarage, it's a nice way to do that mod with the fitting removeable.
Turbine.
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I'm not so sure about that.
If you are developing over 300rwkw then the standard top half to the intake manifold needs reworking. Below 300 rwkw leave it alone.
Check out our web site for the intake manifold mod we did on our GTS4 RB20DET R32 Skyline.
Turbine
Rb20 Engines And Parts
in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Posted
As requested.
Hello guys, I am clearing out my garage and have 4 RB20 engines to move as well as lots of accessories to fit to them.
Starters, Alternators, Manifolds, Steering Pumps, Water Pumps etc.
The engines are at various teardown stages :
1 is complete minus the accessories, has adjustable cam gears and GTR cams (RB20DET) $500.00
1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed (RB20DET) $150.00
1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed, crank out (RB20DET) $100.00
1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed (RB20DET out of a R32 GTS4) $350.00
1 RB30 N/A short engine minus accessories. $100.00
1 Hybrid turbocharger. Basically a highflowed BA Falcon compressor arrangement on a WRX highflowed exhaust housing. Brand new, built by Kyp at ATP in Melbourne, good for 500-600HP suite RB20, 25 $600.00
Also 1 Jatco 3spd Auto suite RB20,25,30, Drag race built with full standard patern manual shift valve body, trans Braked, solid 10mm sump, too much to mention, very trick, cost built buy Street&Strip Automatics in Melb comes with Dominator 5000RPM stall speed converter, cost $4800.00 all new ---- sell for $2500.00
Anyone interested can email me for more details and pics at
[email protected]
Located in Melbourne.
If no iterest here, they will hit ebay before too long.
I will have pictures on request....cheers.