Turbine
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Posts posted by Turbine
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Me ...Solid Lifters? :lol:
Last time i took a rocker cover off an engine i killed it..so i leave mine as Mr Nissan sees fit these days
I have only ever had an RB20 head apart, so dont know how it all compares to RB26 gear. I know in the RB25 you need to chavge valves etc because the valve stems are different lengths. Probablt the same deal with the RB20.
Sounds like thats the thing to do. Change valve lengths.
Cheers Roy
Glenn.
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Roy do you run solid lifters in your RB20?
Read my previous reply to this thread and see what you think with what I'm up to on mine.
Cheers
Turbine
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carl h
have you ever placed rb26dett cams into the rb20det with solid lifters??
I'm attempting this on mine. Something not quite sure on the fitment.
I have a post up for this on the forum if you have som clues
Turbine
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Hi guys,
I'm at the moment attempting to install a set of RB26DETT camshafts into my RB20DET.
Everything is fine with the cams themselves fitting into the head, cam brackets fit nice and torque up well with no binding. The problem starts with the lifters.
Now I know I can run with the hydraulic lifters. We tried this on our R32GTS4, the engine ran quite well above 2200RPM. It had idle issues but we kind of knew that would happen. We removed them and put the standard cams back in so we could drive the car to the last Skylines show in town.
I thought with the hydraulic lifters in our race car it was a bit of a no no, mainly for the high RPM operation. So i got hold of a set of solid lifters (RB26DETT). For some reason, even if i installed them into the head above the valve springs, it looks like they will not make up the distance to the base circle of the cam lobes.
Will this be fixed with the shims between the valve and lifter??
Seems like alot of room to make up their, maybe up to 1inch
Maybe someone can shed some light on this subject for me.
Cheers
Turbine
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Hi guys,
I'm at the moment attempting to instal a set of RB26DETT camshafts into my RB20DET.
Everything is fine with the cams themselves fitting into the head, cam brackets fit nice and torque up well with no binding. The problem starts with the lifters.
Now I know I can run with the hydraulic lifters. We tried this on our R32GTS4, the engine ran quite well above 2200RPM. It had idle issues but we kind of knew that would happen. We removed them and put the standard cams back in so we could drive the car to the last Skylines show in town.
I thought with the hydraulic lifters in our race car it was a bit of a no no, mainly for the high RPM operation. So i got hold of a set of solid lifters (RB26DETT). For some reason, even if i installed them into the head above the valve springs, it looks like they will not make up the distance to the base circle of the cam lobes.
Will this be fixed with the shims between the valve and lifter??
Seems like alot of room to make up their, maybe up to 1inch
Maybe someone can shed some light on this subject for me.
Cheers
Turbine
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How good is that, thanks guys.
Now it's head down bum up for alot of measurements.
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Ok, at the moment I have no shims for my engine. I need 24 obviously. My question is to those guys who have setup the inlet and exhaust valve shims before. Do the clearances vary a great deal or are the all the same in dimensions.
I doubt that they will all be the same on an engine with 70000+ K's on it.
Thanks
Turbine
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I guess all these power gaining mods tend to loose all of the available low end torque our RB20's have hey.
It might be nice to try the cylinder head off of your GTS4 TurboX, but I like the smaller chamber of the DE engine.
Hey Boostn32, is your ride a street RB20 or race only?
Turbine
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I have an off topic question for Sydney Kid.
Have a look at the airflow meter and box setup on Turbox's post. What effect would that have on ignition timing with the 550cc injectors, through the standard ecu?
Remember I PMed you about a possible pinging issue with the engine. Could this mod tell the ecu that the actual metered airflow has dropped off considerably, but having the large injectors, the air/fuel ratios are able to be still correct with the ignition timing over advancing causing that pinging sound? Something like unpredictable airflow rates not relative to RPM/LOAD. Does that make any sense?
Turbine B)
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The standard bottom end is good enough as long as it's healthy.
Read some of the RB20 posts. These engines take a nice beating with little problems if it's thrashed the right way. As far as your gearbox, it may need some work.
Cheers
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Thanks for the replies guys, got a set on the way.
Cheers
Turbine
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Do you guys realize how easy it is to actually tune an Autronic system? Adam (WetGTR) showed me himself how easy it was to tune. Do you people realize how well this system will work for even a street car?
I'm just interested manage13. How many hours on the dyno did it take to get this guys GTR (WETGTR) up and running to where it is now?? He does run an Autronic right?
Turbine
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Looking for a used set of RB26DETT solid valve lifters.
I'm in Melbourne so would rather pickup locally, but would buy from interstate for the right price.
Cheers,
Turbine
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Do you have the standard solid lifters for the gtr??
Turbine.
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Do you have a set of RB26 Camshaft solid lifters???
Turbine
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Real nice Stagea their buddy.
Could I ask what year/Model that one is?
Cheers,
Turbine
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You could try this setup for an external wastegate.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...00/ppuser/19114
If you are in Melbourne, I can put you on to the guys that welded this up for me.
Cheers,
Turbine
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If you have to stick to an Autronic ECU. Stick your head in the manual and study the hell out of it, learn to tune it yourself.
If you are going to go to the trouble of buying and setting up one of these ECU's, make the most out of it by knowing how it works to get the best benifit.
Most tuners that i've researched don't or are unwilling to cram every ounce of horsepower out of your engine for safetys sake. Especially if it's a street car.
I intend to tune my engine myself, just rent out the dyno and crank it up using all of the Autronic options. I'm not too concerned about cracking an engine to learn what they will handle.
If you can get 420rwkw with Pfc, thats heaps for the steet if you ask me. For a dedicated race care (drag race), i think the Autronic is ideal.
Cheers
Turbine
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That looks pretty bad!@#&
Overtorqued rod bolt/s, undertorqued rod bolt/s???????
crunch.
If you ever find out what caused that to happen, post it on the reopt that engine fail thread.
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I doubt that the engine has blown up because of the horsepower output, maybe it was to do with the amount of heat around the intakes.
I have read that in Japan the rb20 has acheived over 600ps.
400rwhp is great, just what I'm after to run into the mid 10's
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Could well have been my one?
Or the one from Rons old car which went to SYD
Could well have been, from memory it was back in the early 90's, a red GTSR.
Funny how I still remember that manifold, I think we wanted to fit one similar to the Starion we have.
Turbine
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holy crap, no way that would fit in a lhd s chassis!
looks like its a pretty advanced manifold especialy for the time.....
wonder what a new technology turbo would do on a rb20 equiped with that manifold.
Yeh it would fit just fine. Remember our car has no inner gaurds. I could afford to have the header pipes longer than that still.
Turbine
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Thanks for the feedback on this guys, no doubt I'll be able to source out a manifold from all your replies.
I've only ever seen the GTSR exhaust manifold once in my life at a car show in Melbourne and I had my eyes glued to it for about 30 minutes checking it out. Real nice.
Still, I'm looking for the the one that follows the exhaust port angle with no bends for at least 2" out of the head.
I'll gather up some pics of the setup once I get one bought or made up.
Talk later guys
Turbine.
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Hey Ppls
My stainless exhaust manifold has developed a 1.5 - 2cm crack were the runners join at the turbo flange, so I am weighing up my options and was thinking of buying a HKS cast iron manifold to replace it with.
My problem being is that my turbo (T3/04B) has an internal gate so I was thinking of using a steel plate and some exhaust sealer to block off the external wastgate outlet on the manifold.
Do you think this will work and would it have and adverse effect on the flow of the manifold?
Thanks
Fiddy
Got any more pictures of the cast manifold at different angles???
Turbine
RB26 camshafts in RB20??
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Yes Turbox, the cams are in the race car now.
They are standard RB26DETT camshafts both set to zero on the adjustable drive gears.
I fitted the standard RB20DE hydraulic lifters and the standard RB20DE camshaft brackets.
At first I had the cams fitted with no lifters, to get a feel for how they rotated in the head. NO problems at all, smooth and free. So out they came, fitted the lifters back in and refit the cams.
I did apply high temp anti-seize to all of the bolts that mount the cams in. I found that theri was moisture getting into the bolt shanks somehow :confused:
It's interesting that SK mentions about cam timing on the RB's with these cams as a nominal +2IN, -4EX starting point.
This would explain the idle problems when both are set to zero. Moving the cams like the above mentioned actually reduces the valve overlap by 6 degrees total.
RB20's dont have alot of airflow below 2500RPM compared to the big RB26, so....... the horsepower gain could only be through the higher lift.
I'm going to try them at zero first up because i dont care if it idles at 2000RPM, the converter stalls at 5000RPM anyway. I'll let people know how this works out in time.
Turbine.