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Turbine

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About Turbine

  • Birthday 18/09/1969

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  • Website URL
    http://www.turboclub.com/Australia/Members/AU0000005/

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  • Location
    Melb

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  • Car(s)
    RB20DE+T DragRace Ute

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  1. As requested. Hello guys, I am clearing out my garage and have 4 RB20 engines to move as well as lots of accessories to fit to them. Starters, Alternators, Manifolds, Steering Pumps, Water Pumps etc. The engines are at various teardown stages : 1 is complete minus the accessories, has adjustable cam gears and GTR cams (RB20DET) $500.00 1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed (RB20DET) $150.00 1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed, crank out (RB20DET) $100.00 1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed (RB20DET out of a R32 GTS4) $350.00 1 RB30 N/A short engine minus accessories. $100.00 1 Hybrid turbocharger. Basically a highflowed BA Falcon compressor arrangement on a WRX highflowed exhaust housing. Brand new, built by Kyp at ATP in Melbourne, good for 500-600HP suite RB20, 25 $600.00 Also 1 Jatco 3spd Auto suite RB20,25,30, Drag race built with full standard patern manual shift valve body, trans Braked, solid 10mm sump, too much to mention, very trick, cost built buy Street&Strip Automatics in Melb comes with Dominator 5000RPM stall speed converter, cost $4800.00 all new ---- sell for $2500.00 Anyone interested can email me for more details and pics at [email protected] Located in Melbourne. If no iterest here, they will hit ebay before too long. I will have pictures on request....cheers.
  2. Hello guys, I am clearing out my garage and have 4 RB20 engines to move as well as lots of accessories to fit to them. The engines are at various teardown stages : 1 is complete minus the accessories, has adjustable cam gears and GTR cams (RB20DET) 1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed (RB20DET) 1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed, crank out (RB20DET) 1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed (RB20DET out of a R32 GTS4) 1 RB30 short engine minus accessories. 1 Hybrid turbocharger. Basically a highflowed BA Falcon compressor arrangement on a WRX highflowed exhaust housing. Brand new, built by Kyp at ATP in Melbourne Anyone interested can email me for more details and pics at [email protected]
  3. Hello guys, I am clearing out my garage and have 4 RB20 engines to move as well as lots of accessories to fit to them. The engines are at various teardown stages : 1 is complete minus the accessories, has adjustable cam gears and GTR cams (RB20DET) 1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed (RB20DET) 1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed, crank out (RB20DET) 1 is complete minus the accessories and has the cylinder head removed (RB20DET out of a R32 GTS4) 1 RB30 short engine minus accessories. 1 Hybrid turbocharger. Basically a highflowed BA Falcon compressor arrangement on a WRX highflowed exhaust housing. Brand new, built by Kyp at ATP in Melbourne Anyone interested can email me for more details and pics at [email protected]
  4. Hey Ryan, I am interested in how your going with that engine, I have a similar setup for our dragster. Have you sorted out the fuel? Cheers, Glenn
  5. Maybe it's correct temp after all. 55*C for the temp into the throttle body seems pretty normal for around 13Lb boost with say a R32GTR intercooler. ??
  6. No worries guys. The STALL speed is supposed to be 300RPM. On the dyno it seems to lock at around 4500RPM (boost sets in at around 3000RPM as well). When you say % of slip, that is not a good thing (it's ment to stall not slip). Depending on how efficient the converter is it may SLIP between 3 - 8% engine speed vs drive speed. But it should lock once over the stall speed. So what do you think? Glenn
  7. Anybody got any ideas as to how much Horsepower is absorbed by the torque converter and trans on these cars. My guess is around 60HP at full noise. cheers
  8. Hi stealth, Was this a 4WD Dyno or a 2WD Dyno.? We have the challenge of running a GTS4 AWD RB20DET car on a Dyno shortly this week, but I'd like to know of some differences between the two as well as the selected gear for the run. Car is an automatic. Seems a grey area to me about the whole procedure. Cheers
  9. Like Roy said, their is not too many people that have cracked over 300rwkw for an RB20DET. Like I said earlier, the bottom ends should handle more horsepower than you could get the RB20 to breath in air! I'll find out before too long once my drag racer is running, cause I'm only going to use stock conrods and crankshafts in it. cheers
  10. Yeh alot of people have said that they will handle 400 to 450HP, I don't know how much true experiences are out their. I'd like to know if the Bathurst units ran STOCK rods, if so thats a 475HP engine. To me, if they are prepared well they should be able to handle 90HP each, just not sure how long for . They are a great shaped conrod, a better shape than larger capacity RB sixes. Same with the crankshaft. It will handle more horsepower than you could breathe through an RB20. I think even the main journal sizes are all the same for RB20,25,26,30. Tough stuff. Cheers
  11. If the knock goes away under slight load and returns when you back the throttle off it will be big ends. Just finished a rebuild on RB20DET that had the oil pump screws work loose dropping oil pressure, destroying big end bearings. I'd be interested how much that repair is by a shop.
  12. In our RB20DET GTS4, TurboX(Greg) spent hours removing any sharp machining edges and blending the chambers smooth by hand. The compression ratio drop is very small. We have had the boost set at 15psig so far with no dramas.
  13. The DE engine has smaller combustion chambers and dished pistons. The DET engine has larger chambers and raised pistons. I hope my memory is correct here.
  14. You're kind of right with the drag race engine, but this subject on the No. 6 lean out interested me enough to setup the engine/trans in our race car to be capable of running longer before a run than usual. 1 reason so as not to get burnt down on the start line and second reason was to keep all the temperatures up and stable for the run down the strip. Back to that water setup, I cant post the photo from our web site so I'll explain it a little. TurboX has used a Diesel fuel filter housing turned upside down with the drain vent to the top placed near the brake booster (filter removed). All the small water hoses for the intake manifold stay in the stock position but are 'T'd off to the housing where the steam is released. You can check it out at Turboclub.com just look up for the Skyline GTS4 RB20DET mods. It's a great idea of His, but such a pain in the neck to fit hoses to with that modified intake plenum. Cheers.
  15. I have got a pic of the setup on our engine that I'll post shortly. I guess its all about balance and with the goal in mind being the ideal charge air temp ACROSS all cylinders. If you have No.1 cylinder head temp is running cooler than No.6 cylinder head temp, it must have an effect on the density/velocity of the air that travells across the chamber. It's my way of thinking that you should have your charge air temp TO the cylinders at the same temp as the water that exits the cylinder head, about 60 - 80*C. May sound strange to some but the air changes its speed with temperature changes. Also at this temp the air is still reasonably dense, if you go below 60 it moves too slow, if you go above it looses density. In a low HP engine it's not a real problem but for an engine developing 300 od HP per litre, if its not right you loose an engine. Doing this also reduces the stress of developing horsepower, the engine is more relaxed or more dynamically balanced. Anyway enough crap from me. Later.
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