psybic

True, I should have said if it needs it. If you are chasing more power and it is the original unit, I can't see how it won't need some sort of help now. My point is just really that they are old. I'd start looking through the threads of things that have gone wrong to other peoples cars and make sure it doesn't happen to me first. I should have done that myself...

If you don't have 10k and don't want to rebuild, I'd be changing the turbo's now before they let go and destroy things. I'd also be thinking about upgrading the radiator and having the cooling system flushed. You have a very old car there which would have seen a little more spirited driving than other cars the same age. - Rebuilt or upgraded turbos - cooling - replace all really old bits that look like they need replacing. hoses, cv boost, etc. that should give you some clever things to spend you money on for a while.

x2 rings. Bet it gets worse after a little spirited drive.

An SAFC allows for LESS fine tuning. A well tuned ECU will be more accurately tuned than a well tuned SAFC.

Well I'm going to speculate that it is Pauls engine and in doing so, I'm going to also speculate it will see significantly more than 25psi in the future...

BUMP

Black Series 2 R33 GTST. Year: 1996 REGO: AUG 2007 KMS: 96,000 PRICE: $14,500ono pod filter Kakimoto 3" Cat Back. Dual Stage Boost controller not hooked up. Tinted windows Air con, windows, mirrors, etc, all works fine. New tyres on the front. SAFC ( not tuned yet ) Now with SAFC Mostly looking at trade with more modified car of interest.

You should use a wideband sensor when tuning your car anytime. I was told the knock sensors in power fc's or safc2's aren't that flash and an experienced tuner shouldn't need them. Microtech does take TPS input so low throttle or hi throttle or whatever is just the same as powerFC. Microtech see's vacuum as well as boost, so there are no problems when you are seeing less than 0, if thats what you are asking. No it doesn't self tune, unless there has been an advancement I am unaware of. At the same time, autronic self tune is not recommended as the only tuning, so self tunes seem to just keep things in check after a proper tune. I think all the little things, like 'self tune' and 'knock sensors' etc, are kinda little gimmicks which aren't important if you are after a decent tune to help your engine run as well as possible. All ECU's can be tuned to give better or worse economy. I think you are seeing the computers as more different than they are. The main difference is one takes Air Flow input from your AFM's, the other takes MAP input. Because all stand alone ecu's do pretty much the same thing, you'll find the best advice is as earlier stated... go with what your tuner wants to tune, because its the man ( or woman ) not the machine that will make a good tune!

Invest...

OK, but what I'm really wondering about is... why does a few pops and a bit of missing from 4500-5500rpm suddenly make the turbo sound different and not want to build boost as fast??? then after a while, its very audible again and building boost quickly?

Yeah they are and I bet the car was going well straight after that was done. My money is on something has changed and its effecting them now.

Is that a dyno sheet for ants? Everyone is thinking turbo lag... I don't know if he is describing that. Jolts and feels like it starved... then jumps forward, sounds like something being too rich... I still reckon check out the AFR's and see if its gone a bit silly due to a small problem somewhere along the line.

OK, well I'll assume it is heat then and a front mount and reduction of inlet temps will help spooling of the turbo. Hopefully the SAFC helps it out a bit...

You are talking about turbo lag yes I noticed. Its not "stopping the flow of air" is what I was saying. If you think about it, with a less effective bov or no bov, the engine see's boost for longer, the only thing that is aided, is the speed of the impellor. I'd be checking the AFR. You say yourself it feels like a afr issue. Thats the only way to be sure I reckon.

I have a little miss if I put the foot down hard and it comes onto boost. Ofcourse, this could be coil packs on the way out, maybe the ignitors aren't strong enough, maybe its just rich and retard. I'll work towards that one in the future. One thing I have noticed, which I find interesting, after I have this little miss at say 5,000rpm, the car sounds different aftwards. Not missing, just a little more fueled up. Few more pops for a while. Also, I have blocked off the BOV outlet and run a POD. I can really here it whistle when its cold and just started up. After a little miss, its hard to hear at all. At first I thought i'd blown the turbo. Do you think when it misses, it increases exhaust temp and this is transfered through to heat right through the engine bay? Do you think this extra heat is causing the huge difference in the way the turbo spools ( at least to the ear ) and changes how much fuel is being dumped in to combat that heat? I ran standard boost and the car is standard.

A BOV doesn't effect the speed of the air on the way to the engine. All it does is release pressure so that the blades of the turbo can keep spinning. If you had a hose spraying water into your garden and you quickly stuck a hole in the side of it, you aren't increasing the speed of the water out the nossle. How long since your re-map. Might wanna check out some tuning issues first.

Still keen to hear from ya mate... I am keen on the car, can sell mine cheap, have a buyer, need to know whats going on... can you respond to my pm? cheers

I'll take it not keen for trades at all... due to lack of PM.

Respond to my PM. Don't seperate anything just yet dude!

Mate that is a freakin sweet deal! Why are you doing this too me? I want to not spend money on cars!! I want it... lots. I have a black 96 series 2 GTSt, stock, about to install an SAFC... I'm sending you a pm.... Damn it man, why do you tease people with this shit?? GT3040 with forged internals and a microtech??? Gotta be a catch...

I read the thread that was linked above... I think it was just a bitch fight wasn't it??? Is there actually someone who has a time slip for a 12 who can post their mods as being as close to stock as possible? It was painful reading through those 13 pages of insults. ** I'm talking about the 12second dailey driver thread ** incase I missed one that is actually clear and to the point...

Thanks mate. I'm currently after a second hand one, so I guess I'll just assume that if someone else was running it in a street car and have no idea what I'm talking about when I ask how they controlled their a/c and shit... they probably had it all taken care of by the tuner and its already been sorted. Just not keen to grab a plug and play, then suddenly get stalling problems when I use the A/C. Almost seems like cheating just plugging it in, lol, I'm excited.

Its two wires.... which you just swap over... I think thats easier than sending back to microtech... anyway, can you tell us more about the microtech's ability to take care of things like AC and HICAS when the stock ECU is removed completely? Or doesn't the stock ECU effect these things??

I'll third that. I'm a great believer in asking for many opinions... but you won't be getting many tuners, so find your tuner first! You're prices are a bit out. Currently I know of two LT12S's for sale under $1200 plug and play. My tuner charges $300 for full tune. Also, from experience in two different cars I've owned with microtech's... they were excellent on and off boost as every day drivers and people would always comment how smooth the engine felt as a passenger. Those with bad microtech results have bad tuners. If my tuner prefered PowerFC, I would have got one of those instead. Although I do like no AFM... don't know why...

Yeah you'll need to swap the wires. Injectors #4 and #6 are switched between RB20 and RB25. Is it the guy who wouldn't do COD to me? Its worth $1250 for the unit, about $250 for the plug. Thats a little cheaper than retail, but thats what you can get stuff for if you shop around. So second hand, $1100 is a good price... just not good enough that I'll deposit it into a randoms account before I see some goods, lol. One issue I'm worried about with the plug in option, is loss of HICAS and A/C control etc. If you wire it in yourself using the loom, you can let the microtech control injectors and ignition, with inputs from TPS, CAS, water temp and MAP, then let the stock do the rest. If you remove the stock ECU completely... your microtech will have to take care of the other stuff. Hit your tuner up about that one.